Tips For S60 2.4T Oil Trap Replacement (In Progress)

[velorider]

Finished the install of the oil trap last night. Assembly was almost the reverse of disassembly, except for the banjo bolt on the bottom of the manifold.

Assemble Tips

Getting the manifold banjo bolt out is much easier then installing it because you're concerned about dropping the top crush washer and you need to align the threads properly. There is very little room to work and the resistance of the PVC hose makes aligning the threads very difficult. I found it easier to remove the power steering pump and alternator from the accessory mount. You don't need to removing them from the car, just disconnect them from the accessory mount. With them out of the way the banjo bolt is simple.



When I started the car the first time, it was slow to start and stalled out after a few seconds. Restarted again without problems. Ran a little rough for a minute or so and then smoothed out. I noticed the TCV clicking like crazy for a minute before it stopped. I wasn't sure if it destroyed itself and stopped clicking or it just stopped clicking. I googled around and found a few posts on clicking TCV. One mentioned his clicking after replacing the oil trop too. I'm not sure it's related to the oil trap but a lot was done so I'm sure the ECM was a little confused when it first started up.

When I started this project it was burring about 1 quart even 1K miles. The old oil trapped wasn't to clogged nor where any of the hoses and orifices, so I'll be interested to see if the oil consumption changes. The oil cap rubber seal hasn't been replaced for a least 80K miles, I don't know they harden. So I replaced it and could tell the difference in the sealing of the oil cap. So maybe a lot of oil fumes and spillage escaped through there. Time will tell.

In the end the following was done:

1. Replace Oil Trap and related hoses
2. Replace $$$ PVC hose
3. Rebuilt the vacuum hose assembly that connects to the center top manifold and air intake hose with high quality hose
4. New Plugs
5. Cleaned PTC value
6. Cleaned throttle body
7. IPD Silicone Top Engine Mount, "new and improve" square mount lasted lest then 2 years. <--- more vibration during idle


Conclusion:

Since most owners will properly only do this once, it's a tedious job. Not overly difficult but does have its challenges. A lot of parts have to come off to complete the job and a lot to remember to reconnect. As the old saying good, the right tools make all the difference. A full set 1/4 and 3/8 extensions is a must. Along with a complete set of 1/4 inch wobble extensions. I like the Volvo crimp style clamps, so a tool to crimp them is needed.

Good luck to the next guy. I wish I could transfer my knowledge because it's useless to me since I'll probably never have to do an oil trap again.

[Stacey57]

I have successfully done this job as well and from experience I shall share a possible work around for a small clog or dirty box. I have done this successfully on my S 60. It worth a try rather than remove the whole intake manifold. Remove the top PCV hose under the spark plug cover, gently orientate the hose to manipulate a long tranny fluid funnel into the hose. Pour some Seafoam or Marvel mystery oil into the box maybe 4-6 or less, the box isn't that large. Let it sit there maybe 10-12 minutes, use either an electric pump or a small hand pump with a hose long enough to get into the box. Pump out the fluid and it remove the old dirty oil and debris that is clogged in there. Worth a try. The only thing I ever noticed on doing this flush out was a high idle on start up that cleared in a minute or two
ALSO NOTE WELL take care in manipulating the top breather hose so as not to pull it off the box. A properly factory installed hose and breather should be securely mounted enough for you to turn the breather or to a side or slightly enough to pour the cleansing flushing chemical into the box
Well this is what volvo does design a $30 plastic box under a manifold and various other stuff that takes 4- 6 hours , plus to remove and re intall

[Tonyx]

What a great idea - if the point of the job is to clear the obstruction in the PCV box, why not pour solvent down the hose that goes down to the box? Seafoam is safe for engine so do this followed by an oil change should accomplish the goal.

[mikealder]

The main issue I had was the oil return port in the engine block which is where oil scavenged by the PCV tank returns to the sump, if this port is blocked you won't dissolve it and won't fix the PCV issue by pouring degreasers/ carb cleaner down in to the PCV tank.

