New Modified Transmission Flush Method with Pictures

[hanzbe420]

IC. well in the Manuel it actually says dex IIE so that's dex 2 right? but the dex 3 is compatible with dex2 but i never see anything about dexIIE just II, and on the multivehicle or euro import like the link sais. http://streetperformanceusa.com/i-97390 ... 4AodmD8AwA it says Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is recommended by ExxonMobil for use in applications requiring: GM Dexron IIIH, GM Dexron IIIG, GM Dexron IIE, GM Dexron IID, GM Dexron II, GM Dexron, Ford Mercon, Voith H55. 6335. 3X, MAN 339 V1, Volvo 97340 and Volvo 97341 so the one i put in my car only says.... https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... &mode=view it only says for use were dex II dex III and mercon fluids are specified. so i figure that means it works with IIE. I dont even no what the E means, can anyone explain. And should after the last drain and fill reset the computer and how exactly do i do a relearn proceadure. But i like that mobile 1 multi vehicle it sounds like it would be good. And my short research is seeing allot have switched to mobile syn after they got there fluid clean. I am on my 4th drain and fill with a week in between so a few hundred if not less miles, but the last one was like 3 weeks cause the weather. i think 2 more and it should be good. And how long did it take for it to relearn?

[Ben850]

You are over analyzing the names and types of fluids. For the purposes of getting the system cleaned out use the cheapest DEX III you can find (Walmart is great). Use whatever you care to spend money on after that. But it probably won't be necessary to use anything else after it is clean.

The learning process is mostly mechanical adaptation (fluid preassure, cluch slippage) while the TCM continuously acts and reacts. When shifts become less eratic, it has, for all intents of purposes, "learned" the present working enviroment. With each drain and fill, the "enviroment" changes and adaptations will again be made. Don't rush the process. Be patient, and if your trans is redeemable, it will come around.

I am speaking from my individual experience. This is an extremely long running thread. If you read it from beginning to end, I am not saying anything new.
My car is around the same age, with what I am sure is the same transmission. So Give it a try. Be patient. It worked well for mine.
Good luck

[bricklurv]

I am sorry for the stupid question - but I can not transform the amounts of oil in European standards. What I found out from my dealer here in Bulgaria is that there are 8 liters of oil in the transmission. What I can not understand is how many liters of oil do I need in order to perform this type of oil change? Do I need twice the capacity of the transmission or what?
Actually the same is truth for the machine type of change - is it going to take 8 liters to change it or should I buy more?
Thanks.

Simply 1 US Quart = 946 Ml or 50 Ml short of a Metric Litre so you are 5% less in volume than a Metric Litre.

I actually did this flush using the Hose from IPD on my 740 Wagon draining 3 litres a time into a bucket id marked off at 500 ml increments with a spotter to tell me when to stop and it made a HUGE difference to the shift and response to throttle.

The V40T (1999 Model) is next and as per the thread here im draining the trans from the sump plug first, something that wasn't in the directions on IPD.

Tony

[jonesk1978]

I just bought a 1999 volvo v70 xc awd in December 2012, I don't know if the previous owner has ever had any tranny flushes my question is should I flush it or not it has 181,000 miles on it?

[bricklurv]

I guess its a matter of checking your Trans fluid for discoloration and smell.

If it smells bitter or "Burnt" then yes, If it shows signs of darkness? Then yes.

If its shifting fine and the oil doesnt smell burnt or look burnt then its up to you.

My personal ethos is that if im not sure when servicing was done then I do it anyway so I have a datum point that I can use to set future services and I can also add an oil that I trust instead of whatever was added before you got the car.

Its all down to personal preference.

Tony

[jonesk1978]

Thanks Tony I am going to check Tranny fluid tomorrow, It won't get past second gear so I am checking for causes, I am going to check the PNP switch too, I am also going to get the check engine light code to but right now waiting for ABS sensor to come in mail before I drive it any where.

[JRL]

Probably a bad solenoid, possible PNP but doubtful. However, one never knows on these cars

[jonesk1978]

I was thinking of bad solenoid but that is going to be last on the list as I really don't want to check it do to its location and I would think the computer would throw a code for the solenoid but the only code I get is the bad sensor. I looked at my tranny fluid and its a nice pinkish color so I decided I am not going to mess with it.

