IPD sale XeMODeX - Experts in Volvo Electronics Free shipping all USA - Experts in Brakes
Did you know? 🤔
Logged in users can get email notification of topic replies Log in or register (free).
Amazon Link Buy your stuff using this and it helps MVS!

1998 S70 - Replace Water Pump w/Tensioner Removal Only

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

User avatar
MoVolvos
Posts: 2137
Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:47 pm
Year and Model: 03S80T6~08C30T5
Location: NC
Has thanked: 26 times
Been thanked: 51 times
United States of America
MoVolvos

Volvo Repair Database 1998 S70 - Replace Water Pump w/Tensioner Removal Only

Post by MoVolvos » Wed Dec 04, 2013 2:36 am

-

What to do with a now 245K Volvo purchased in Jan 2012 with enough minor issues that it can't be sold and yet due to financial restraints it needs to be kept running without putting any more money in further unless it was absolutely necessary? It still runs well and was able to passed the CA smog but now has a Water Pump leak?

Tried a temp fix but was very temp
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=59519

Perhaps this may be obvious to the seasoned DIY'er's or even some regular guys like me but after mulling it over and with the help of a couple of links I decided to tackle the Water Pump replacement by removing only the Hydraulic Tensioner. There were many other excellent links in the various Volvo forums (this one included) that some may find to be more helpful but the following provided me with the larger picture of what I needed to do.

The first picture in this site provided a clear view of the location of the Water Pump though the motor did not use the Hydraulic Tensioner.
http://wakingupthemoose.blogspot.com/20 ... chive.html


This helped expose the entire assembly and showed that only Tensioner removal was necessary to get to the Water Pump
1 - 1998 Volvo S70 Timing Belt Parts Diagram.JPG

Good full picture of the job. The bungee cord was helpful for Tensioner removal and re-installation
http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... hange.html


Volvo Timing Belt Replacement, S70, 850, V70 (Part 1 of 2) – Robert Spinners video at 10:47 gave me a clear picture of the timing marks on the Crank. I could not find it at first even after going over the various Forums. Then, with the Crank in my car being aluminum in color, regardless of the lighting or angle I still could barely make out its existance even after knowing where it is suppose to be or look like. There was one other issue and that was the white markings left on the Timing Cover and Crank by the previous Timing Belt job did no match the Notches in either location. I finally decided to trust the info in the various links or what the factory specified and so went ahead and repositioned the Cams and Crank accordingly and reset the belt. Thank God it fire up the first time around!



Here are some of the pictures:

Initially used previous white marks to keep timing than discovered in “rspi’s” video where it should be. Not sure why the car ran or for that matter fairly well. Now seems to be running even better in E Mode whereas the car only had pep in S Mode for the last 1½ year.
2 - IMG_0886.jpg

This leaking pump is from the first owner and seemed ok but the gasket were in half a dozen sections. By deducing the Carfax and tow company information the first owner had all work done at the Dealer and the second owner did nothing but trashed the car as indicative by the state it was in when I acquired it.
3 - IMG_0891.jpg

Old Tensioner Re-used
4 - IMG_0893.jpg

New pump from bottom – Tensioner still out
5 - IMG_0890.jpg

New pump from top
6 - IMG_0888.jpg

New pump from top – Tensioner in or was that going in - The bungee cord hard at work
7 - IMG_0894.jpg

The hardest parts of this job were:
1) Yes, locating the 2 Crank Timing Gear marks on the back of the tooth
2) The Notch on the Block where the 2 Crank Timing Marks were to fall between
3) Cleaning the surface on the block of old WP gasket
4) Making sure the Water Pump gasket had seated properly as the Pump got held up on the back Timing Cover and you can't visually see if it had seated flush with the Block

So if your Water Pump is leaking, your Timing Belt and the other parts are not ready to be replaced again don't take it all apart just remove the Tensioner.


Blessings,

BKM

-
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

JimBee
Posts: 1732
Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 9:23 pm
Year and Model: 93 and 2 96 850's
Location: Minneapolis
Has thanked: 13 times
Been thanked: 22 times
United States of America
JimBee

Re: 1998 S70 - Replace Water Pump w/Tensioner Removal Only

Post by JimBee » Wed Dec 04, 2013 4:22 pm

The photos are really helpful. You forged ahead and got it done.

I have a couple of suggestions based on having done several.
While cleaning up the mating surface on the block (a pain, but necessary), I squeezed a thin bead of Permatex water pump sealant on the PUMP side of the gasket, pressed the gasket onto the sealant and let it set for a while (an hour?). I put a light weight on the gasket to hold it while the sealant started to set up. This step assured me the gasket was sort of glued onto the pump flange so I didn't have to guess whether it was moving as I lined it up and put bolts in.
I torqued the bolts to spec. It was late by then so let it set over night. Re-torqued the bolts the next morning and glad I did. They had a little "give". It has never leaked. And if I should need to replace it, MAYBE the gasket will mostly stick to the pump flange when the pump comes off.

