1996 850na What's hardest part of changing exhaust manifold?

[JimBee]

I'm looking at purchasing a new manifold due to a leaky flex joint and would like to tackle it myself but I'd like to know where I'm most likely to get stuck so I have a plan of attack.

The one time I've actually removed an exhaust manifold from an 850 n/a I remember the two lower bolts of the heat collector. That was a donor car that I was stripping so there was no need for finessing. I think I finally just ripped it out. Memory of details is vague as that was 5 years ago.

Jreed, I think, suggests using an impact to get them out. But how do you get an impact driver in that space?

Another suggests heating them with a butane torch after dousing them with WD 40.

What about the 4 exhaust pipe to manifold nuts? Do they get rusty?

[rmmagow]

Very much the same issue, 98 S70 N/A. My indy quoted me $175.00, I provide the part. I looked in there and with a lift I'd go after it but for $175.00 I'm letting a pro do it. Very small Volvo shop, not a main line indy.

[cn90]

I replaced the Exhaust Manifold a few years ago, I wrote a DIY below:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/14 ... placement/

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=40032

1. Brand: I went with Volvo b/c aftermarket was a toss-up.
However, look into "OBX" brand etc.
This is not a job you want to do twice.

Another source is "Swedish auto lamps for less":
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-850-S70-V ... 0459537938

2. The gaskets: use only Volvo gaskets, anything can leak and you will "hear" about it pronto!

3. The bolts @ the manifold, they usually come out without any issues.

4. The 4 bolts at the flex joint:
- Drive the car up some ramps for good clearance.
- Wear goggles!!!
- Spray with some WD-40 and let it sit for a good hour.
- A propane torch (the same stuff plumbers use) is a must, about $12 at hardware store.

[JimBee]

The two bolts at the confluence of the 5 pipes are the ones that concern me the most. Does propane heat and maybe some WD 40 (or PB Blaster?) help release them as well?

Are the 4 nuts on the lower flange to exhaust pipe brass?

[erikv11]

I've taken off the exhaust manifold a few times. The two bolts on the bracket I've not had trouble with. The four on the flange can be crustier but I've always been able to get them pretty much first time using 1/2 drive sockets and a swivel. I'm almost certain they are not brass. And lots of PBblaster or your favorite solvent. Never used an impact in that area.

+1 to cn90's comments.

[JimBee]

Comments are helpful and appreciated, as usual!

I'm glad to know at least a couple of DIY'ers haven't had a problem with the 2 lower heat collector bolts.

So I'm thinking my approach will be to start with those two bolts that defeated me on the '93 I scavenged, then the remainder of the heat collector. Next the 4 exhaust pipe bolts. From there the main flange bolts shouldn't be too bad. If I get stuck at the outset it's still driveable to the muffler shop to have them do it.

[xHeart]

Thank you for this timely post JimBee.
It looks easier than replacing steering rack.
I will go with all Volvo parts.

Happy holidays.

[cn90]

xHeart,

Volvo OEM is about $400.
In the ebay link I posted above, the seller is the same as the seller for the "$40 Heater Core" from Estonia what works great in volvospeed thread.

This Exhaust Manifold (made in Estonia) has sold more than 75 of them, and at $139.95, the price is very tempting.

[xHeart]

xHeart,

Volvo OEM is about $400.
In the ebay link I posted above, the seller is the same as the seller for the "$40 Heater Core" from Estonia what works great in volvospeed thread.

This Exhaust Manifold (made in Estonia) has sold more than 75 of them, and at $139.95, the price is very tempting.

A very attractive price for complete kit.
Would Volvo gasket a better choice?

[Matty Moo]

I replaced mine with an Obx manifold. Compared to a turbo it's relatively easy to install. I wouldn't over think it.