New owner

Post by **am0220** » 14 Jan 2004, 18:40

Just bought this car over the weekend. Love the car!

Have a couple questions:

1) Driver's side wheel makes a bumping/shimmy feel at certain low speeds (like around 30mph and sometimes higher) and seems worse when I let off the gas than when accelerating or holding speed. Drives great at highway speed.
Could this be a CV joint? ....or worse? I can feel it somewhat in the steering wheel, which isn't quite straight going down the road, so could it just be an alignment is needed? Car does not pull to left or right. Also, some noise when turning, but not usual clicking sounds of a CV joint.

2) I believe it may need an upper engine mount bushing. Read Matt's diy info, but does anyone know how much the dealer charges to replace?

Post by **am0220** » 15 Jan 2004, 16:27

OK, not-so-good news today from Volvo shop. Anyone ever do the following themselves:

Replace control arm?
(says it really needs a rack)
Replace front hub assembly?

Replace lower engine mount? (plus upper mount)

Replace timing belt?

How hard to change your own brake pads?

(Must go get trash can now)

Tsquared · Post by **Tsquared** » 15 Jan 2004, 16:59

Replace control arm? Haven't done that on a Volvo. Replaced complete rack on a Ford Temp - PIA, I will not do that again.

Replace front hub assembly? Haven't done this either. I have paid for a CV on other FWD cars. A bit beond what I am willing to do myself.

Replace lower engine mount? (plus upper mount) I have done the upper mount. on a scale of 1-10 it is a 3. The lower shouldn't be to much more???

Replace timing belt? I paid to have someone do this as well. I have large hands and that is a tight squease on the 850.

How hard to change your own brake pads? The brakes are a 4 on a scale of 1-10. If you need rotors you can get Brembo parts at www.nopi.com that cost half as much as Volvo and last twice as long. As a FYI on the brakes: wear a pair of playtex rubber gloves - it will help keep your hands cleaner and protect them from any chemicals.

Get a Haynes Repair Manual. It will outline the major servicable items and you can determine if your skills are good enough to jump into it. (Chilton's has a lot to be desired on a comprehensive repair manual for Volvo, Ford, and Saturn)

Post by **matthew1** » 15 Jan 2004, 18:40

I'd say do the brakes and engine mounts yourself, other stuff take to a Volvo independent mechanic.

I concur with Tsquared... brakes a 4, mounts a 3. Haven't done lower tho... I'd have a brake fix How To on this site but my buddie's camera battery was dead when he showed up to photograph the procedure

.

Post by **am0220** » 15 Jan 2004, 18:56

Thanks much, T2 and Matt. I may attempt the pads myself, other stuff may be too complex for me. Total estimate today (at independent Volvo mechanics) was $2,800!!! Obviously, the majority was $1,100 for rack.

(I think I have to go get that trash can again!)

Post by **am0220** » 24 Jan 2004, 13:10

Update:

Took the car to another indy Volvo mechanic who is highly recommended here. Said wasn't sure why other recommended a new rack....saw no problems.

Total cost: $1,100 Sure beat $2,800 at other place.
Replaced rotors & pads on front, new upper engine mount bushing (not OEM...mistake?), new timing belt & serpentine, new front left wheel assembly and new right inner steering rod. Obviously, front end feels like a new car.

By the way, he said hub/rod were VERY DANGEROUS! Recommend anyone reading this who is having a shimmy/wobble in front end to get it seen ASAP!

He said back brakes & lower engine mount can wait.

My question:
Still have a really mean "kick" when I first start the car (when it first "fires" and you let go of the key) and a vibration/drone felt in the steering wheel and interior when at idle, especially in gear. Anyone know if the lower mount will help this significantly? Also, he recommended the new mount over the OEM rubber one because it supposedly never has to be replaced. I read Matt's recommendation for the OEM. Anyone know from experience if this would have helped transmit less vibration?

Post by **matthew1** » 24 Jan 2004, 14:54

The OEM, not poly, upper engine mount should transmit the least vibration. Poly should last longer.

Good news on the rest of your repairs. That $1100 seems very resonable, especially considering timing belt was changed too. Good work!

Tsquared · Post by **Tsquared** » 25 Jan 2004, 12:39

The rubber in the upper mount has the "Volvo engineered" amount of flex that will give the engine its smoothness. "Poly" or urethane may have less flex and you may notice more/less engine vibrations (especially if you have a lover mount that still needs replacing). Urethane bushings and bumper components in steering and suspension are more desirable because of the more precise feel that they will convey from the road. Urethane can also absorb vibrations due to its dampening properties I it is according to the formula of the mixture used by the manufacturer. The reverse engineering of the upper mount may have the flex properly designed or it may be a