Getting ready for the head tear down. Any tips?

Post by **bags519** » 22 Jun 2013, 12:26

Well i'm going to get the head off the newly acquired 2000 Cross Country tomorrow morning and I am looking for any tips or tricks you guys may have hidden up your sleeves.

I have all the necessary tools, including some home made cam locks.

I've read the Tracy's soaps and watched the Robinson auto you tube. But it never hurts to ask about true life experiences.

I'll be taking pictures thru the process and will post as I go too.

So let me know your thoughts.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 22 Jun 2013, 15:11

Bag and tag everything.

Document the vacuum line routings as you remove things, they are one of the hardest things to figure out on re-assembly. Also note how the PCV lines are run through the brackets, they can be confusing as well.

Lastly, pay special attention to the heat shield mounting on the exhaust manifold, there are different lengths on the springs and bolts.

Other than that it is pretty straightforward and you have a couple of good resources.

...Lee

Post by **erikv11** » 22 Jun 2013, 16:20

Its a 2000 so make sure you understand VVT.

For the head bolts, you need a 14 mm, 6 point socket and tons of leverage. I have found that the cheapo impact sockets at Walmart are the perfect size for those bolts. A quality impact is too thick and won't fit in the hole to reach the bolt head. The cheapos are more than burly enough to do the job. $20 for the set, all I've ever used is the 14 mm.

skloon · Post by **skloon** » 22 Jun 2013, 21:54

jack the car up realy high otherwise your back will be killing you

Post by **bags519** » 22 Jun 2013, 22:55

I hear that. It will be on stands no doubt about..

Thanks guys

Post by **bags519** » 07 Jul 2013, 20:41

I can't ever let anything rest, I'm too damn anal about stuff.. So what's says bonding like having your 14 year old daughter help you break down a cylinder head and lapping valves with you..lol

Below are my trusty house brewed compressor, a lapping tool from the last time I did this (68 Olds Cutlass my first car, I'm getting old it was 1985) and the compound. A before and after and all my lovely finished valves clean up and waiting for my damn gasket set to show up.

If I'm lucky I'll have everything wrapped up after next Sunday.

Post by **abscate** » 08 Jul 2013, 04:31

So what's says bonding like having your 14 year old daughter

If it gets better than that, let me know please.....

Post by **bags519** » 08 Jul 2013, 09:22

She wants to be an engineer. So god bless her, she wouldn't do it if she didn't want to.. She along with my other two are actually very mechanically inclined. They enjoy wrenching with their dad..

To give you an idea my oldest daughter changed the fuel pump in her boyfriends Passat a month ago, funny thing is it was in the parking lot of advanced auto on the their way to the outer banks..

Post by **cn90** » 08 Jul 2013, 09:50

I have a question for the valve guru...

1. No. of valves replaced: If you have let's say 1 burned EXHAUST valve, do you replace only that valve or all 10?

2. Brand name: Volvo valves are expensive ($60/each!), however, has anyone here used "Osvat" or "Intervalve" brand?

Post by **bags519** » 08 Jul 2013, 10:55

I'm no guru that's for sure, but I would pull a head from the pic a part and scavenge from it. I can pull a head local for $50 tops if the guy running it is cranky.

I would think you would only replace the burnt valve and fix the cause of it.

I had to replace none, and don't know about the aftermarket valves.

But that's just me... I would prefer OEM used and then reconditioned over unknown.