1998 T5 - New Member Introduction and Questions

[esl_97_850_T5]

mecheng,

What I would call the Coles Notes (Cliff Notes) version was already linked to.

Specifically, focus on item 2a and/or item 2b2 in this post in the "1998 S70 T5 - Few Misc. Questions on Various Topics" thread. I can't get any more concise than that. Did you read that post?

Are you planning on sending your ABS module to MattyMoo? Then forget item 2b2 and go no further. He'll clear the codes for you.

Or do you want to -- before resorting to sending it to MattyMoo -- first read/clear the ABS DTCs, temporarily (at least) assume the ABS module is good (since the previous owner said it had been repaired), go for a drive, read the ABS DTCs again, then attempt to diagnose potential wheel sensor or other problems using whatever ABS DTCs return after you clear them and erikv11's item 5 pointers? If yes, then decide what hardware you'll use to talk with the ABS.

Are you planning on using an ELM327 device to communicate with the ABS?
Or are you planning to use a VAG/COM KKL cable?
Or are you planning on using a handheld scanner (eg, the Autel MS700 series)?

After answering the above questions, you can get back to me here or via PM-ing, or you can continue with the following...

Pointers to get ELM327 to read/clear '96-'98 Volvo 850/S70/V70... ABS DTCs

If you're planning on using an ELM327 compatible device, acquire the ELM327 device and get it setup. I'd suggest following the Introduction and especially the Requirements sections on my new ELM327 Reads Volvo 850 and SVC70 Mileage page. That's the best Coles Notes overview that I know of for getting the ELM327 ready for talking with the Volvo 850 / S70 / V70 / C70 / XC70 ABS. It'll point you in the right direction to getting the ELM327 device drivers setup, configuring a bit after that setup, acquiring appropriate terminal emulator software, etc.

It would probably be a good idea to go a little further on that COMBI Mileage oriented page and issue the AT commands and KWPD3B0 requests to the terminal emulator -- at least down thru the B903 request. That way you can see in that page's ELM327 ECU 51 commands & responses example (with links) section what typical responses should look like in your terminal emulator window.

Once you can get a similar F903 response to a B903 request sent to your ELM327/car, then issue the commands/requests from the item 2b2 that I mentioned above. Those commands/requests will read the ABS DTCs, then clear them, then read them again. Here they are listed again, in an alternate fashion (with 3 extra AT commands added and with the final A0 and ATPC removed):

ATZ
ATL1
ATE1
ATI
ATSP 3A
ATDP
ATH1
ATAL
ATKW0
ATTA 13
ATRA 13
ATIIA 01
ATWM 82 01 13 A1
ATSH 83 01 13
AE01
AF01
AE01
ATKW

After you're done with either the item 2b2 instructions or the above alternate instructions -- both of which read/clear ABS DTCs -- then select all the commands/requests and responses in the terminal server's log -- starting with the very first garbled ATZ and going down thru the final response -- make a copy of them (with Ctrl-C, Command-C, or however you do it), then paste them into the kwpd3b0_interpreter.html's grey "Paste Volvo 850/SVC70 communication here" box near the bottom of that page, then press Interpret.

NOTE #1: It is a royal pain to try copying the commands/requests/responses in the Hyperterminal and Realterm terminal emulator's display windows. It's far easier to record all the message exchange into a log file, then copy the log file's contents into the interpreter. Both Hyperterminal and Realterm have such a logging facility. I'm not sure about other terminal emulators.

NOTE #2: Some people paste commands and requests into the interpreter without pasting any responses. That's a total waste of time. It is essential that the car's responses (as displayed by the ELM327) are included in any pasted input to the KWPD3B0 interpreter. Otherwise, there's nothing to interpret.

NOTE #3: The next time you do this, you can totally bypass that page about reading the mileage from the COMBI. That page was used to get the "newborn" on his/her feet. So on subsequent times, when desiring to read/clear ABS DTCs, just issue to the ELM327 either: a) the ATZ thru ATKW instructions listed above, or b) the bolded item 2b2's instructions. And make sure appropriate responses are returned. Then select all the commands/requests and responses in the terminal server's log, copy them, paste them into the kwpd3b0_interpreter.html "Paste Volvo 850/SVC70 communication here" box, then press Interpret.

