Nittry Gritty, I ran into a tip from a Deisel mechanic while overhauling a 1963 164. I tied to save some money and tested the termostat rather than replaceing the thermostat. After 2 headgaskets and 2 trips to the machine shop to resurface the head, I finaly stopped the headgasket from blowing with this tip. The car ran fine for 3 months until the thermostat finaly stuck in the closed position. I burned all the spark plugs,gaskets and two injectors. But the headgasket did not blow. I had the parts replaced and it ran great until my daughter totaled it. Saved her life! She was forced off the road at 60 mph and hit a tree. Volvos are little Swedish tanks thinly desgiused as pasenger cars. Here is the proccedure:
1) clean the tapped holes that the head bolts thread into in the block and chase the holes with a tap.
2) Apply a heat resistant grease (something with graphite in it) to the head bolts and install normally.
3)Start your engine and allow it to heat up to a normal tempature. then remove the valve cover and retorque the head bolts one at a time in the correct sequence as follows: back the bolt off one quarter of a turn and bring it back to the correct torque.
I hope this helps, good luck Tee.
P.S. always replace the thermostat.
1992/740/220K/HeadGasketRepair-SomeNittyGritty
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rob2volvos
- Posts: 20
- Joined: 26 January 2010
- Year and Model: 1992 740 / 1994 940
- Location: Charlottesville, VA
So to continue with the head-gasket-repair saga: I got the cylinder head "skimmed" for $44. I ordered a head gasket set for the 740 from IPD (good deal a4 $50 or so). And I also ordered a set of new cylinder head bolts from IPD for $33. The old bolts looked fine but several posts suggested not taking any chances by reusing them.
While the head was off I replaced the RPM sensor which bolts into the bell housing by the firewall -- which should have been a simple job but was complicated because the bolt sheared off. I managed to drill into it with a very fine drill bit and easy-outed it.
I cleaned up all sides of the cylinder head carefully with brake cleaner. I inserted new spark plugs ($12 from IPD) and got used to using neighbor Peter's very nice torque wrench (set/click type, $80 from Sears/Craftsman) in the process. I made sure I did not lose track of which contact on the distributor goes to which cylinder by labeling everything with duct tape and marker as I took it apart. I also installed a new distributor cap, and rotor ($60 from IPD). The old one looked very worn inside.
I also cleaned up the exposed block, piston crowns and cylinder walls gently using brake cleaner and scotchbrite pads. I had some compressed air and a shop vac handy to keep everything clean as I went along. I was advised by the man at the workshop to use shaving cream to block the exposed channels and prevent debris from falling inside. It was still difficult to keep everything clean.
I put the new gasket on the cleaned block and a new water pump ring gasket. I didn't replace the water pump but I think I really should have done.
Then I requested Peter's help getting the head back in place. The intake manifold needed to be held back while the head was positioned. There are raised circular areas on 2 places on the block which mate with recesses on the head, enabling one to "click" the head into the correct position. The new bolts went in fine (I oiled each one lightly with engine oil). I used the 3-step tightening scheme of the head bolts in the recommended order-- 16 ftlb, 43 ftlb + 90 degrees.
At this point I made the mistake of reattaching the intake manifold before attaching the 3 connectors at the base of the head on the intake manifold side. Those pesky connections took me a while and held me up in each direction. Not to be underestimated if you are new to the various types of connectors and plugs. The central one was one of those type with a retaining clip which is tough to manipulate. Long thin screwdriver was a help there.
So once the head was connected I reconnected the intake manifold with the new gasket from the IPD gasket set. Used the same nuts for the intake manifold, with some anti-seize compound on each. Ditto the exhaust manifold -- except I did use new nuts here -- ordered from IPD, and coated the threads with anti-seize. The exhaust manifold (with new gasket of course) was very stubborn to get on. I spent probably a total of 2 hours tapping away from various angles with a rubber mallet and piece of 2 x 2. Once the holes on the manifold were onto the studs I was able to help the process along by tightening the nuts in addition to the tapping. Eventually, the exhaust manifold closed on the head. I didn't torque these nuts just did them up as tight as I could without damaging the stud threads.
Then it was time to put the timing gear back together. The camshaft sprocket was torqued to 37 ftlb with Peter's help. He used his strap wrench from Sears and between us we managed to apply the torque. Frederick Su's Volvo Step-By-Step document was very helpful for assembling the tensioner and the spring. He describes a little wooden jig to enable the assembly. Mr. Su has made some excellent Volvo repair contributions on his website. I would recommend any newcomer to check them out. I slipped the timing belt into place and made sure that the white mark I made on the belt and the orientation of the camshaft sprocket relative to the mark on the plastic backpiece were as when I disassembled it. Replace the camshaft cover and the valve cover (the thing with Volvo written on it) which required a new gasket included in the IPD gasket set.
The water pump pulley and the steering pump belt, alternator belt and compressor belts went on OK -- but one of the long thin adjustment screws was missing. I find the adjustment of these belts is irritiatingly troublesome with 12/13 mm head mixes, awkward angles. I intend to clean them up and oil them some time to make the belt adjustment simpler.
The I flushed out the cooling system with a garden hose. I flushed out the radiator separately. I cleaned all the cooling hoses and the coolant reservoir (soaked for days in brake cleaner, soapy water and water and still didn't get all the gunge out.
Assembled the cooling system. Poured in 1 quart of oil which I immediately drained in an attempt to flush out crap from the lower engine compartment (some coolant went in there when I took the head off).
