oil thermostat screws
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troutfanatic
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 10 Jul 2012, 22:31
- Year and Model: s70,1998
- Location: chattanooga, tn
I have a 98 volvo s70 t5. I am changing the oil cooler lines and cannot get the two screws out of the oil thermostat. I have sprayed them with SB penetrating catallyst and tapped on them. I don't want to strip them. Are they just T30 Torx screws? Any recommendations? The PITB bolt that bolts the lines to the motor came out easily. I thought I had it made:-) Thank you for any help.
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cn90
- Posts: 8358
- Joined: 31 Mar 2010, 09:54
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 504 times
This should help you. Let me know if you need anything else:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/14 ... -write-up/
PS: The Torx screws: get a pick tool and clean the inside well so the Torx keys can "bite" properly.
You don't want to strip the Torx screws!
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/14 ... -write-up/
PS: The Torx screws: get a pick tool and clean the inside well so the Torx keys can "bite" properly.
You don't want to strip the Torx screws!
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
- alschnertz
- Posts: 701
- Joined: 29 Apr 2011, 09:25
- Year and Model: 1995 854T
- Location: Connecticut
- Has thanked: 2 times
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I used these replacement oil lines on my '95 854T. http://auctions.volvospeed.com/DISCOUNT ... ad_details
I installed them a year and half ago. Great fit, no problems, and he's a good guy.
Edit: No, there is no science to removing the Torx bolts. Yes, make sure they're really clean and you get a good "bite" on them.
I installed them a year and half ago. Great fit, no problems, and he's a good guy.
Edit: No, there is no science to removing the Torx bolts. Yes, make sure they're really clean and you get a good "bite" on them.
'60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145S, '86 745T, '95 854T, '01 S40
'84 Prelude
'06 MPV
'13 Ford Focus SE
'84 Prelude
'06 MPV
'13 Ford Focus SE
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cn90
- Posts: 8358
- Joined: 31 Mar 2010, 09:54
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
- Has thanked: 4 times
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alschnertz,
Glad it worked for you.
For those who wonder how that is done (the link for the auctions above):
- Remove the leaky rubber hose, cut it and remove it.
- Keep the metal connectors.
- Use new hose with appropriate I.D.
- Cut to proper length (use old hose as a guide).
- Slide the new hose into the old metal connector, it is simply barb fitting.
- Crimp with Oetiker clamps and done.
Cost is a few dollars for the hose and Oetiker clamps.
Of course the O-ring is a separate item.
----
At the factory, this is how hydraulic hose is made, pretty simple as long as you have the hydraulic tool:
Glad it worked for you.
For those who wonder how that is done (the link for the auctions above):
- Remove the leaky rubber hose, cut it and remove it.
- Keep the metal connectors.
- Use new hose with appropriate I.D.
- Cut to proper length (use old hose as a guide).
- Slide the new hose into the old metal connector, it is simply barb fitting.
- Crimp with Oetiker clamps and done.
Cost is a few dollars for the hose and Oetiker clamps.
Of course the O-ring is a separate item.
----
At the factory, this is how hydraulic hose is made, pretty simple as long as you have the hydraulic tool:
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
If they do get stripped, an EZout should get them out OK.troutfanatic wrote:I have a 98 volvo s70 t5. I am changing the oil cooler lines and cannot get the two screws out of the oil thermostat. I have sprayed them with SB penetrating catallyst and tapped on them. I don't want to strip them. Are they just T30 Torx screws? Any recommendations? The PITB bolt that bolts the lines to the motor came out easily. I thought I had it made:-) Thank you for any help.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
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Matty Moo
- Posts: 1810
- Joined: 12 Oct 2008, 21:38
- Year and Model: 850, 1996
- Location: Ann Arbor, MI
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 30 times
My Platinum was a lifelong Chicago car, my bolts were all crusty and seized also. I sprayed them with PB and tapped them lightly with a hammer. I then went tight (slightly) then loose, they came right out. I will say I really didn't enjoy that job all that much.
I keep a collection of wire brushes to clean bolts before I wrench on them if they're really corroded. I'll brush them, spray them again then blow them out with the air gun. I really despise road salt.
I keep a collection of wire brushes to clean bolts before I wrench on them if they're really corroded. I'll brush them, spray them again then blow them out with the air gun. I really despise road salt.

http://www.midwest-abs.com
Simplycleanpowerwash.com
1996 850 Platinum Wagon. ARD Green Tune, OBX.-Gone
1998 s70 ARD tune, EST exhaust, SE/R interior.
1999 s70 Plain Jane.
2000 s70 GLT
2014 Ram
2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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troutfanatic
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 10 Jul 2012, 22:31
- Year and Model: s70,1998
- Location: chattanooga, tn
Thanks for the tips. I will try cleaning the screws with a pick and spraying them out. I did buy the original Volvo lines and kit from FCP. $250.00 bucks, but probably worth it from what I've been reading. Again, thanks everyone. This is a great site!!
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