One tip if you have the PCV tank off the car is to connect a length of 5/8" rubber hose to the lower PCV tank port engine block connection and try to blow through the other end of the pipe, if you can hear the oil in the sump pan bubbling it is free of obstructions, if you can't blow through it you need to clear it out. In my case this resulted in removing the sump to clear out a bad blockage.

Second tip, to disconnect the difficult banjo bolt from the inlet manifold just above the alternator try using a 17MM ratchet ring spanner to crack the banjo bolt, once loose a short "stubby" 17MM can be a real handy tool to use to finish the banjo bolt removal. No real tips for putting this back on other than to leave the manifold sat on the lower attachment bolts so you can move the inlet manifold around a little as this helps to get the banjo bolt thread started but it isn't easy, last one I did took about 30 min to get the banjo bolt back in with the alternator and PAS pump still in place - Mike

[jesters7]

Great thread guys. Thank you all for sharing advise. Will attempt soon!

[oragex]

Thanks for the tips too, guys. Soon it's my turn, so the writing is of great help

[jt1432]

Amazing write up guys! I am about to attempt this on my 2003 s60 2.4T. I will try and add to this guide because I can't find anything really on the 2003 S60 2.4T. If I get the chance I will try and consolidate this thread into a single handy guide with more pictures as well.

~Justin

[boosted+]

any more data wanted to help with these PCV trap replacements?

Here's my '05 XC70 that has 138k on it. Just bought it and it appears to have been run in cold climate (Michigan) with few oil changes. A shame really because the rest of the car is in great shape.

Step 1 getting everything out of the way

I noticed right away that my upper crankcase hose from trap to crankcase that I purchased is the wrong one. The one on the car is much larger. A later design?

Another pic of everything peeled back

PCV trap and hose that I mis ordered

And finally, a few pics of just how badly the late models can clog up...

The crankcase vent hole almost completely plugged

The lower rubber bushing adapter - 95% plugged

Clogged Trap hole...

And a pic of the tool I found most useful for snaking around and getting to the bottom intake bolts and the bottom Trap bolt between alternator bracket and the trap.

10mm on a 1/4" drive wobble and flex joint

If anyone is interested I will post pics of it going back together.

[abscate]

That might be a different insulation on the OEM connector..are you sure your parts won't fit?

That is nasty plugged for a P2. Don't forget to clean the oil drain passage in the block. Tough job but must be done if you have that much junk.

[Pittsjock]

Boosted -

I have done three of these PCV's on two different 2007 XC70's. The first car was my wife's that we bought new and used Volvo service until around 100k. The PCV system started failing at that point (7,500 mile recommended oil changes are no good with Castrol non-synthetic) and became a real problem by 120k or so, with the car throwing MAF codes and the dealership throwing new sensors at it and draining my wallet. I finally decided to diagnose the problem myself and sites like this led me to the PCV. I originally only cleaned the engine inlet ports and the breather box and replaced the same broken section of the vent hose the the OP had issues with.

This "fix" lasted until about 150k, when we started having troubles again (oil consumption, leaks) so we dropped the pan and cleaned the passages out and replaced the breather box and associated rubber hoses but NOT the lovely $170 vent hose. All was well for another 30k but once again, we started having problems. This time, we saw a modest coolant leak, but no evidence of leakage and strong evidence of pressurization of the crankcase - messy engine and oil consumption. I finally replaced the vent hose and, like magic, all is well in the world.

Volvo #2 is also a 2007 XC70 (130k) that I bought in November from the original owner. His story was similar to mine and the PCV system was totally blocked and oil was everywhere. I didn't mess with this, replacing the whole PCV system and dropping the pan at the same time. You can't clean the return passages without dropping the pan - period. The passage through the motor and pan is cast, a bit rough and takes a fair amount of scrubbing and solvents to remove the buildup. Once in the pan, the passage turns 90 degrees and then opens up, although there are baffles that block good access. Not easy to clean well. Volvo #2 runs great, now on synthetic and the PCV system should be good for another 100k +.

You are there, so go ahead and do it all once.