Rear main seal/ transmission

guambrocha · Post by **guambrocha** » 30 Jan 2013, 17:21

1996 volvo 850 non turbo station wagon. As you can see in the pictures I took my engine and transmission apart, had a BAD leak .

Question 1 (picture 3): to take Rear main seal, if you look closely in the green circle pointed by the red arrow there is a little metal O-ring with a tab, is that the way to take the seal out? or by force?

Question 2 (picture 1): While I have the engine/transmission out is there any possible problem parts that you would replace? I was thinking separating part A from B on transmission picture by means of the bolts circles in red and just see inside and look for anything odd.

Question 3 (picture 2): If I was to take bolts circled in red would that be a better option to question 2 (picture 1)?

Question 4: Upon ordering parts somehow I got an oil seal, where is that in the motor? <------ Blond moment
I want to do this once and do it right, would appreciate any input, If there is anything you would consider checking while the engine is out what would it be?

guambrocha · Post by **guambrocha** » 30 Jan 2013, 17:24

pictures from my previous post

Post by **cn90** » 30 Jan 2013, 17:56

Whatever you do, don't mar the sealing surfaces on the bore and on the crankshaft!!!

Use only Volvo OEM Seals:
- RMS
- Transmission Seals x3 (Input x1, Ouput x2).

To remove seal, use sheet metal screws at 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Be very careful to insert the screw in a straight manner so you don't mar the sealing surfaces.

During install, make sure the garter spring (of the seal) faces the inside of the transmission. Use appropriate socket/adapter. You can use the old seal to serve as cushion to avoid damage to new seal.

guambrocha · Post by **guambrocha** » 30 Jan 2013, 19:51

Could you tell me more about the 3 seals (input x1 output x2) I am replacing the 2 axle seals, torque torque seal and rear main seal, would you consider opening up the transmission and checking any gaskets if there are any?

Post by **erikv11** » 30 Jan 2013, 20:23

guambrocha wrote:Could you tell me more about the 3 seals (input x1 output x2) I am replacing the 2 axle seals, torque torque seal and rear main seal, would you consider opening up the transmission and checking any gaskets if there are any?

You've already got it figured out. You guys are talking about the same seals.

"trans output shaft seals" are more usually called "axle seals"
"trans input shaft seal" is sometimes called "torque converter seal"

There is no reason to open up the trans if it wasn't acting up (e.g. shift solenoids, etc.). No other seals to mess with there.

I gather you also have the engine out, I would consider the following because now these are all much easier to do
- PCV
- timing parts (belt, rollers, tensioner)
- cam seals
- tuneup parts
- vacuum lines

But none of that is necessary. Similarly, how is the steering rack? AC system in good shape?

By oil seal, maybe you got the oil pump seal? Post up a pic.

Post by **cn90** » 30 Jan 2013, 20:32

If you want to be a perfectionist, then replace the FRONT Crank Seal/Oil Pump Seal too, again use Volvo OEM stuff, anything else is a gamble. Below is a nice tutorial:

Volvo 5-cylinder: How to Replace the Head Gasket

Another option item is the O-rings in the oil sump.

Post by **erikv11** » 30 Jan 2013, 20:39

cn90 wrote:...
Another option item is the O-rings in the oil sump.

Oh, +1000!!!

No better or easier time to do this, and they almost all go out eventually.

Post by **wheelsup** » 31 Jan 2013, 09:49

Scroll down towards the bottom, I mention (with photos) the 3 seals on the transmission to replace:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=53437

As far as the RMS, what you are pointing at in #3 is not the RMS. It's the crank. The seal is about 1/4" wide (at most) and fits around the crank. The easiest method is put a small sheet metal screw into it, piercing it, then hook a large pick into the hole and use leverage to pop it off. You MUST be careful to not scratch the surface. If you do, it's better to scratch the OUTSIDE seal portion as it does not rotate, the inside portion is sealing the rotating crank. A scratch on the rotating portion will slowly damage the seal and allow oil through.

Post by **xHeart** » 31 Jan 2013, 14:48

erikv11 wrote:
cn90 wrote:...
Another option item is the O-rings in the oil sump.
Oh, +1000!!!

No better or easier time to do this, and they almost all go out eventually.

Incorrect comment deleted.

Post by **pkc303** » 03 Feb 2013, 23:55

Motor mounts would be easy with the engine out.