Pull the module back out and resolder all of the pins. DO NOT jam things between the harness and the module. I've posted pics here of what can happen when you do that, the end result is a melted module/harness at best. That power can only be stopped by the 30 amp fuse once it takes off and that 30 amps will do a ton of damage before that fuse blows.woodchopper wrote:Many thanks to everyone for all the work and pictures you have contributed. My ABS light was coming on infrequently. I took it off and apart. I could not see any cracks in the solder using a magnifying glass so I decided to just put it back on without doing anything to it. I sprayed the connectors and the metal tubes that the module slides onto(electrical contact cleaner). After about a month the light came on again. I put a piece between the wiring harness and pump to put pressure on the pins and that seems to have worked, it has been about six months now.
This is on a front wheel drive non turbo, no tracs.
The shim trick would work just fine if it weren't for the incoming power pins being on the same harness. Those 4 pairs don't crack, but by shimming you can crack them and once they do that's when the mess starts. Also, shimming does nothing to address the pins that feed the pump motor.
I know there's a Canadian website that advocates doing that, and there are dozens of posts there declaring victory against their abs lights. You wouldn't rig up the electrical in your house and you surely shouldn't do it in your car either.







