Step away from removing the hub assembly, but...

Post by **xHeart** » 10 Nov 2012, 16:22

...i am not able to loosen the ABS Sensor, and remove it.

The #14 torx bolts are few turn loose, waiting to come out. BUT...
Haynes Manual - 10-4 Removal 8. I quote, "Check whether the position of the brake disc in relation to the hub is marked, and if not, make your own mark as an aid to installation."

: passenger side hub assembly - arrow points to ABS Sensor; MVS_0463.jpg (372.79 KiB) Viewed 1399 times

Where to look, and what to mark? I will install new hub assembly.

A big wrenching day for me. Enhanced respect for all DIYers.
TIA!

Post by **jimmy57** » 10 Nov 2012, 20:34

mistake. You are right, when the hub is changed there would be no referencing that would be valid.

funbuffalo24 · Post by **funbuffalo24** » 11 Nov 2012, 05:54

I just replaced my front left hub this week, and didn't have to remove the abs sensor in order to do so, nor was it in danger of being damaged, iirc. The only thing I did was remove the wire from its retaining clip to give it room to move around. This is the third time I've replaced a hub without pulling the sensor. I don't think there's a big difference in the steering knuckle between your car and my '00xc; when I put everything back together, the tone wheel on the cv fit right where it should for the sensor. I've only pulled the abs sensor when it failed, and needed replacement.

Post by **cn90** » 11 Nov 2012, 07:02

1+,

Just disconnect the wiring to ABS sensor.
Just be careful when working near the ABS sensor, don't damage it!

Post by **xHeart** » 11 Nov 2012, 09:45

...fearless, but careful. Thank you.

: ABS sensor and knuckle forever...; MVS_0466.jpg (381.61 KiB) Viewed 1328 times

Post by **xHeart** » 13 Nov 2012, 09:08

Diver's side hub assembly condition is making the torx 14 not move at all. Added more PB blaster for the second day.
Now postponing it to coming weekend.

funbuffalo24 · Post by **funbuffalo24** » 13 Nov 2012, 10:57

You can always try heat as well; MAP gas or propane torches really help! When I did mine, the bolts came out ok (with a bit of heat), but it was 'glued' to the knuckle, a few whacks with a rubber mallet might help you in removing the 4 bolts, and the hub itself..

Post by **cn90** » 13 Nov 2012, 11:06

1+,

If you decide to use heat (Propane torch is $10 at hardware store, same stuff plumbers use to solder copper pipes), don't heat the bolt head itself but rather heat the bearing side to expand the steel.
Have a look at the bearing mount (where it mounts into the knuckle), and you will see where the Torx bolts go into, there is where you want to apply heat.
Make sure you don't heat the ABS sensor!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 13 Nov 2012, 13:54

Your problem is the main reason I leave the steering knuckle on the control arm to remove the hub bolts. As you know from doing one side already the bolts fight like hell until the loc-tite snaps and having the control arm there to hold things in place gives you something to wrench against. Once the bolts break free you can almost remove them with your fingers.

...Lee

Post by **xHeart** » 14 Nov 2012, 09:05

Ozark Lee wrote:Your problem is the main reason I leave the steering knuckle on the control arm to remove the hub bolts. As you know from doing one side already the bolts fight like hell until the loc-tite snaps and having the control arm there to hold things in place gives you something to wrench against. Once the bolts break free you can almost remove them with your fingers.

...Lee

You are right Lee, since suspended with struts only it swings. I will put the control arm back on loosely, add little heat. Would it catch fire since it is soaked with PB Blaster?

During the moment of loosing fight, I started to look closely at the bearing, it is original Volvo. It has same numerals as on the new replacement timken/fag. Never replaced I assume.

Taking pain medicine with water.