What to do with a now 245K Volvo purchased in Jan 2012 with enough minor issues that it can't be sold and yet due to financial restraints it needs to be kept running without putting any more money in further unless it was absolutely necessary? It still runs well and was able to passed the CA smog but now has a Water Pump leak?
Tried a temp fix but was very temp
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=59519
Perhaps this may be obvious to the seasoned DIY'er's or even some regular guys like me but after mulling it over and with the help of a couple of links I decided to tackle the Water Pump replacement by removing only the Hydraulic Tensioner. There were many other excellent links in the various Volvo forums (this one included) that some may find to be more helpful but the following provided me with the larger picture of what I needed to do.
The first picture in this site provided a clear view of the location of the Water Pump though the motor did not use the Hydraulic Tensioner.
http://wakingupthemoose.blogspot.com/20 ... chive.html
This helped expose the entire assembly and showed that only Tensioner removal was necessary to get to the Water Pump
- Courtesy of eEuroparts.com
- 1 - 1998 Volvo S70 Timing Belt Parts Diagram.JPG (101.48 KiB) Viewed 9394 times
Good full picture of the job. The bungee cord was helpful for Tensioner removal and re-installation
http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... hange.html
Volvo Timing Belt Replacement, S70, 850, V70 (Part 1 of 2) – Robert Spinners video at 10:47 gave me a clear picture of the timing marks on the Crank. I could not find it at first even after going over the various Forums. Then, with the Crank in my car being aluminum in color, regardless of the lighting or angle I still could barely make out its existance even after knowing where it is suppose to be or look like. There was one other issue and that was the white markings left on the Timing Cover and Crank by the previous Timing Belt job did no match the Notches in either location. I finally decided to trust the info in the various links or what the factory specified and so went ahead and repositioned the Cams and Crank accordingly and reset the belt. Thank God it fire up the first time around!
Here are some of the pictures:
Initially used previous white marks to keep timing than discovered in “rspi’s” video where it should be. Not sure why the car ran or for that matter fairly well. Now seems to be running even better in E Mode whereas the car only had pep in S Mode for the last 1½ year.
This leaking pump is from the first owner and seemed ok but the gasket were in half a dozen sections. By deducing the Carfax and tow company information the first owner had all work done at the Dealer and the second owner did nothing but trashed the car as indicative by the state it was in when I acquired it.
Old Tensioner Re-used
New pump from bottom – Tensioner still out
New pump from top
New pump from top – Tensioner in or was that going in - The bungee cord hard at work
The hardest parts of this job were:
1) Yes, locating the 2 Crank Timing Gear marks on the back of the tooth
2) The Notch on the Block where the 2 Crank Timing Marks were to fall between
3) Cleaning the surface on the block of old WP gasket
4) Making sure the Water Pump gasket had seated properly as the Pump got held up on the back Timing Cover and you can't visually see if it had seated flush with the Block
So if your Water Pump is leaking, your Timing Belt and the other parts are not ready to be replaced again don't take it all apart just remove the Tensioner.
Blessings,
BKM
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153k