Here's another way to manage the belt during installation.
BEFORE REMOVING OLD BELT: position the crank sprocket on timing mark.
As you pointed out, the crank sprocket timing marks are extremely hard to see. But it's crucial to get them properly positioned at the line on the motor. I think it's on the oil pump case.

If it had been properly timed, your camshaft sprockets would also be on their marks. My first 850 was off one tooth when I bought it.
It's easy for that to happen when a new belt is installed if you don't:
1) begin with the crank pulley timing marks properly aligned. I pulled my balancer and the crank sprocket, put some whiteout on the timing mark so I'll always be able to see it.
2) get the new timing belt tight from the crank pulley to the intake camshaft sprocket. This is the step some people (DIY'ers and techs too) sometimes skip and end up guessing then letting it be a little off rather than remove the tensioner and start over.

How to get the cam sprockets spot on first time: you need a lever that will allow you to turn the intake (and later the exhaust cam sprockets) with some light force. The lever is just a flat bar with a couple of 1/4" bolts that go through the holes in the cam sprockets.
Thread the new belt from crank up over idler and up and over the intake sprocket. It's loose at that point. If you try to get it hand tight then thread the TB over the exhaust sprocket, again getting it hand tight, then over the water pump sprocket, when you release the tensioner the belt will move, and the sprockets will move. If you guessed right how much they will move when you put the belt over the cam sprockets they will land exactly on the timing marks. Voila, you're done!
Trouble is it's easy to guess wrong how much everything will move when you pull the pin.

Eliminate the guess work by getting the new belt "twang tight" from the crank to the intake cam with the intake cam exactly on it's mark.
Lightly wedge something under crank sprocket to keep the new belt seated in the sprocket teeth (or have a helper hold it in place).
Adjust the intake sprocket CW a bit and slip the belt on. Now use a lever tool to torque the sprocket CCW 'til tight. The TB has no stretch so when it's tight it just stops. It doesn't take a lot of force to get it that tight, but most people can't do it by hand.
Now, holding it there with your lever, is the intake sprocket mark exactly on the notch? It will be close or a tooth off. If it's a tooth off, back off the tension, move the sprocket one tooth on the belt and re-tighten it with your lever. Right on? Great. Now at about 1:00 o'clock on the intake sprocket (not 11:00 as in your picture) use a zip tie (or tiny vice grip with light pressure) to keep the belt teeth seated at that position on the sprocket.
Next, slip the belt onto the exhaust sprocket, pull it tight with your lever. Marks exactly aligned? Great. If not, slip belt back off sprocket, move sprocket one tooth, then belt back on and tighten. Move your tiny vice grip to the exhaust sprocket (about 11:00 o'clock) to keep it seated on the sprocket.
Lastly, for belt installation, thread it over your water pump sprocket.
REMOVE the wedge that's under the crank sprocket. You can do this after you pull the pin just don't forget it's there.
Pull the pin.

If you think about these steps for the timing belt part of the job, they're really quite easy and you'll always get the belt on right first time with minimal frustration. And probably in about 15 minutes with the tensioner preset.

EXCEPT if somebody had the sprockets off the cams and switched them when they put them back on.
Then you need a way to align the camshafts—either from their back ends or see my post: how to replace timing belt without a locking tool.

cn90
Posts: 6672
Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:54 am
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
Location: Omaha NE
Has thanked: 0
Been thanked: 124 times
United States of America
cn90

Re: 1998 S70 - Replace Water Pump w/Tensioner Removal Only

Post by cn90 » Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:03 pm

1. The WP issue:
- Yes, clean the mating surface well and smooth
- No, you don't need to use any RTV sealant, which can back-fire on you. If you use Aisin WP (which comes with green gasket) or Volvo gasket ---> no need for any RTV. The car came from factory with Aisin gasket installed dry.

2. The zip tie:
Note the direction of the hydraulic tensioner (RED arrow), if you pull a ziptie in the same direction (BLUE line) PRIOR to tensioner removal, then you will be fine.

TB.JPG
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

User avatar
erikv11
Posts: 9482
Joined: Sat Jul 25, 2009 2:03 pm
Year and Model: 850, S/V70, 06 S60R
Location: Iowa
Has thanked: 81 times
Been thanked: 245 times
United States of America
erikv11

Re: 1998 S70 - Replace Water Pump w/Tensioner Removal Only

Post by erikv11 » Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:40 pm

Or just pull both rollers anyway, and remove the serp belt tensioner too. That opens up a lot more room to work in there, including for cleaning the water pump surface. And you get to line up all the timing marks fresh when you put it back together.
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 285k
'06 S60 R, 165k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 125k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k

User avatar
rspi
Posts: 7247
Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 10:40 am
Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Has thanked: 19 times
Been thanked: 40 times
United States of America
rspi

Re: 1998 S70 - Replace Water Pump w/Tensioner Removal Only

Post by rspi » Wed Dec 04, 2013 7:44 pm

Nice job. After doing several belts, you really don't mind pulling the belt off. I didn't pull the belt when I did a head gasket job. LOL

I seen one post or video where a guy changed the cam seals without pulling the belt. He clamped the belt on one cam sprocket while doing the other. He did one at a time in maybe 40 minutes.

