98 V70 AWD Fuel Filter Change ( Early 1998 AWD only)

Post by **rmmagow** » 27 Aug 2012, 08:35

Mod note…the later 98 99 00 AWD fuel filter is relocated to rear of axle carriage and is not accessible from the access holes noted here

Just did this over the weekend and wanted to write it up. I'm a bit of a luddite and don't own a camera and have no clue how to get pictures off my phone, so words only. This is a 2 wrench level of difficulty.

Tools, 10mm socket, 12 mm socket, 17MM open end wrench or tie-rod type pickle-fork (may be optional), flashlight, eye protection, duct tape, flat blade screwdriver, car ramps, PBlaster or Liquid Wrench, WD40, anti-seize compound, work outside if possible.

1. Open hatch back and remove all your junk.
2. Open spare tire cover, remove spare tire and associated crap.
3. Remove spare tire cover. It has "flats" at the ends. When you open it, you will see how these flats line up so you can easily remove the cover.
4. Open the other cover. Note, these instructions are different if you have a third seat. I don't so...
5. Flip the second row seats down. Optional, but give you a little breathing space.
6. Look on both sides next to this second cover. You will see 2 10MM bolts on either side. Remove these.
6. Grasp the second cover and pull gently from side to side to disengage the whole second cover assembly from its mounting points.
7. There are TWO access panels to be removed. The big one has 5 10mm nuts holding it on. Remove them.
8. The second access cover is located under that scary looking bunch of wires just a bit up and to the left of the big access cover.
9. That bunch of wires is held in place with two black plastic push on connectors. The push on connectors are like trim type connectors. Gently work a flat blade screwdriver around the connectors to loosen them. Remove the connectors, don't be tempted to leave them in place, they'll fall off.
10. The big bunch of wires are mounted in some kind of fixture that has been freed up in step 9. Gently lift that, move it to the right and using a 8 to 10 inch piece of duct tape fasten it out of the way.
11. Second access plate is now visible. Remove the 4 10mm nuts and the plate.
12. OK, now have a look around. The big access plate lets you see where the filter is held in place by the clamp, the second smaller access plate you can see where the filter is connected to the line leading to the front of the car. This second access area is the only way to get at that part.
13. 12mm bolt holding the filter. This can be difficult to remove. Spray the bolt head and underneath the bolt with you favorite rust buster stuff. This bolt can be tough. I was afraid I'd snap it or wreck the clamp. I think you can buy a new clamp and nut from Volvo. I have a battery powered impact wrench and that removed the bolt easily. I think a socket and a quick rap on the socket handle might do the trick too.
14. Put the rear of the car on ramps or jack it up on the right side and put it on a jackstand. In either case, use something to block the wheels. DO NOT WORK WITH JUST THE JACK. Use stands.
15. Get underneath and have a look around and marvel at the ridiculous extra level of complexity for mediocre AWD.
16. Using your flashlight, find the fuel filter and the rear most connector. Gas Alert. Relieving pressure isn't totally necessary, not much comes out. Grasp the rear most hose on the filter and rotate back and forth a bit and pull rearwards. It will come off pretty easily.
17. You are going to have to get back into the car to remove the front of the filter connector.
18 Look through the smaller access hole with a flashlight and you'll see the front connector. It is a tight fit, but you can get your hand in there to at least feel the connector. I couldn't get a good enough grip on it. I took the open end 17mm wrench, worked it between the filter and the connector and pried forward 'till the connector came out. A pickle fork would work too.
19. Returning to the big access hole. That nut at the bottom of the clamp can be worked through the mounting slot to completely disconnect the filter from the car body. Squeeze around and fiddle it through the slot.
20. Back under the car, reach up and work the old filter out of there. You might have to move a hose or two, be gentle. Check the condition of those rubber hoses you can see/touch. I think this is the roll-over valve here and broken hoses there give the P0410, gross leak code.
21. Note how the filter clamp is positioned and how the filter was oriented in the car. The ridged part of the filter faces the back of the car. Remove the clamp from the old filter and put it on the new. You might need to spray some release agent around to get the clamp off. Mine came off easily.
22. Before putting the new filter in place, take off the end protectors and spray a light shot of WD40 on there. Put the end protectors back on.
23. Back underside, work the new filter roughly into place so you can go back up top to put the clamp back where it was.
24. Work the captive nut part of the clamp back into place and loosely tighten the 12mm bolt in place. Use anti-seize on the bolt. Leave a little slop for now.
25. Go back under the car. Remove the end protector from the filter's back connector. Work the hose back into position and push it on the end connector. With the WD40 it should just slip right into place.
26. Go back up top and look through the smaller access hole to find the hose there. Remove the end protector, position the hose and push it on. Yes, it is a snug fit there, but doable. Push it as far as it'll go. There should be less that 1/2 inch between the end of the hose and the body of the filter.
27. If necessary, shift the filter around so it's in the clamp like the old one. Tighten the 12mm bolt. Not gorilla tight. About as tight as a spark plug I'd say.
28. Get in the car, turn the ignition key to the second position, turn it off, remove the key, put it in again and turn it to the second position.
29. Flashlight, look closely into both access holes to 100% be sure there are no leaks. Start the engine, check it again. Look underneath the car and just be sure there's no dripping at all.
30. Shut off the car. Get it off the ramps or jack. Reassemble all the stuff you removed. Be sure to use the push on connectors to hold the wire loom in place.
31. When putting the second rear cover in place, note how the hooks go under the parts on the left and right and angle to second cover in place such that you won't be chafing any wires.
32. Check the pressure in your spare tire now that it's out.
33. You are finished. Make a promise to yourself to buy a GLT next time around.

