Login Register

850 Glove Box Latch Repair Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Volvo Glove Box Repair - The Saw Method
Post Reply
Ozark Lee
MVS Moderator
Posts: 14798
Joined: 7 September 2006
Year and Model: Many Volvos
Location: USA Midwest
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 75 times

Volvo Repair Database 850 Glove Box Latch Repair

Post by Ozark Lee »

Based on all of the good information on this site I set out to repair my faulty glove box latch on a ’94 850. The hardest part of the job is sawing through the catch hoop or, as Volvo calls it, the brace. I used a largish screwdriver to pry the glove box door lid out “as far as was comfortable” so as to give as much room as possible to saw the hoop. As has been noted you should tape off all but about 1” of the blade so as to not tear up the vinyl on the glove box lid or the air bag cover directly above it.
DSC01898.JPG
DSC01898.JPG (206.78 KiB) Viewed 21093 times
The taped off hack saw blade.

Once you saw through both sides of the hoop (brace) the door magically opens and reveals an archive into the previous owner’s life, he/she couldn’t open it either.

The next step is to remove the six torx head screws that hold in the interior of the glove box. They use a T-25 torx bit and the ones behind the door arms are a little tough to get to since they are directly behind the arms. I gently moved the arms aside with the socket extension so as to get a bite on the screw.
DSC01896.JPG
DSC01896.JPG (212.31 KiB) Viewed 21093 times
Removing the torx head screws.


The next step is to release the door arms from the door. On the right side of each arm is a small hole, gently press a small screwdriver into the hole which will release the catch. Once it releases from the door lift it up and release the other arm in the same manner. When both arms are released the door will fall slightly.
DSC01899.JPG
DSC01899.JPG (214.9 KiB) Viewed 21093 times
Releasing the door arms.

You are now ready to remove the inner portion of the glove box. In my case there were sharp portions of the hoop (brace) exposed so I had to pull the center of the upper portion of the box down so as to begin to extract it. Pull it out a little bit and then feed the arms back through the inner glove box slots. Once both arms are clear of the inner glove box you can complete the removal of the inner glove box.

The next step is to remove the 4 torx head screws that hold the lower hinges on the glove box door. They to take a T-25 bit. Once the 4 screws are removed you can take to door to a more comfortable place and fix a cocktail.

At this point you still have the other end of the sawed off hoop (brace) protruding from the glove box door. If your “more comfortable place” is, perhaps, your dining room table, now is a good time to remove the sharp sawed off portion of the hoop by pushing the catch upward with straight slot screwdriver. This will help to not scratch anything that shouldn’t be scratched.

On the interior portion of the door there are 7 phillips head screws that affix the door front to the rear section which houses the mechanical parts of the latch. Remove the screws and separate the two halves of the door assembly.
DSC01900.JPG
DSC01900.JPG (215.34 KiB) Viewed 21093 times
The guts of the glove box door after the cover is removed.

I purchased the replacement latch and hoop (brace) from the dealer. All said they were US $59.00, about $10.00 over the internet replacements but there was no freight – I figure it was a wash. My kit came with the latch handle, the connecting rod, and the latch assembly. I noticed 2 things right away, the latch assembly has been completely redesigned and the entire assembly is made in France. I’m glad it has been redesigned.

Since I had a new handle I decided to install it, usually it is not bad so it really isn’t necessary. The new handle comes without a lock so it is necessary to remove your old lock from your original handle assembly and insert it into your new handle assembly. To remove the lock, gently pry out the two locking tabs at the very top of the white plastic lock slider. The lock will release from the old handle. I wasn’t paying a lot of attention when I removed the lock but it appears that there is a possibility that the lock may come apart at this step. Be careful.
DSC01901.JPG
DSC01901.JPG (213.44 KiB) Viewed 21093 times
A bad picture but at the very top of the white lock lever are the two tabs that hold the lock in place.


Insert the lock into the new handle assembly and test that the lock slide move back and forth with the key.
DSC01902.JPG
DSC01902.JPG (214.32 KiB) Viewed 21093 times
Handle in the locked position, make sure the upper portion of the lock lever moves from side to side with the key.

At this point remove the old handle assembly by removing the three “Cross Head” screws. They look like a phillips head but they are flat at the bottom and a phillips screwdriver won’t work. I used a small straight slot screwdriver to remove and replace them.

Replace the handle assembly in the reverse manner as it was removed.


I next replaced the “extension rod” by removing it and replacing it in the same manner as it came out. The return spring will pull it out of its final position but that gets dealt with in the next step.

The next step is to replace the latch assembly by removing the three “Cross Head” screws with a small straight blade screwdriver. The only trick here is to make sure that the flange on the extension rod is on the latch assembly side of the plastic guide that the rod rides in.

Test the entire assembly to make sure it works correctly by taking your sawed off hoop and seeing if it releases with the lever after you insert it into the latch.

Reassemble the two halves of the door by replacing the seven screws that were removed in the disassembly process.

At this point you will need to replace the remnants of the catch hoop (brace) below the airbag that was sawed off in step 1. Remove the two phillips head screws and replace it with a new part.

The next step is to re-install the door assembly by replacing the four torx head screws into the lower portion of the dash.

