'98 Timing Belt Procedure Photos

Post by **matthew1** » 19 Nov 2012, 16:53

These timing belt replacement procedure photos were sent in by MVS user Carl after he replaced the belt on his 1998 Volvo V70 R.

If you have questions about timing belt replacement, please ask in one of the "major" timing belt replacement topics. This TB photo topic was added to that list.

If you have a question specifically about something you find in these photos, please ask in this topic (click the Reply button). I don't know if Carl will answer -- I don't know if he has a MVS Volvo forum account.

Timing Belt Both Cam Marks Alignment, click image for very large version.

Timing Belt Cam Locking Tool, click image for very large version.

Timing Belt Crank Pulley View Below, click image for very large version.

"Duh"

Timing Belt Engine And Crank Marks, click image for very large version.

Timing Belt Mark On Crank, click image for very large version.

Timing Belt Partial Disassembly, click image for very large version.

Timing Belt Pre Work View, click image for very large version.

Timing Belt Score Mark On Exhaust Cam, click image for very large version.

Timing Belt Score Mark On Intake Cam, click image for very large version.

Timing Belt Unmarked Mark On Crank, click image for very large version.

Timing Belt View Wheel Skirt Up, click image for very large version.

Timing Belt Cam Marks, click image for very large version.

Timing Belt Artistic Shot, click image for very large version.

carletal · Post by **carletal** » 19 Nov 2012, 18:54

Matt, All,
Yup, I am a participant in the Forums and can try to answer specific questions. Some basic comments about this job: it is tight space and you will get your hands banged up; you need to pay attention and be consistent in steps and stay calm, especially when replacing the timing belt onto the cams; you should find out what your independent shop wants for this work, including changing out the water pump, as this is simple for an experienced wrench twister, but not otherwise! On that issue, several commented that they didn't want to change the water pump out, as "it ain't broke, leave it alone" and "fear of leakage". This water pump is a full-proof installation, pegs into location precisely and the torque settings on the bolts are pretty light, so my only advise would be to use a real torque wrench, and set them all proper. I would never take on the trouble of this job without changing all the pulleys, tensioner and water pump. I did attach the water pump gasket to the pump with gasket seal, then a very light coat on the outside gasket surface. Insures the gasket is in proper place, but I think the gasket can be placed on the locating pins on the engine itself to stay in place, and not need to use any sealant whatsoever, though I am not sure what, if anything the Volvo official manual says on this. I am glad I got the job done. And though not a "professional'" mechanic, I am very experienced: maybe a total of 4-5 hours time invested, with a full lift, working from above and below, but with no extra hands to help.
Carl

Post by **JimBee** » 19 Nov 2012, 20:22

Re: the water pump. Did my '93 850 15 months ago. Likewise, applied a light smear of water pump specific gasket sealant on the pump side of the gasket, applied the gasket to the pump and let the sealant set up for about 45 minutes (on a summer day), then installed. I went around the bolts several times (cross-tightening) until they felt good and snug. Ran out of time, working outside. Came back to it the next morning and just thought I would check tightness. The bolts turned quite easily. Snugged them up again and have had no leaks.

p.s. I think cleaning up the pump mating surface on the block is important. I used some gasket softener, but made better progress with a sharp tool, using it very gently. I didn't use sealant on the block side of the gasket in case it needs to be replaced again. With all the perimeter screws on the pump, if you snug them up with a new gasket installed, leave it for a while and re-tighten, you'll get a good seal.

Post by **matthew1** » 19 Nov 2012, 20:24

Carl, thanks for the tips.

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fn42 · Post by **fn42** » 20 Nov 2012, 08:23

Water pump advice: USE A TORQUE WRENCH!!!

whoever did mine last completely f'ed it up and destroyed 2 threads, I had to tap the threads out to accept an M8 bolt which was a weeks-long experience that I never want to go through again

I used fine sand paper to get the (shredded) old gasket off the surface, applied a small amount of RTV to both sides of the gasket then carefully bolted it back on. ~500 miles later and no leaks so far but I'm watching it carefully

If you're going to do the cam seals go from the inside of the seal with a pick, try to get the pick behind the seal and pull it out. It took me a bit to figure out how to do it right but when I did the 2nd one it came out in seconds

