Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

[jesselks]

Should have posted ealier. Many thanks to everyone. Especially MattyMoo (http://www.midwest-abs.com/) for repairing my abs unit. I used the following tools, (in addition to the socket listed earlier):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LHVOVK/ Autel Maxiscan MS300 (to clear codes) $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BXKZZ8/ MaxCraft 60199 1/4" mini ratchet $9

[Horsey]

Hi would like to thank you for your knowledge it was very helpful. As we know as we get older our eyesight is not the best, I have a Magnifying eye piece I use to use on jewellery to read, and found on closer inspection you cane see how bad the soldering is all the cracks and defects. I thought this might be a bit of more useful information for any one that might have doubt or have the same problem. Thank you once again.

[baj39]

I took the plunge, pulled out the ABS control unit from my 1999 Volvo S80 (203000 Km) and with help from a a handy mechanic attempted the repair procedure offered on this great website. Everything went well until we tried to open the unit. We tried scoring with a utility knife, screw driver, cutting with a hacksaw, to no avail. Finally, we popped up each of the four silver looking round clips that surround the four metal pipes in which the four E5 bolts screw in to hold the unit. Once taken out, the cover came out easily with little tweaking. That was the most taxing part of the job. We then soldered as suggested all the connector pins and flattened with a long nosed pliers the clips on the reverse side where the connector plugs in. Applied clear silicone to put the unit back together and bolted it in after waiting half hour for the silicone to cure. With coffee breaks and lunch, the whole procedure took 4-5 hours. We put the unit back in, cleared the error code and tried the car with no issues. Have been driving for 3 weeks (more than 300 miles), with no lights on. The unit in the S80 controls the ABS, STC and the cruise control. In Canada, the Volvo dealer sells the ABS control module for $1680 plus taxes (ie, about $1900.). Here you go, it is worth to do the repair. And many thanks to the originator of this thread.

[appropriatenoises]

I'm going to give my two cents here. The ABS module out of my 850 is on the bench as I write. Matty Moo (and others who've done this repair a million times), I'd like to hear your opinion on this opinion: The proper way to test a joint is from before the joint in question to the next component using a multimeter set for continuity (assuming there aren't any resistive elements in that path). I'll argue this point because the power pins on mine are perfectly intact.

For example: to test the joint on the back of the power pins, touch the connector side (the pin) with one probe, then follow the trace on the other side of the board to the next component (whether that be a resistor, diode or IC) and see if it rings out. Don't waste your time looking for "cracks" or cold joints, and I don't think it's necessary to reflow every joint on the connector side of the board just because you're in there: You risk burning up a trace for no reason, do you not?

In fact, the problem on mine looks to be the joint on one of the coils (solenoids), and if it's not; if I put the module back in tomorrow and the problem isn't resolved - I'll eat my words.

[abscate]

With MattyMoos track record and support on this board, doing this yourself is for the criminally insane....

You can buy a tested exchange unit fom Matty for a very reasonable rate compared to even the most minimal cost of your own labour.

One humble opinion

[appropriatenoises]

Arguably true, unless you happen to be an audio technician (like me) and understand electronics enough, have the soldering skills, and live in Canada (which would drive up the shipping costs). Unless my labour is worth $60-100/hr, I think my own labour is worth it for a job like this.

abscate, your opinion is possibly true for joe-blow with his dad's soldering iron who doesn't really know what he's doing... it could easily end up looking like the board posted a couple pages ago (the one allegedly repaired by pros!??) But I've seen enough posts on this thread of success stories to force me to humbly disagree with you. This particular fix isn't that hard, and if you can do it in under 2 hours (like I did), I think it's totally worth it.

Same as with any maintenance/repair job on these old cars, whether that be replacing springs, rear endlinks, an exhaust system, or whatever the case may be: If you have the right tools, the time and the knowhow, why send it to a professional? If you're lacking one of those three things, then by all means, let a pro do it. To each his own!

[abscate]

I ordered an exchange from Matty on Friday, and installed on Monday.

The reader can balance the value of two hours labour against a cleaned and tested unit, with lifetime warranty, and decide which is prudent, agreed.

[cardiegoV70]

Thanks for the link to the mini ratchet. I thought I had the right size socket but couldn't get good purchase or leverage. PO admitted taking the unit off and said "I don't THINK I buggered the bolts..."

I think he did. I should look with a dental mirror but it's tight in there!

[egads]

Appropriatenoises, you are spot on. Do the job if you have the tools, time and willingness to pick up the skills required. Same as any other job.

[abscate]

One thing I caught in this repair, from the ALLDATA DIY product

Removing the ABS module...

"the four screws. Use a 6 mm torx external socket. Carefully lift the control module."

The Torx screws on the ABS module are, in fact, E5 (external) Torx screws.