From here on replacement process is the opposite of the removal process. The only real trick is to feed the door arms through the interior glove box as it goes back into its original space. The arms will “click” into the door with a gentle press. Then replace the six torx head screws that hold the interior glove box into the dash.

Adjustment.

My door closed a little tough so I did the pliers adjustment on the hoop (brace) by bending it up and down a little bit until the door closed smoothly. My next step is to invent a tool to release the latch without sawing off the hoop!

Hope this helps.

…Lee
Last edited by Ozark Lee on 22 Oct 2008, 13:36, edited 2 times in total.
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

User avatar
matthew1
Site Admin
Posts: 14460
Joined: 14 September 2002
Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
Location: Denver, Colorado, US
Has thanked: 2650 times
Been thanked: 1240 times
Contact:

Post by matthew1 »

Thanks Lee!
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.

Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!

1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

How to Thank someone for their post

Image

Volgrrr
Posts: 246
Joined: 13 September 2006
Year and Model: '95 T5 wagon
Location: Near Ararat, Victoria, Australia

Post by Volgrrr »

Thanks Lee,

I have know a method where you have to drill through the front of the glovebox, but having to do this leaves me a bit cold.

I'm off to try your method and hopefully I will be able to get mine open also.

I'll let you know how I go.

Volgrrr

PS. A mechanic in a Volvo workshop told me he simply cuts apart the screws holding the inner and outer parts of the glovebox together. However, I've never tried this method, I'm going to try yours first.
There are only two types of car owners - those who own Volvos and those who wish they did.

Volgrrr
Posts: 246
Joined: 13 September 2006
Year and Model: '95 T5 wagon
Location: Near Ararat, Victoria, Australia

Post by Volgrrr »

I tried to force the glove box lid down enough to get at the latch using some pretty heavy gear but, while I could lever the glove box lid down to where I could just see the top edge of the glove box insert, I could not get the lid down sufficiently to slide a hacksaw blade through to sever the latch.

It looks like I'm now faced with the unthinkable 'hole through the front of the glove box' solution.
There are only two types of car owners - those who own Volvos and those who wish they did.

Ozark Lee
MVS Moderator
Posts: 14798
Joined: 7 September 2006
Year and Model: Many Volvos
Location: USA Midwest
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 75 times

Post by Ozark Lee »

>>I tried to force the glove box lid down enough to get at the latch using some pretty heavy gear but, while I could lever the glove box lid down to where I could just see the top edge of the glove box insert, I could not get the lid down sufficiently to slide a hacksaw blade through to sever the latch. <<

Try prying outward rather than down. You won't ever be able to see it with your eyes but you will be able to feel it with the hacksaw blade. It will take 2 cuts, one for each "wire" on the brace.

Here is a link to a picture of what you are sawing through.


http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?code=7965

Good Luck,

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

Volgrrr
Posts: 246
Joined: 13 September 2006
Year and Model: '95 T5 wagon
Location: Near Ararat, Victoria, Australia

Post by Volgrrr »

Hi Ozark Lee,

I managed to force the glovebox OUTWARD as you suggested and was able to gain access to the latch brace.

Everything was very tight and I was half expecting something to break with the tremendous force being exerted around this general area.

Eventually I managed to get a hacksaw blade in and cut the latch off.

There was the culprit, a small operating lug snapped off and sitting quite innocently on the latch trip mechanism. Grrr!!! Grrr!!! Grrr!!!

A new pin has been made and the unit re-assembled.

The whole thing works perfectly.

YIPPEEEEE!!!!!
There are only two types of car owners - those who own Volvos and those who wish they did.

loveMy850
Posts: 369
Joined: 8 October 2006
Year and Model: 1994 850 WAGON
Location: California
Has thanked: 97 times
Been thanked: 4 times

Post by loveMy850 »

Wow I wish I had known this site was here before I busted the door. I had to pull and yank on it and finaly ended upgetting a tire wrench in there till I busted the latch. Had to replace the entire latch and door. Good luck to anyone out there tring this.

Mark Healey
Posts: 1
Joined: 15 March 2009
Year and Model: 850 1995
Location: Niagara

Post by Mark Healey »

I had the same problem. The glove box suddenly became stuck. I hack sawed my way through and gained access.
Thanks for the help - Monday I'll head over to the shop and see if they have a new latch (hopefully, a new design).

wliebelt
Posts: 3
Joined: 27 July 2010
Year and Model: 2015.5 Volvo S 60
Location: San Francisco

Post by wliebelt »

The article was useful in getting the glovebox open. An additional probelm I have is that the plastic bracket on the dashboard that supports the right hand hinge on the glove box is broken. As a result there is nothing to support the hinge. Any thoughts on how to repair the plastic or construct something that will support the hinge? Would it be possible to glue some plastic to the back of that part of the dash that would hold the screws? What kind of plastic is this and what product would work?

Ozark Lee
MVS Moderator
Posts: 14798
Joined: 7 September 2006
Year and Model: Many Volvos
Location: USA Midwest
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 75 times

Post by Ozark Lee »

I have had similar problems - Volvo and plastic don't get along real well. I think I used a thin strip of steel as a backer and some self tapping screws to secure it. It has been a few years ago and my memory of the troubles with that plan are fuzzy.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post