There are 3 different solenoids (SLS, SLT & SLU) and 2 different kits. 2003 and on for valve bodies marked "B" and "C" have their own kit.
The other solenoids S1 through S5 are not targeted. They just need to be tested.
The Sonnax part numbers you listed are for single solenoids not kits. Kits are sold on eBay.
Then the other solenoids for valve bodies with no markings or marked "A"
Both 2002 cars I refurbished were marked "A" as well as my uncompleted 2001.
Be careful with solenoid sellers. Some eBay sellers such as ctpowertrain mention the letter designations and some don't.
Also replacing just the solenoids is a shortcut which should fix 90% of the issues. In my video I show 2 small piston valves which I had already replaced. These solve some minor issues.
Also replacing all the valve body gaskets will solve minor cross leakage between oil galleys. Before embarking on this journey read all the literature I've provided including the Transgo install instructions.
2000-2008 AW55-50SN Valvebody re-assembly
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
2001-2007 AW55-50SN Valve Body Re-assembly
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precopster
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Re: 2000-2008 AW55-50SN Valvebody re-assembly
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That's a great video. Can I just remove the SLS, SLT and SLU solenoids without opening the valve body? I'm thinking I'd only replace the solenoids at this point.
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precopster
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It's certainly doable, only 2 bolts keep them in. Testing the remaining 5 solenoids is also possible without removing the valve body. However placing the SLT, SLU & SLS solenoids back on requires fiddly alignment which would be very difficult if the VB was still attached.oragex wrote:That's a great video. Can I just remove the SLS, SLT and SLU solenoids without opening the valve body? I'm thinking I'd only replace the solenoids at this point.
Removing the valve body isn't such a big deal as it's only 6 x 10mm bolts. Just lift the engine around 1.3 -1.4 inches instead of the recommended 1 inch as this makes all the difference. Just clean the mating surface gasket before placing it back on. No need to disassemble the valve body layers.
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Yes, I will remove the valve body from the transmission, just didn't want to open it. The gasket to the transmission is to be replaced, or just have the surface cleaned?
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precopster
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The gasket to the transmission forms one of the deepest gaskets in the assembly. I would just clean it and be sure it doesn't get damaged in the process. It only contacts the transmission over 7-8 square inches. The rest is embedded in the valve body. Be sure to check the 2 O rings on the transmission before placing the valve body back in place. If they fall off there'll be no line pressure.
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Great, I'll report back for improvement, I only have a 2nd to 3rd shifting kick, hope it's only the three solenoids.
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precopster
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Have you checked the B4 cover?
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No. I will check it as well, however from what I've read the servo cover is more responsible for shifting flare. My transmission doesn't have flare, only harsh (kick) shifting. I'm not sure though, I'll check it as well.
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precopster
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Harsh kick on upshift is usually not the problem with these.
Usually it's harsh downshift from 3rd to 2nd.
Usually it's harsh downshift from 3rd to 2nd.
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I think you are right, is there a chance this could be only software related? If I remember, when I got the car it was shifting well, the issue only started after draining the fluid (with the 3309 one) but I didn't went to the garage for adaptation and new fluid reset.
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