Need help with setting sequence of repairs

[xHeart]

I have bookmarked MVS posts relevant to my front suspension project.
Checklist is complete for safety procedures, collected parts and tools, and acquired a copy of Haynes manual.

It would include following, but having difficulty picturing taking it down and putting it back together in a right order. What comes before, and after, are there dependencies to watch?

- replacing all four subframe bushings (local shop at fewer labor $$)
- remove and replacing hub/bearing assembly - each side
- remove and install both axles (it will go out to Raxles for rebuild - a 14 days cycle)
- remove and replace inner tie rod - both sides
- remove and replace outer tie rod - both sides
- remove and replace LCA - both sides
- remove and replace sway bar endlinks - both sides
- remove and replace ALL front strut components - both sides

...then
- wheel alignment
- put new tires
- enjoy winter driving

TIA!

[Ben850]

I've done almost all of the above except the subframe bushings, which I intend to give some attention before winter sets in. I haven't had it aligned yet because I want to take a closer look at the delta link bushings and mounts before I waste the money on an alignment.
I did a "diy" alignment for now and every thing seems good at this point. Steering is straight, no pulling or even noticeable torque steer. But I was curious if you had done any of the rear bushings or mounts yet.

[xHeart]

I've done almost all of the above except the subframe bushings, which I intend to give some attention before winter sets in. I haven't had it aligned yet because I want to take a closer look at the delta link bushings and mounts before I waste the money on an alignment.
I did a "diy" alignment for now and every thing seems good at this point. Steering is straight, no pulling or even noticeable torque steer. But I was curious if you had done any of the rear bushings or mounts yet.

Subframe components are key to restoring stability, but often ignored. Suspension steels the show.

I have inspected the rear during the safety and prep. Come spring I plan to take on rear suspension project which would include delta link. Committed to using Volvo/OEM parts, once successful with tasks at hand.

Here is what cn90 said in his pioneer post that made a lot of sense to me. You are on the track too.

The Story:
- I learned the Front Suspension hard way, I first replaced the Outer Tierods 12 months ago, Sway Bar End Links 6 months ago, Control Arms 4 months ago, then CV Rubber Boots 2 months ago. Today, I just replaced my Front Strut! So this was my 5th time poking my head in that area! So if you have more than 90-100K miles and if you plan to keep your car for another 80-100K, then consider doing ALL of the items I mentioned at the same time, on the long run, you save money/labor/alignment costs.

[Ozark Lee]

I would try to stage things so as to minimize the number of times you need to remove the axles, even if it means completing the rebuild from side to side.

The inner and outer tie rod ends don't require the removal of the axle and can be done at any time. The same thing applies to the subframe bushings. I have found that it is easiest to replace the hubs by loosening the axle nuts and then removing the struts. After the axle nut is completely removed you can pop the axle free from the splines in the hub and then replace the hub itself. While the strut is off you have already removed half of the sway bar end link so that is also an opportune time to go ahead and replace the link. While the strut is out you can change the strut parts on your list. It would sure be nice to have the new axles in at that time as well. The control arms can be changed at any time and they don't require removing any of the other stuff.

You can also get the axles out of the hub by removing the control arms but it is harder to get the E-14 torx screws on the hub loose when it is only supported by the strut assembly.

...Lee

[xHeart]

I would try to stage things so as to minimize the number of times you need to remove the axles, even if it means completing the rebuild from side to side.

The inner and outer tie rod ends don't require the removal of the axle and can be done at any time. The same thing applies to the subframe bushings. I have found that it is easiest to replace the hubs by loosening the axle nuts and then removing the struts. After the axle nut is completely removed you can pop the axle free from the splines in the hub and then replace the hub itself. While the strut is off you have already removed half of the sway bar end link so that is also an opportune time to go ahead and replace the link. While the strut is out you can change the strut parts on your list. It would sure be nice to have the new axles in at that time as well. The control arms can be changed at any time and they don't require removing any of the other stuff.

You can also get the axles out of the hub by removing the control arms but it is harder to get the E-14 torx screws on the hub loose when it is only supported by the strut assembly.

...Lee

The axles are off and shipped to Raxles.
The control arm ball-joint connected at the hub, should I remove it next and replace the hub assembly?

[Ozark Lee]

If you removed the struts to get the axles out then I would go for the new hubs next while you have the control arms in place to give you something to wrench against. You can get the hubs out and back in while the ball joint is still in place.

I would then work on the struts and spring seats and get them re-installed. I like to get the steering knuckle supported again before I drop out the control arm. The axle will go back in place with either the strut or the control arm removed.

...Lee

[xHeart]

If you removed the struts to get the axles out then I would go for the new hubs next while you have the control arms in place to give you something to wrench against. You can get the hubs out and back in while the ball joint is still in place.

I would then work on the struts and spring seats and get them re-installed. I like to get the steering knuckle supported again before I drop out the control arm. The axle will go back in place with either the strut or the control arm removed.

...Lee

New TRW control arms are close to these OE, mass, angles, thickness, and finishes identical.
I have control arms off from subframe for axle removal. I could take the control arm off at the knuckle, then replace the hub, put the new control arm back on while it is all supported by the strut. Could I?

And then start on struts while it is supported with control arms. Insert the axle while the struts are off.

[xHeart]

It is an odd set up, but I have used every instruction there is in past 48 hours to unscrew the outer tie rod, except heating it. Troubleshooting with heat needs some hints before I light the torch.
Is this something should I ask the neighborhood shop to loosen for a fee after I replace ALL other parts in my front suspension project? And before any alignment.

It is starting to feel extremely difficult.

MVS_0473.jpg (337.5 KiB) Viewed 2596 times

[cn90]

When dealing with stubborn nuts/bolts, always heat the item with larger diameter to expand it.
In this case, heat at the red arrow for a good 1 min.
It will come off nicely.
Make sure you use a wrench on the inner tierod as counter-hold when undoing the lock nut.

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[xHeart]

Thank You.

There is a post, call it method A, where it say to turn the outer tie rod counter-clockwise while counter-holding the 22mm nut to remove it.
Another post suggests, call it B, to FIRST separate the 22mm nut with a half turn clockwise while counter holding the inner-tie-rod, then turn the outer-tie-rod counter-clockwise to begin removing it.

I am starting with removing the outer-tie-rod, hence after it is heated, would method A have better chance?

Using two VISE-GRIP, it is tearing the skin over the metal.