1999 Volvo S80 MAF/O2 Sensor Dilema

WhySoSerious_413 · Post by **WhySoSerious_413** » 09 Oct 2013, 19:21

Hi everyone new to the site and so far learned a lot from everyone and its been very helpful. I own a 1999 Volvo S80 2.9L and like a two months ago I noticed that I was leaking coolant. I did some inspections around the radiator and found a crack. Well I get a new radiator and begin to install it. In the process of changing the bottom radiator hose I took off the upper part of the air box without disconnecting the MAF. Now while I was finishing the installation of the radiator I noticed that the left 02 sensor cable was pinched by the metal plate under the car that goes over the cat. Well I loosen it and brought around and tied it up with zip ties.

Now here is my problem, I turn the car on and BAMM!!! CHECK ENGINE light ON. Now I take my OBDII scanner and I get P0102 low input. I always noticed that while with this code. my scanner showed no OHM reading on the screen. I buy a couple of used ones and get the same code. Later I buy a new one online (cheap) and gives me a code of P0103 high output. I bring it to a Volvo place and paid $50 for the scan (just to make sure) and he said that it was the MAF and the left O2 sensor (gave me a price of $911.25). Finally after the frustration and headaches I go to a local auto parts store and buy a OEM one which is # 8670112. I Installed it and BAMMM! gives me same code from the beginning P0102 which is basically no reading like the pic. I was very discourage and down so I called a dealer and told them my problem. The technician said well you need "VOLVO" product not "OEM". I told him that VOLVO doesn't make parts BOSCH does. I bought OEM BOSCH #8670112 came in yellow box with Bosch red letters certified with their seal. But they told me that no that I needed VOLVO parts. Now to me it makes no sense, I already know that my car does not need an update to install the MAF. But paying $337 for 02 sensor and $325 for MAF just because it says VOLVO on the outside box when Bosch is the one who makes them its ridiculous. At least I was able to return the OEM sensor at the store but on a dealer I cant do that.

My point here guys is that my car is losing power and now when I hit the gas wont even drive pass 20 MPH I got to drive it like if its manual to pick up speed. I just want to know if there is a way to check if the wires are messed up. If the 02 sensor is triggering the MAF once I loosen it from the pinch Or should I spend all this money to basically end up broke and my car still with the same problem.

I need help guys. I love this car and its messing up, Thanks.

BradF80 · Post by **BradF80** » 11 Oct 2013, 08:24

Have you tried running the car with the MAF unplugged to see if it runs any better ? It's a simple way to rule out if the other components are failing.

As far as parts and Volvo's go, I have found that OEM used is better than any aftermarket new "OEM" part. It's not uncommon to get bad aftermarket sensors off the shelf at your local parts store, the quality control on these aftermarket parts are not the same despite them being the same manufacturer.

Have you checked the voltage coming into the sensor and the grounds? If this is out of your scope of skill I suggest taking the car to a professional before you waste any more money throwing parts at it.

WhySoSerious_413 · Post by **WhySoSerious_413** » 11 Oct 2013, 12:19

Thanks BradF80. I did unplugged it before and the car stayed the same, running rough. But two days ago I unplugged the sensor and the car shut off, I guess that means that the sensor was bad. I put another one in and still running rough but ill check later on again to see if it shuts off with the one that's in.

I have three OEM used sensors but the do the same roughness. Well I have an OHM reader but I don't know much about electro mechanical issues. how do I check the ground? What's the voltage reading that it should give me? (if you know). I tried a couple of places and some told me they don't work on Volvos. Again thank you and ill keep everyone posted.

WhySoSerious_413 · Post by **WhySoSerious_413** » 14 Oct 2013, 08:42

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/Volvo-MAF-Sensor1/Test-c.html

Well so far surfing Google I found this posted by Jimbee on January 13, 2013. I'll try this out and hopefully I can find the problem. I keep everyone posted.

blmvolvos80 · Post by **blmvolvos80** » 14 Oct 2013, 18:56

Read your post. I have similar issue on my 1999 s80 non-turbo 2.9. Just wondering what you found out on yours.

My situation in short form:
Car was daily driver, but developed bad starting problem (cranking a LOT before startup). Check engine light is on, messages about emission system service needed, engine system service required.

Read lots of online suggestions stuff, moved battery cable, replaced cam and crank sensors, checked plugs/coil packs, but no luck. Starter ended up grinding teeth off flywheel. I replaced flywheel (miserable job to say the very least) and put on brand new starter. This time also cleaned MAF sensor with spray cleaner. Voila! Starting problem fixed! Engine running great . . . for two days. Took two small drives, after the last one I raised the hood to look around and make sure all my connections were good, hoses were clamped, wires supported in brackets, etc. I noticed that a bracket holding O2 sensor couplings was not bolted to tranny. I moved it with my hand only to locate the bolt-on spot, found it, and literally while I was standing there, happy listening to my smooth running engine, the engine suddenly dropped to a rough idle and spitting and sputtering.

When I try to drive it, car has minimal acceleration and only up to 15-20 mps, idles rough and will not rev up past 2500 rpms. I checked codes with obdII scanner at advance auto parts, indicated problem in evap system which turned out to be a vaccum line detached from pcv oil separator box. Fixed that, reset computer by battery disconnect and holding battery cables together for a while. Started car again, GREAT! Check engine light off and no messages except SRS light, no big deal at this point. Car still does the same thing. Starts perfect on first try, revs normally for 2-5 seconds, then immediately drops to low idle, and no revs. Sounds like limp home mode right? Yeah, but NO CODES OR MESSAGES!!! I've checked all fuses, disconnected battery to reset computer (once for three days just to make sure lol), checked vacuum lines, cleaned electrical connections, replaced plugs, checked every coil pack, prayed for a miracle so i can avoid the stealership, still no success.

Considering purchasing a Volvo Dice and computer to access car computer. Could get that for less than a trip to Volvo.

Needless to say, I could use some input from anyone who has fixed theirs.

WhySoSerious_413 · Post by **WhySoSerious_413** » 16 Jan 2014, 07:11

Well guys I brought my S80 to a Volvo specialist and they determined that's it was 4 coil packs and the spark plugs that were bad and now the car runs good. The Check engine light still on but the car runs like before. Right now the only issue is that we cleaned the carbon build up and all the sudden a rattling noise was coming from one of the catalytic converters. He said it was $1832.96 for the assembly I couldn't believe it.

matt5112 · Post by **matt5112** » 21 Jan 2014, 21:50

You can get a Bosal cat for around $500 to your door last I checked. Even if you paid for install, it should be half of that.