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Volvo 850 heater core replacement 2

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Volvo 850 Heater Core Replacement Tutorial
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precopster
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Re: Volvo 850 heater core replacement 2

Post by precopster »

IMy only question is: What are the part numbers for the rubber heater hoses that run from the coupler to the block?
Look up the hoses part numbers on FCP Groton's site under '99 model. They have no listing under 2000 model; at least not for the NA model. I brought it to one of their guy's attention but things being usual there.....

Used this heater core myself a month ago on my 2000 V70 na WITH NEW COUPLER and hoses. Job went like a dream.
If you're going to bypass the coupler pull the L shaped tubes out and use the old coupler as a grommet; saves the risk of chafing the hoses as they pass through the firewall which is something you definitely don't want.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

mtd240
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Post by mtd240 »

Thanks for the info guys. I will be buying the Ebay heater core - that is a ridiculously low price with good reviews.

I want to keep the stock coupler, etc. If it were my car, I might try something "custom", but since it is my future brother-in-law's, I would rather keep it stock.

I found the heater hose PN#s. Total for everything comes out to $182 (coupler kit and hoses from tasca). Not bad, especially since I started out with the assumption that the heater core would be >$100 on its own.

Is there anything else I am missing? Is replacing the heater hoses a logical thing to do, or is there alot more work involved? Hoping for a "Loosen clamp. Remove Hose. Install new hose. Tighten clamp." type of procedure.
2007 XC70, white/oak, 175k miles
2008 XC70 3.2L, 115k miles
2016 XC60, osmium grey / off-black, 95k miles
Gone:
1990 240 DL Wagon, M47, lots of goodies. 372,000 miles
1978 242, lots and lots of work to get a reliable daily
1998 V70 XC, Almost done replacing everything, then I sold it :lol:
1996 850 NA, victim of sporadic tree falling. Protected the wife. RIP Volvo

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

That is certainly up to you.

Personally, if this were me:
1. Ebay heater core = $40
2. Heater Hose = $6 for 6-feet

Total = $46.

Permanent fix. Just inform your brother-in-law this is what you do.
This mod (bypassing the coupler) is 10x better than the factory junk.
If the Volvo engineers see this mod, they will be jealous!
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

mtd240
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Post by mtd240 »

cn90 wrote:That is certainly up to you.

Personally, if this were me:
1. Ebay heater core = $40
2. Heater Hose = $6 for 6-feet

Total = $46.

Permanent fix. Just inform your brother-in-law this is what you do.
This mod (bypassing the coupler) is 10x better than the factory junk.
If the Volvo engineers see this mod, they will be jealous!
Very tempting..I think I might give it a try. Saving $140 might be worth it :lol:
2007 XC70, white/oak, 175k miles
2008 XC70 3.2L, 115k miles
2016 XC60, osmium grey / off-black, 95k miles
Gone:
1990 240 DL Wagon, M47, lots of goodies. 372,000 miles
1978 242, lots and lots of work to get a reliable daily
1998 V70 XC, Almost done replacing everything, then I sold it :lol:
1996 850 NA, victim of sporadic tree falling. Protected the wife. RIP Volvo

cn90
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Joined: 31 March 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
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Post by cn90 »

This is the DIY that you need:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=44948

See the pic by "erikv11".
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

mtd240
Posts: 326
Joined: 7 December 2011
Year and Model: 2007 XC70
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Has thanked: 23 times
Been thanked: 7 times

Post by mtd240 »

cn90 wrote:This is the DIY that you need:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=44948

See the pic by "erikv11".
Yeah I saw that - looks pretty simple. What kind of pipe cutter were you talking about using?
2007 XC70, white/oak, 175k miles
2008 XC70 3.2L, 115k miles
2016 XC60, osmium grey / off-black, 95k miles
Gone:
1990 240 DL Wagon, M47, lots of goodies. 372,000 miles
1978 242, lots and lots of work to get a reliable daily
1998 V70 XC, Almost done replacing everything, then I sold it :lol:
1996 850 NA, victim of sporadic tree falling. Protected the wife. RIP Volvo

cn90
Posts: 8251
Joined: 31 March 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
Location: Omaha NE
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Post by cn90 »

Ask any plumber and they will tell you they use pipe cutter to cut copper pipe for home plumbing.
Just tighten the tool, then rotate it, then tighten it, then rotate it until it cuts through.
It is $8-10 at Home Depot, get the mini cutter so it fits better in that space.

http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-Plumb ... ogId=10053

Youtube has some videos. The tool is very easy to use.

2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

precopster
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Post by precopster »

cn90 wrote:That is certainly up to you.

Personally, if this were me:
1. Ebay heater core = $40
2. Heater Hose = $6 for 6-feet

Total = $46.

Permanent fix. Just inform your brother-in-law this is what you do.
This mod (bypassing the coupler) is 10x better than the factory junk.
If the Volvo engineers see this mod, they will be jealous!
Sorry to nitpick but you forgot the price of 2 extra hose clamps for the cabin side costing about $1.50 each so around $49 all up. These couplers below are ready to protect hose.
You can cut the metal pipes a little shorter and get a great looking noise cancelling grommet which looks factory made. Fits 5/8 hose perfectly.

With a bit of pulling and penetrant spray they gut very easily.
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Last edited by precopster on 12 Dec 2012, 14:20, edited 3 times in total.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

mtd240
Posts: 326
Joined: 7 December 2011
Year and Model: 2007 XC70
Location: Ellicott City, MD
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Post by mtd240 »

I am thinking that the only reason Volvo used the method they did (metal pipe to coupler to rubber hose) was safety. It leaves the weakest link, and the most catastrophic failure mode (rubber hose exploding/popping) in the engine bay. Putting the metal pipe in the cabin prevents a catastrophic "boiling hot coolant hose explosion" from happening right at the driver's feet/legs.

Will do some more thinking on this..
Last edited by mtd240 on 12 Dec 2012, 22:29, edited 1 time in total.
2007 XC70, white/oak, 175k miles
2008 XC70 3.2L, 115k miles
2016 XC60, osmium grey / off-black, 95k miles
Gone:
1990 240 DL Wagon, M47, lots of goodies. 372,000 miles
1978 242, lots and lots of work to get a reliable daily
1998 V70 XC, Almost done replacing everything, then I sold it :lol:
1996 850 NA, victim of sporadic tree falling. Protected the wife. RIP Volvo

precopster
Posts: 7543
Joined: 21 August 2010
Year and Model: Lots
Location: Melbourne Australia
Has thanked: 8 times
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Post by precopster »

That's very good analytical thinking and certainly food for thought. In RHD countries it's on the passenger side so not as catastrophic an event if this happens; at least not for the driver. As hoses age I can see the lazy scenario happening: "if it ain't broke, why fix it?" until one day.........

Honestly who is going to do back contortions to replace hose every 2-3 years, spill and recover coolant just to be safe? We're replacing our heater cores because they're broken. The same can be said of any other ongoing repair work on 10+ year old cars.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

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