Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

[embe]

Hi Guys

My 1995 T5 is suffering the ABS/Tracs problem. DTC shows codes 121, 311, 321 (left/front ABS sensor) and 124, 314, 324 (right rear ABS sensor). Both of them look ok, so i decided to resolder the ABS module.

The problem is, that my module is different, than those shown in this thread. My modules P/N is 9401542. Its housing is made of alloy, and it's easy to open. I can't find any information about exact points which i should resolder. Any ideas?

[whoa]

On the plastic ones, the failing solders tend to be where the connector pins attach to the circuit board.

[billybob12]

Your right it still does the same problem.. edit**

my friend feels that is it is wheel bearing/ sensor problem (which the wheel bearing was making noises for months) and i am taking it to my mechanic tomorrow will let everyone know by end of week what the real problem was so no one else runs into a confused module problem when it could be a simple dirty sensor or wheel bearing problem leading to that.

[Ozark Lee]

Hi Guys

My 1995 T5 is suffering the ABS/Tracs problem. DTC shows codes 121, 311, 321 (left/front ABS sensor) and 124, 314, 324 (right rear ABS sensor). Both of them look ok, so i decided to resolder the ABS module.

The problem is, that my module is different, than those shown in this thread. My modules P/N is 9401542. Its housing is made of alloy, and it's easy to open. I can't find any information about exact points which i should resolder. Any ideas?

The 95 ('92 to '95) model modules are a completely different animal and the module itself is fairly bulletproof. If the module is giving you codes for the sensors start there first. Often, cleaning up the residue that collects on the toothed reluctance rings on the rear hubs and the front half shaft axles will fix the problems.

If it turns out the module is indeed bad they are dirt cheap at the salvage yards since there is no demand for them.

...Lee

[embe]

Thanks a lot for your answers. I'll start with sensors first. I'll also leave here a reply, if anything new will happen. Cheers

[billybob12]

Just an update it turned out to be my rear wheel bearing which could also throw the ABS light on not just the module. So If anyone has that issue to i would check to see if one of the tires can not spin first before replacing the module.

[kaneelschep]

So.. Today I too, after reading this, found the courage to fix my abs controller.
I got it out quite easily.
I actually wanted to buy the torx socket, but forgot when the local buildersmarket didn't have it.
For those in a european country: The torx socket is not really necessary.
A 4mm socket will fit just as nicely. And most cheap socketsets here include that socket.

I have a turbo model and it is a bit fidly to get the bottom ones out. but They are not very tight. so once crack them loose, you can twist them out by hand just using the socket. Wich saves a lot of room!
I also lifted the airfilterbox so my arm could go underneath it.

When it was out I found this written on it:


So its not the original one for the car and not even a 2wd one..
I do have tracs so thats ok.
Will the 4wd be a problem???

Whatever will be the case, I cracked on opening it.
The washers came off easily when lifting them with a scalpel. And the two halfs seperated easily too..
This showed it had been opened before. there was also some aftermarket sealer in between. I think it was gasket sealer. It is really soft and opened way too easy to seal properly.
The top layer on the circuit board is only removed on the two big solders points on the bottom. So they only soldered that and called it a day I guess.
I will just make the solder flow on all of the contacts on the original page one picture and see what happens.

Can anyone tell me if the 4wd will be a problem???
Thanks!!

[kaneelschep]

So peeling of the silicone of the board took longer then soldering and putting it back in the car, but ok.
I resoldered every connection. Put it together with some ducttape and installed it in the car.
Drove 20 meters and abs light went off and never came back
So I took it out again, cleaned it with some breakcleaner to make it fat-free and sealed it with some nice strong transparant acidfree silicone sealer.
Its drying now. Will go back in in a few hours. The car wont be driven till tomorrow anyway. So then it will be all dry and strong.
Thanks very much for the instructions!!!!!!!!!!

[donis222]

There is a bracket that has a large vacuum hose running through it and the bottom of the air cleaner attaches to it; I removed this bracket to accommodate the 1/4 ratchet. I was able to get to the back outer screw this way.
I have a good soldering pencil (35 watts) and I never uniformly melted the original solder on the 4 main joints. It just dawned on me to use my gun, if I can find it.
I used a dye cutter to cut the lip and then removed some of the plastic at each tube. A utility knife and I had the cover off in 20 minutes.
I also put the unit on without the cover to test it and make sure that it worked. I removed it then and sealed the top.

[deepsouth]

Hey all--
Did this on my 1998 V70 AWD this afternoon. ABS was fuse number four on my V70. Took out the airbox and air pipe (turbo) for easy access. Good time to clean PTC Nipple as well. Used a 1/4 inch drive mini ratchet with E5 from eBay (2.50 plus $2 shipping). Also used former suggestion of screwing down box with four screws and pried lid off with wood chisel (came off with no problem).

Most difficult part for me was getting the old silicon off the power points. That took over and hour and I ended up with about 1000 little pieces. Only found one cracked point but hit them all with solder anyway. A bit of black silicon, several hours to cure, and it's all back together with no tracs and ABS lights!

Great write-up!

Eric