Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

Post by **Matty Moo** » 04 Sep 2013, 19:47

Not necessarily.

Remember, your car is 18 years old. The ABS module controls the ABS system, but isn't the ABS system if that make sense. You still have 5 other circuits. Four wheel sensor circuits and a pump motor circuit.

You have a 96 so you also have that flimsy harness at the pump motor.

CamZH · Post by **CamZH** » 04 Sep 2013, 21:48

Don't remind me !
When the ABS light comes on, should she be showing error codes ?
I've had no luck with OBD scanners and my 850, but got a Bluetooth ELM327 unit on its way which i'm hoping will work.
I'll be taking the 850 out and about over the weekend, so I'll be able to see how she performs.

fingers crossed !

Post by **deepsouth** » 18 Sep 2013, 15:11

Hey all--
Just did my second module repair (on my 1998 S70). Everything went smoothly. Put back together and speedo didn't work and ABS light still on. Checked the connections and found the hinge (main connector) wasn't seated correctly (side slides weren't pushed all the way in). Seated correctly all is well and no more tracs/ABS lights. Touchdown for another successful repair. AWESOME writeup!
Eric

Spiney · Post by **Spiney** » 19 Sep 2013, 06:43

Replaced my ABS Module on Saturday. Watched the video first on Midwest ABS site. Except for some scraped hands job went smoothly on our 98 V70 wagon.

Haven't seen the ABS Tracs light come back on in 5 days. Our brake pedal seems firmer.

Thank you Matt for your service. Having the correct socket was a Godsend. Luckily non of our bolt heads were stripped.

I removed my positive battery lead before I started.

$14 Craftsman small socket set

Removed corrugated pipe

Where the ABS sits on a 98 V70

The removed module

ABS area with the module removed

hyp2bsqr · Post by **hyp2bsqr** » 19 Sep 2013, 20:52

Just thought I would add my personal experience to the dead speedometer / ABS issue. So I removed the module which was simple enough with a short 1/4" ratchet and E5 Torx socket. That part is a 15 minute job.

After you remove the module it has some finessing to get the unit apart without destroying the case edges. There are four steel tubes that the E5 screws fit through. These tubes have a bite clip that helps hold the module seal closed. Using a sharp machinist chisel I was able to pry these off and save them for reuse:) Then I used two short but wide flat bladed screwdrivers to pry the module open.

Under close examination with 30x magnifying lenses I found many of the solder joints to be "cold" including the power pins. Now I have been soldering for 40 years so I've got it down and there are certain things I just do out of habit. In this case it included desoldering all the pins using a solder sucker (braid works awesome too). The key is to have a soldering iron that has enough oomph to get the job done. A skinny pencil tip isn't going to cut it. What you will end up doing with that is over heat the joints, foul the solder and ruin your chances for success.

Once everything was desoldered I inspected for copper damage to the board and thankfully there was none. To ensure the best power pin connection I took a knife and scraped some of the etch resist (the green stuff on the board) off down to bare copper around the power pins. This allowed me to apply more solder to the power pins and increase heat dissipation if the load spiked high.

All in all the job took me 90 minutes but now I have a happy V70R with a working speedometer. An additional note is that my car is a Canadian car and the dash lights did not show ABS or TRACS or any other such indicator other that the CEL or in my case LAMBDA light was lit.

Anyway that's it. Thanks for such a great repository of information.

Hyp

harryj · Post by **harryj** » 22 Sep 2013, 20:16

I just removed the abs module and on the fire wall screw on the module I used whats called a palm ratchet with a e-5 socket on it

johnRogers0014 · Post by **johnRogers0014** » 22 Sep 2013, 20:25

I hit 3 resistors because my knife was to deep. Ouch ;(

Post by **xtrattitude4u** » 23 Sep 2013, 11:23

hyp2bsqr wrote: In this case it included desoldering all the pins using a solder sucker (braid works awesome too). The key is to have a soldering iron that has enough oomph to get the job done. A skinny pencil tip isn't going to cut it. What you will end up doing with that is over heat the joints, foul the solder and ruin your chances for success.

+1.

I also desoldered the pins and the results are much better.
I used a 40 watt desoldering iron, and it seemed almost too much for the smaller pins,
but seemed barely enough for the power pins.
If I had to do it again, I would use a 30 watt on the smaller pins and a 50 watt on the power pins.
I got a tube of clear windshield silicone to seal up the board when I was finished.

This was one of the most enjoyable repairs I've done on my Volvo.
It saves you a lot of time and money to do this repair yourself, not to mention the safety factor.
Someone turned in front of me a couple weeks after this repair.
I just needed a new bumper after the accident, but it could have been worse without functioning ABS.

kaneelschep · Post by **kaneelschep** » 09 Oct 2013, 03:36

I did this fix just before the summer and had no abs light come up again.
Then went for a holiday to a very hot country. 40+ degrees celcius.
During the 1000 miles trip the light came back on. And during the month of holiday it came on more and more.
Now when I start the light mostly goes off. But when i start again it stays on.
So I am afraid I will have to take it apart again.

What can I use to coat the electronicsboard up again??
Thanks!

kaneelschep · Post by **kaneelschep** » 09 Oct 2013, 06:12

Ah. I just checked out the wiring and found that the seperate two-lined cable has completely deteriorated. Well the insulation that is.
Has anyone discovered how to get the plastic black cover of the Abs pump? Then I can renew the cable's insulation all the way.

Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

Re: Do it yourself ABS module repair.