After answering the above questions, you can get back to me here or via PM-ing, and we'll take some more steps, if you haven't figured it all out by then.

esl_97_850_T5

[mecheng]

I bought the ect and thermostat from the dealer, installed without a problem. I was going to try to replace the thermostat only but decided to do both. Code is cleared. Temp gauge stays consistent.
I couldn't find anything wrong with the thermostat, it was closed.

The bad news is that I can tell some oil got into the coolant, I'm guessing my rad has a leak. Hopefully rad fluid isn't getting into the oil? It doesn't look milky. While it's not good to have oil in the coolant, if it gets into the oil that could cause some damage. Has anyone had thus happen? How hard is it to replace the rad. Should I go with oem or aftermarket? I'm glad I paid only $1000 for the car, I guess the water pump is well lubricated lol

[rspi]

Rad replacement is a 2 hour job.

[erikv11]

Yes, it is pretty common for rads to fail this way, internal cooler breach.

Nissens or Volvo brand. Personally I always go with Volvo brand which is Valeo, but people say that Nissens is good. Price out them both, try tascaparts.com or Darrel Waltrip Volvo for pricing.

[mecheng]

Rspi: thanks for the video, it seems doable for me. Do you replace the o rings on all the lines? Do I need to drain the tranny or engine oil?

Your ignition video helped me a lot! I came yesterday and couldn't my key out of the ignition. I tried everything. I then googled it and found your video on the shifter button. I sprayed the button with wd-40

Erikv11: ill price them out and get either, I know both companies. I won't get a cheaper brand, it's not an easy repair on these cars. On my Integra, it was so easy.

Update: Sold my Integra for more than I paid for this car but it runs perfect, no hidden issues like I'm discovering with this car. My dad bought his GLT new and he had the same problems I have expericed and he babies his car. I think I traced the sqeaks down to my glovebox, I tightened all the screws and put electrical tape on the bumper stops, plunger stop and the latch, tomorrow I will find out if it works.

One thing I noticed is that the exhaust pukes a bit of oil but it doesn't show any smoke at all. I just notice a very small puddle near the tail pipe any thoughts?

Still no lambda light, not sure why the O2 sensor code would disappear on its own

[mecheng]

One of my local parts supplier's can get

$248 - Made by Behr

The other supplier:

$250 - Made by Cryomax

They can also get a Chinese one for $150 but that is obviously out of the question as its a big job.

Anybody have any experience with either of the above companies. I've heard of Behr.

[erikv11]

Behr is generally good quality but I don't know the latest comments on Behr radiators for these cars.

Is shipping to Canada a hassle for you?

At FCPGroton the Nissens is $180 (http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-r ... -c70-turbo). I don't like the Nissens but a lot of people here do, may be worth it.

At Waltrip the OEM rad is $267 (http://www.trademotion.com/parts/1998/V ... am=9711055)
Same price at Tascaparts.com (http://tascaparts.com/parts/index.cfm?s ... eid=213668) but they often gouge on shipping.
Bit cheaper at Jim Ellis Volvo only $250 (http://www.jimellisvolvoparts.com/p/Vol ... 03770.html)

Try searching on Volvo 8601356 or Volvo 8603770, to get pricing on the OEM one.

[mecheng]

Update:

The electrical tape on the glovebox latch helps a bit but not enough, I will try furnature cushions at the four corners.

The sunroof was having difficulty closing, I cleaned and lubricated it and did the reset procedure: On accessory II hold both front PW windows switches closed for 5-8 seconds. Take key out, Then activate lock/unlock lock/unlock on remote

Any input on the following: One thing I noticed is that the exhaust pukes a bit of oil but it doesn't show any smoke at all. I just notice a very small puddle near the tail pipe any thoughts?

[abscate]

That's probably rich fuel mix and water, not oil but if is not excessive let it ride.

[mecheng]

The cooler on the passenger side of the radiator is showing fluid on the outside, is that the transmission cooler side or engine oil? Thanks!