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05 S80 F/R Suspension Overhaul/Sequence

Everything on the Volvo S80. Sometimes called an "executive car", the S80 was Volvo's top-of-the-line passenger car. P2 platform.
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ppembe62
Posts: 29
Joined: 2 June 2013
Year and Model: S80, 2005
Location: 30043

05 S80 F/R Suspension Overhaul/Sequence

Post by ppembe62 »

Hi All,

I have 120,000 miles on my wife's S80. The right front strut seat needs to be replaced.

I figure if I am gonna replace that (& do same to left) ... I might as well do a thorough overhaul of all suspension parts - both front & rear, ball joints, tie rod ends, links, control arms (or just bushings?), motor mounts (top or bottom or both), axles/CV joints, wheel bearings, and subframe O-rings....

What I need help with is the following:

1). What suspension parts should I replace?
2). What order should I do these tasks so I don't end-up removing/replacing same parts to get to other parts?
3). What else makes sense to do when under there?

Thanks so much for your help!!!

Peter

kahl
Posts: 943
Joined: 27 October 2012
Year and Model: 2000V70XC
Location: columbus ohio
Been thanked: 10 times

Post by kahl »

Would not replace the cv axles, subframe mounts, wheel bearings or motor mounts unless these parts have failed. I would check for worn out engine mounts and replace if needed. especially the top mount attached to the fire wall.
On one of our S80 it is punching thru 130 K and the only thing that has been changed is the control arm due to a failed bushing. The other S80 we changed out the C/A, ball joints, outer and inner tie rod, sway bar links, struts, spring seat and bearing plate at 160K. In the rear new shocks and sway bar links. you may have a lot of life left in these components. by lifting the car up with wheels attached do the tire wiggle test at the 9 and 3 position and the 12 and 6 position looking for play.
I found for us there is no real sequence to follow if replacing all of the suspension components with the exception of taking off the ball joint bolt on bottom and loosening the outer tie rod locking bolt. the control arm bolts can be tough due to their mounting in the subframe. Some bolts are hard to get to due to the motor. use a off set box end wrench on these bolts. pretty much a straight foreword job.

kahl
Posts: 943
Joined: 27 October 2012
Year and Model: 2000V70XC
Location: columbus ohio
Been thanked: 10 times

Post by kahl »

Also check the rubber brake lines for wear.

ppembe62
Posts: 29
Joined: 2 June 2013
Year and Model: S80, 2005
Location: 30043

Post by ppembe62 »

KAHL -

I will do the wiggle test...thanks kindly for the feedback. I will aslo check rubber brake lines.

Thank you, Sir!

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