louty · Post by **louty** » 27 Aug 2012, 09:06

wow
what a pain in the arse. I just did one on a 2000 v70xc awd and it was maybe one of the easiest of our 3 in the family
(98 s70, 2000 s70, 2000 v70)

Post by **rmmagow** » 27 Aug 2012, 09:26

Reads a lot worse than it was. I had no clue going in, but I can't see how it could be any easier any other way. It was a PITA but the car is pretty happy now, no P0171 light this morning.

echase76 · Post by **echase76** » 27 Aug 2012, 19:41

Wow! The AWD car sounds like a PITA for the filter change. I did this on my '98 FWD and it took all of about 15 minutes. All done from underneath the car.

Glad your P0171 is gone!

djohnk · Post by **djohnk** » 10 Jun 2013, 10:09

Thanks for your excellent write-up on this. I was going to change my fuel filter and only opened the rear cover. Didn't see that cover in the front and buttoned it back up because it looked like a pita.

Last night I researched further, and read your write-up. I and saw there are two covers to take off. Not too bad of a job if your patient. I did have a problem with the bolt holding the steel strap that clamps the fuel filter to the car. I twisted the bolt head off because it was so rusty. Had to drill it out and replace it with alternative hardware (well greased so hopefully it won't rust to bad next time.)

Post by **deepsouth** » 28 Jul 2013, 18:46

Great write-up. Did this today and it was a serious PITA. Clamp bolt was frozen solid, cracked hoses everywhere (most certainly contributing the the p0455 code that has driven me nuts for the last month). Took about an hour and a half--mostly because of the frozen bolt. The V70 AWD has 197,000 on the clock and the filter looked original.

thanks!

headhunter · Post by **headhunter** » 09 Apr 2014, 13:07

Wow I too took off the first access cover and didn't see the second one. Wrestled with it for a while trying to figure out how in the heck I would get the front line off the filter. Decided to come research and found your description. Thanks a lot for taking the time to write it up. This site and dudes like you rule.

TheLoneAviator · Post by **TheLoneAviator** » 16 Aug 2014, 14:23

Here are some photos of my Fuel filter change for this thread. The directions above are good.

Son of Dad · Post by **Son of Dad** » 03 May 2015, 20:38

This is really good. I watched Robert's video on the filter change as well as FCP's, crawled up under the car and did a lot of nothing.

I got up under the rear without my ramps, but I'm a smaller guy. I'll also recommend eye protection. I don't think mine had ever been changed and it dumped fuel and sludge. So if you're unsure, grab something to cover your eyes.

Thanks again. As someone finally getting back into a Volvo and doing some of the work myself, this was perfect.

Post by **scot850** » 06 May 2015, 19:35

98 is harder than to 2000 R by the sounds of things, but you do gain in other areas. The 2000 is a little trick to access, but is relatively easy as long as stuff ain't frozen. 1 'Torx' screw and 2 clip connectors.

: 2000 V70R Fuel filter

I have the whole rear sub-frame out. You are looing from above, but the fuel filter sits on a platform above the rear axle. As you can see there are only 2 spring loaded pipes, either end, and one band clamp. To remove the spring loaded pipes, you insert a 17mm open wrench between the filter body and the pipe ends and push the end of the pipe in and it releases with a little wiggling.

Neil.