[sleekitwan]

Hi, thanks for write up, I took the top tube off my 2003 V70 for the xmission fluid (right hand side looking at the front of the car) and the plastic clip was broken already so had to pull on the pipe, while forcing a small screwdriver in the side, working the pipe out. Painful.

However, with 10mm - i think - tubing inserted to the hole now available (watch - fluid leaks under it if it's not a great fit), and that tube's other end into an old oil carton or whatever sat in the engine bay, fluid pumps out as you say, with the engine running ON THE MK 2 cars.

Apart from this, I just had a funnel dangling on coathanger wire from the open bonnet, with more 10mm (i think?) clear tubing again into the transmission dipstick hole, started the engine and spied through the crack between the open bonnet and the wipers, to watch the brown gook expell, and then nipped round to keep the fresh stuff topped up in the funnel.

Got a bit foamy sometimes, and I forgot to shift the gears while sat there, but I had already emptied 2.25litres the 'old way' from under the car via the transmission sump plug (and refilled with same), then ran the car a few days.

Only extra tip is: assuming the level was correct (check dipstick) before you start this fluid change, MEASURING what comes out is a really accurate way to get the level right in terms of refilling with fresh stuff. So, if your ATF comes in a dark pack, get a measuring tape or ruler maybe, and stick it into the bottom of the container, you can roughly work out how much of that container of fresh fluid you used, from this eg mine were 4.55 litre packs (why?!) and so the fluid started at about 20cm depth, and one of the three containers I used, had 9cm left at the end.

Will save you the math - near as damn, that's 2 litres left. In all, mine took 9 litres to do the 'flush' thing and get the horrid brown muck quite red-looking as it exited the top of the cooler/rad.

I did put in 2.25 litres before as I say, but that was just desperation, because I reckoned the system was manky/maukit/filthy/contaminated (insert suitable colloquial adjective for your part of the world and social class). Even that had definitely helped the transmission though - so that old fluid must have been really 'dead'.

So, budget for basically an extra gallon/4.55litres or whatever flagon of fluid. I used Carlube full synthetic ATF-U because it met spec and was cheapest on Ebay (yes, it was sealed when I got it).

PS this stuff smells like a cross between diesel and week-old Body Odour, it gave me a banging headache, so try not to even breathe in the fumes over the funnel - I had to finally wash my 'judgin' (work) clothes after this job - don't so much as bite your fingernails for a week, this stuff is rank and poisonous.

I know, I should stick to drinking cola.

Good write-up, helped my confidence to do it this way, it's much more convenient than multiple transmission sump-plug type drain/fill. I reckon I got most of any sludge from the first drain anyway, and it was only ambient temp 'cos the car had been on ramps for hours.

Best regards to all.

[janders99]

Help please! I have an '01 C70 (216K) which I believe is an older (not P2) car. I am doing a modified trans flush starting with a drain from the pan; finishing with 4 or so 2-quart expel-refill cycles. However, the trans was replaced in '06. The fittings on the trans cooler do not look like those on many pictures showing the older model fittings. I do not have a metal clip that I would use snap-ring pliers on. Just two large brass fittings - one upper, one lower - with green clips visible holding hoses going in. The top fitting has one half of the green clip broken off - I do not know yet whether I can get it off. I can remove the bottom hose. I do not know whether the top hose or the bottom hose is the exit hose for coolant from the transmission into the cooler. Maybe the new trans in '06 has the different hose flow pattern described in this thread and elsewhere for newer Volvo's. My best idea is to hook up the plastic drain hose (provided with IBD flush kit) to the hose running to the lower cooler fitting and start the car briefly then turn it off. If I have a mess from the open lower cooler hole, I'll know that is coolant intake to the transmission - and the wrong connection for the drain tube. Reconnect the hose to the lower cooler fitting and get the upper fitting loose (perhaps by wedging a small screwdriver into the broken side of the green clip to open it), and connecting it then to the IBD drain tube. IBD provides an extra green clip and O-rings so this works IN THEORY. 2ND QUESTION: my overnight cold trans coolant level showed well up into the "hot" range by the dipstick this morning. Unless I get "don't do it" feedback from this forum, I plan to refill a total of one quart less than I remove from the initial drain; run the car for a short trip (10-15 miles) then measure via dipstick again, and if level reaches into the "hot" region, begin 4 or so iterative 2-quart expel-refill method from there. Any ideas, warnings, considerations or tips?? Thanks in advance to helpful posters here - I've benefitted from many good articles and posts here in the past.