New oil filter, 4 quarts of oil, replaced the battery which I recharged with a recently-acquired battery charger.
Amazingly, the car started on the second crank. Sounded fine. After it got to temperature the exhaust manifold started to emit some light oily smoke. This abated subsequently. The car has only done a few miles so I'm not entirely convinced it's fixed, etc. And after all this, if it turns out it's not worked I'd think twice about posting the news back to this site (for fear of appearing a right dicky-doodah).
Informed opinion had led me to believe that -- as head gasket repair jobs go -- the Volvo 700/900 is rather easy. If I have in fact fixed my sick car with a minimum level of starting expertise I believe I have confirmed this.
Thanks again for the help from this site. Could not have done without it (or neighbor Peter, of course)
Rob
PS I would have saved myself some back had I raised the front of the car for this job.
While the head was off I replaced the RPM sensor which bolts into the bell housing by the firewall -- which should have been a simple job but was complicated because the bolt sheared off. I managed to drill into it with a very fine drill bit and easy-outed it.
I cleaned up all sides of the cylinder head carefully with brake cleaner. I inserted new spark plugs ($12 from IPD) and got used to using neighbor Peter's very nice torque wrench (set/click type, $80 from Sears/Craftsman) in the process. I made sure I did not lose track of which contact on the distributor goes to which cylinder by labeling everything with duct tape and marker as I took it apart. I also installed a new distributor cap, and rotor ($60 from IPD). The old one looked very worn inside.
I also cleaned up the exposed block, piston crowns and cylinder walls gently using brake cleaner and scotchbrite pads. I had some compressed air and a shop vac handy to keep everything clean as I went along. I was advised by the man at the workshop to use shaving cream to block the exposed channels and prevent debris from falling inside. It was still difficult to keep everything clean.
I put the new gasket on the cleaned block and a new water pump ring gasket. I didn't replace the water pump but I think I really should have done.
Then I requested Peter's help getting the head back in place. The intake manifold needed to be held back while the head was positioned. There are raised circular areas on 2 places on the block which mate with recesses on the head, enabling one to "click" the head into the correct position. The new bolts went in fine (I oiled each one lightly with engine oil). I used the 3-step tightening scheme of the head bolts in the recommended order-- 16 ftlb, 43 ftlb + 90 degrees.
At this point I made the mistake of reattaching the intake manifold before attaching the 3 connectors at the base of the head on the intake manifold side. Those pesky connections took me a while and held me up in each direction. Not to be underestimated if you are new to the various types of connectors and plugs. The central one was one of those type with a retaining clip which is tough to manipulate. Long thin screwdriver was a help there.
So once the head was connected I reconnected the intake manifold with the new gasket from the IPD gasket set. Used the same nuts for the intake manifold, with some anti-seize compound on each. Ditto the exhaust manifold -- except I did use new nuts here -- ordered from IPD, and coated the threads with anti-seize. The exhaust manifold (with new gasket of course) was very stubborn to get on. I spent probably a total of 2 hours tapping away from various angles with a rubber mallet and piece of 2 x 2. Once the holes on the manifold were onto the studs I was able to help the process along by tightening the nuts in addition to the tapping. Eventually, the exhaust manifold closed on the head. I didn't torque these nuts just did them up as tight as I could without damaging the stud threads.
Then it was time to put the timing gear back together. The camshaft sprocket was torqued to 37 ftlb with Peter's help. He used his strap wrench from Sears and between us we managed to apply the torque. Frederick Su's Volvo Step-By-Step document was very helpful for assembling the tensioner and the spring. He describes a little wooden jig to enable the assembly. Mr. Su has made some excellent Volvo repair contributions on his website. I would recommend any newcomer to check them out. I slipped the timing belt into place and made sure that the white mark I made on the belt and the orientation of the camshaft sprocket relative to the mark on the plastic backpiece were as when I disassembled it. Replace the camshaft cover and the valve cover (the thing with Volvo written on it) which required a new gasket included in the IPD gasket set.
The water pump pulley and the steering pump belt, alternator belt and compressor belts went on OK -- but one of the long thin adjustment screws was missing. I find the adjustment of these belts is irritiatingly troublesome with 12/13 mm head mixes, awkward angles. I intend to clean them up and oil them some time to make the belt adjustment simpler.
The I flushed out the cooling system with a garden hose. I flushed out the radiator separately. I cleaned all the cooling hoses and the coolant reservoir (soaked for days in brake cleaner, soapy water and water and still didn't get all the gunge out.
Assembled the cooling system. Poured in 1 quart of oil which I immediately drained in an attempt to flush out crap from the lower engine compartment (some coolant went in there when I took the head off).
New oil filter, 4 quarts of oil, replaced the battery which I recharged with a recently-acquired battery charger.
Amazingly, the car started on the second crank. Sounded fine. After it got to temperature the exhaust manifold started to emit some light oily smoke. This abated subsequently. The car has only done a few miles so I'm not entirely convinced it's fixed, etc. And after all this, if it turns out it's not worked I'd think twice about posting the news back to this site (for fear of appearing a right dicky-doodah).
Informed opinion had led me to believe that -- as head gasket repair jobs go -- the Volvo 700/900 is rather easy. If I have in fact fixed my sick car with a minimum level of starting expertise I believe I have confirmed this.
Thanks again for the help from this site. Could not have done without it (or neighbor Peter, of course)
Rob
PS I would have saved myself some back had I raised the front of the car for this job.
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billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Thank you for the update on what has been a real learning curve for you.
Bill.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
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