I really liked your use of the zip ties.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg
'98 S70 GLT, Lil' Red 25/32 mpg
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

User avatar
MoVolvos
Posts: 2137
Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:47 pm
Year and Model: 03S80T6~08C30T5
Location: NC
Has thanked: 26 times
Been thanked: 51 times
United States of America
MoVolvos

Re: 1998 S70 - Replace Water Pump w/Tensioner Removal Only

Post by MoVolvos » Thu Dec 05, 2013 1:31 am

rspi wrote:
I really liked your use of the zip ties.
They were leftovers either from the Factory Alarm or AC installs from my short lived 6 month career in 96 at an the Acura Dealership. They are very strong and reusable! Use to have a drawer full now just a dozen or so left.

Thanks for the tips JimBee. I thought about the RTV but hate cleaning those in case I did not replace the WP correctly the first time.

Your drawing skills are excellent as are your write ups cn90. Very systematic, well laid out and organize. I did use the Rubber Bungee through out the process to keep tension on the entire belt assembly and to help keep the pulley out of the way of the WP. The zip tie would have been good as the Bungee did slip off quite frequently and you really don't need to move that pulley through out the entire process if I recall.

Blessings,

BKM

-
Blessings,

BKM

1998 S70 T5 - Donated
2003 S80 T6
2003 GS300
2003 Odyssey
2008 C30 T5
2019 Atlas SE 4 Motion

User avatar
abscate
MVS Moderator
Posts: 20033
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:54 pm
Year and Model: 99T5 ,99S70,2005V70
Location: NYC, ALBANY NY
Has thanked: 273 times
Been thanked: 852 times
Trinidad & Tobago
abscate

Re: 1998 S70 - Replace Water Pump w/Tensioner Removal Only

Post by abscate » Thu Dec 05, 2013 4:39 am

I hate to write this but there have been some bad reviews of URO parts reported here. Did you vet this water pump brand before install? I though Asin was the choice of experience for the water pump.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 BMW
Link to Maintenance record thread
Link To Volvo Glossary

User avatar
MoVolvos
Posts: 2137
Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:47 pm
Year and Model: 03S80T6~08C30T5
Location: NC
Has thanked: 26 times
Been thanked: 51 times
United States of America
MoVolvos

Re: 1998 S70 - Replace Water Pump w/Tensioner Removal Only

Post by MoVolvos » Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:53 pm

-
abscate wrote:I hate to write this but there have been some bad reviews of URO parts reported here. Did you vet this water pump brand before install? I though Asin was the choice of experience for the water pump.
URO Parts 30751700 Water Pump $39.63
http://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-3075170 ... Water+Pump

Not sure how much life is left in this car? Can't sell it for much but don't want to just let it fall apart either so just trying to nurse it along.

As for my first 2 URO experience: FCP is sending a replacement (URO 24 month guarantee) for an Engine Mount (1.5 year). The interior is rattling at idle again - definitely annoying. Hope they will approve/follow through with the warranty after I send it back (shipping on me). The URO Expansion Tank (1.5 year) has fine hairline cracks. URO? Hope the WP fairs better as many other brands I saw online use the same (Stock?) photo so I was willing to give it a try.

Blessings,

BKM

-
Blessings,

BKM

1998 S70 T5 - Donated
2003 S80 T6
2003 GS300
2003 Odyssey
2008 C30 T5
2019 Atlas SE 4 Motion

User avatar
matthew1
Site Admin
Posts: 10241
Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2002 11:03 am
Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
Location: Denver, Colorado, US
Has thanked: 506 times
Been thanked: 189 times
United States of America
matthew1

Re: 1998 S70 - Replace Water Pump w/Tensioner Removal Only

Post by matthew1 » Wed Dec 11, 2013 1:17 am

Beautiful DIY, BKM. It's in the Repair Database and your account is MVS Contributor. :-)
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a kickback.

1997 850 T5, MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace [gone]
2004 V70 R [gone]

Image

User avatar
MoVolvos
Posts: 2137
Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:47 pm
Year and Model: 03S80T6~08C30T5
Location: NC
Has thanked: 26 times
Been thanked: 51 times
United States of America
MoVolvos

Re: 1998 S70 - Replace Water Pump w/Tensioner Removal Only

Post by MoVolvos » Thu Dec 12, 2013 3:02 am

-
matthew1 wrote:Beautiful DIY, BKM. It's in the Repair Database and your account is MVS Contributor. :-)
Wow, a Contributor thanks Matthew! Not sure it deserves to be in the Database as without the other's leg work I would not have come up with this short cut. Thanks for the encouragement none the less.

Blessings,

BKM

-
Blessings,

BKM

1998 S70 T5 - Donated
2003 S80 T6
2003 GS300
2003 Odyssey
2008 C30 T5
2019 Atlas SE 4 Motion

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post