'98 S70 Sequence for front suspension/drive/steering refurb

Post by **dosbricks** » 16 Nov 2014, 10:33

Greetings gear gurus,

The car needs ball joints/control arms, CV boots, and inner and outer tie rod ends. Parts will be arriving this week. So with some MVS how-to printouts and select videos at hand I'm looking for advice on the logical plan of attack for these 3 separate jobs.

I'm thinking to remove a control arm, pull an axle and replace boots--then install those components, and finish up that side by replacing the inner and outer tie rod. Then move to other side. Does that sound like the most orderly sequence?

I hope to make this more efficient by combining tasks and only having to pay for one alignment. All suggestions appreciated.

dos

Post by **xHeart** » 16 Nov 2014, 10:57

dosbricks wrote:Greetings gear gurus,
...
I'm thinking to remove a control arm, pull an axle and replace boots--then install those components, and finish up that side by replacing the inner and outer tie rod. Then move to other side. Does that sound like the most orderly sequence?
...

Like you said, I would do one side at a time.
The tension between stabilizer bar, and the strut assembly is held with sway bar link. Take is off on the side you work, and put it back on before taking it off at the other side. Else expect nightmare if you are a first timer.

You would want to write the ride height measurement before raising the front. The measurement can then be used for raising LCA/axle at the final torque on LCA bolts to the subframe.

Post by **FLXC90** » 16 Nov 2014, 12:06

so far so good. Also it will be easier to access the tie rods with the axles out of the way. just remember to count threads, or measure length of tie-rods

Post by **dosbricks** » 16 Nov 2014, 13:00

xHeart, I've changed sway bar links several times on these two cars, always with both sides of the front raised and with a jack under the sway bar end before disconnecting--seems to work well. Is there any negative to having both sides of the front end up on jack stands while changing these other parts? I've written down tips gleaned from various threads to try to make this go smooth.

FLXC90, so for improved clearance you suggest replacing the tire rod ends before reinstalling the axles. Good tip!

I've not planned on replacing the tie rod/rack boots (some risk involved) because the OE are outrageously expensive and the aftermarket ones don't get very high marks. I'll see what transpires when I remove the originals.

Post by **FLXC90** » 16 Nov 2014, 13:13

Here's one for the long-time P80 folks; I haven't done my tie-rods yet-and my driver's side inner is really bad! are the rack seals a service item to expect In OPs situation, or only if they are suspected or known to be leaking?

Post by **dosbricks** » 16 Nov 2014, 13:26

By counter holding the piston while breaking the inner tie rod loose, I hope to avoid damage to the rack seal. We'll see how that goes.

Post by **xHeart** » 16 Nov 2014, 14:46

dosbricks wrote:... Is there any negative to having both sides of the front end up on jack stands while changing these other parts?
[...]

As you suggested, I would raise the front on 2 jack-stands after taking the ride height measurement, and breaking the axle nut. Remove the wheels, but work on passenger side first.

Remember to NOT rush, do not use extreme physical force, clean surface of any dirt before putting a socket or tool on it. Rehearse if not sure.

Safety, good visibility, and proper tools have no substitute.

Post by **xHeart** » 16 Nov 2014, 14:48

dosbricks wrote:By counter holding the piston while breaking the inner tie rod loose, I hope to avoid damage to the rack seal. We'll see how that goes.

Not a good idea, rack age is against you.
Replace the entire rack with rebuild.

Post by **erikv11** » 16 Nov 2014, 15:23

I would do exactly in the order of your first post.

I don't think I would touch the end links, especially of they have been recently replaced. Maybe if I got in there and wanted them out ... but they do not interfere at all with pulling the axle.
Drop the control arm at the subframe, then the pinch bolt.
Then the axle, then the tie rods.
True age is working against us but I've always been able to break the inners loose without damaging the rack seals.

Post by **dosbricks** » 16 Nov 2014, 15:30

xHeart wrote:
dosbricks wrote:By counter holding the piston while breaking the inner tie rod loose, I hope to avoid damage to the rack seal. We'll see how that goes.
Not a good idea, rack age is against you.
Replace the entire rack with rebuild.

I sort of consider that as out of the range of my capabilities--although I'm moderately more able than my peers at the ripe age of 67 years.

I'm a slow careful worker--it might be a month before I'm done with this depending on how cold it gets and whether I can avoid damaging peripheral elements.

Just curious--is there a reason for starting on the passenger side?