Post by **jblackburn** » 20 Nov 2012, 08:40

fn42 wrote:Water pump advice: USE A TORQUE WRENCH!!!

whoever did mine last completely f'ed it up and destroyed 2 threads, I had to tap the threads out to accept an M8 bolt which was a weeks-long experience that I never want to go through again

I used fine sand paper to get the (shredded) old gasket off the surface, applied a small amount of RTV to both sides of the gasket then carefully bolted it back on. ~500 miles later and no leaks so far but I'm watching it carefully

If you're going to do the cam seals go from the inside of the seal with a pick, try to get the pick behind the seal and pull it out. It took me a bit to figure out how to do it right but when I did the 2nd one it came out in seconds

No need for a torque wrench; just tighten the bolts snug and don't over-tighten them like a gorilla.

Sounds like a good method for the cam seals; they're a real pain to get out with a screw and you risk screwing up the cams.

Post by **cn90** » 25 Nov 2012, 06:13

My 1998 S70 GLT is now at 145K.
I know the Volvo dealer changed the TB at 65K. So the TB has 80K on it.
I just removed the TB cover and did a quick check:
- Water Pump OK, no leak.
- Hydraulic tensioner sems OK.
- Both rollers (tensioner and idler) seem OK with very very slight play.

-------
I have all the parts for the next TB job ready to go (WP, TB, Hydraulic Tensioner, rollers x2, all Volvo OEM parts).

Here is the $1M question: I am busy with family/work/kids, plus winter is coming (who wants to work in the cold?).
I want to know if I can wait until 150K or the Spring of 2013 to do this.

In other words, those who had the rollers failure, when did they fail, 150K, 175K?

Post by **xHeart** » 25 Nov 2012, 07:00

cn90 wrote:My 1998 S70 GLT is now at 145K.
I know the Volvo dealer changed the TB at 65K. So the TB has 80K on it.
I just removed the TB cover and did a quick check:
- Water Pump OK, no leak.
- Hydraulic tensioner sems OK.
- Both rollers (tensioner and idler) seem OK with very very slight play.

-------
I have all the parts for the next TB job ready to go (WP, TB, Hydraulic Tensioner, rollers x2, all Volvo OEM parts).

Here is the $1M question: I am busy with family/work/kids, plus winter is coming (who wants to work in the cold?).
I want to know if I can wait until 150K or the Spring of 2013 to do this.

In other words, those who had the rollers failure, when did they fail, 150K, 175K?

REPLACE!
You won't forgive yourself if it fails during a spell of bitter cold.
Remember, my HEPU failed close to after 18K.

Post by **Pauloil** » 25 Nov 2012, 07:26

cn90 wrote:My 1998 S70 GLT is now at 145K.
I know the Volvo dealer changed the TB at 65K. So the TB has 80K on it.
I just removed the TB cover and did a quick check:
- Water Pump OK, no leak.
- Hydraulic tensioner sems OK.
- Both rollers (tensioner and idler) seem OK with very very slight play.

-------
I have all the parts for the next TB job ready to go (WP, TB, Hydraulic Tensioner, rollers x2, all Volvo OEM parts).

Here is the $1M question: I am busy with family/work/kids, plus winter is coming (who wants to work in the cold?).
I want to know if I can wait until 150K or the Spring of 2013 to do this.

In other words, those who had the rollers failure, when did they fail, 150K, 175K?

if it looks good, wait. if it sounds good, ok to wait. I got nervous about my V70xc having the orig. tensioner, so replaced it at 157K. when I started, the tensioner was all the way loose! I am going to look at it again in a few thousand miles, but the car is running well with more power, I feel.

Post by **Ben850** » 25 Nov 2012, 07:30

I had purchased everything to do a '93 850 timig belt with all OEM. The timing belt cover only had the original 50,000 mi. recommendation sticker, so I imagined it was still the small 21mm, 143 tooth belt size.

Upon removing the timing cover I had discovered the belt and pulleys had been upgraded to the 23mm, 148 tooth belt system.

I returned everything, and decided to get artistic. I went with a blue one with INA pulleys.

So there it is. This thread was about photos. I had taken a few. But remember to inspect your present belt before buying parts.
Any parts for that matter.
Have fun.