1998 T5 - New Member Introduction and Questions

Post by **mecheng** » 14 Apr 2014, 12:37

Why does the 99 S70 list Timing Belt Change at 90,000 miles

But the 98 is listed at 70,000 miles

according to the Volvo Website:

http://www.volvocars.com/us/top/yourvol ... fault.aspx

I have a 98 but it has the Mechanical Tensioner so it is the same as the 99 design I believe. Does the mechanical tensioner allow the belt to last longer and / or the tensioner lasts longer itself?

Post by **rmmagow** » 14 Apr 2014, 13:38

98 is probably referring to a 98 with the auto hydraulic tensioner. 98 with the mechanical was built towards the end of the 98 model run. I have a 98 with the hydraulic that went to 130K on the original belt, I just got lucky it didn't snap. Much better to be conservative with the belt.

Post by **mecheng** » 14 Apr 2014, 15:22

rmmagow wrote:98 is probably referring to a 98 with the auto hydraulic tensioner. 98 with the mechanical was built towards the end of the 98 model run. I have a 98 with the hydraulic that went to 130K on the original belt, I just got lucky it didn't snap. Much better to be conservative with the belt.

So the mechanical tensioner causes the belt to last longer? I assume from a more steady state belt tension?

The belt is not due I'm just curious. Any belt failure will be my only fault.

FYI I looked at my dad's belt at 115km and it looked great. If you drive in very hot or cold climate this may not be the case

Post by **erikv11** » 14 Apr 2014, 17:40

The difference is not because of wear on the timing belt, the belt is actually the least problematic of the timing parts. Rather, replacement interval is driven by the tensioner and rollers. Some people argue the opposite, that the mechanical tensioner is more prone to failure than the hydraulic one.

YMMV ...

Post by **mecheng** » 15 Apr 2014, 04:57

I hate when there is no consensus! What should I look for when examining the tensioner and pulleys
While the belt is still,on?

Post by **precopster** » 15 Apr 2014, 07:13

mecheng wrote: What should I look for when examining the tensioner and pulleys While the belt is still,on?

It's guesswork with everything on. You can use a mirror between the valley in the middle of the camshaft sprockets to inspect the belt for cracks.

With the pulley and tensioner you need to remove them to be able to spin them and listen for a bearing that lacks grease.

Post by **erikv11** » 15 Apr 2014, 07:34

You can also listen for noisy bearings while the car is running but overall I agree with Mike, you need to just pull the belt. Then you can spin the bearings while the parts are still on the car. Pulling and reinstalling the belt is not bad at all, gives you some idea of what you're in for when you do the replacements.

Post by **mecheng** » 15 Apr 2014, 08:40

Ok thanks, I will do the timing belt check.

Update: Stage 0 fully complete.

Interesting things I noted, the car had the OEM Volvo Made in England Plugs, the gap was at 0.043" due to wear. No idea how long they were in the car for. I changed them to the Recommended Champion Plugs and gapped them to 0.030". The suppliers in my area could not get the Bosch plugs and the dealer wanted $70 for the OEM Volvo Plugs. My owners manual recommends Champion btw, and the car runs good with them even though I know they are not a popular plug.

I changed the cap and rotor to a Bosch unit. The old cap and rotor contacts looked "chewed up" and rough. The plug wires were fine, I didn't change them.

Cleaned IACV, PTC, air filter box, and MAP sensor.

I was expecting more power or the car to run even better but I would be lying if it did. It ran super smooth and fast before the tune up and ran just as good after. I was surprised how well it ran when I saw how worn the plugs and rotor was but it seems the Volvo is not picky which the condition of these components. The biggest difference I found was when I changed the transmission fluid. It shifted smoother and felt pepier. I used Mag 1 - Dextron III. Mag 1 is not available everywhere but it is a good fluid company for the money and my parts guy carries them exclusively. They supply a lot of other companies.

Oh wait, I lied, I still have to change the fuel filter. But I am waiting to see if my EVAP code comes back, so far so good (purge valve). Otherwise, I will inspect the j hose

Post by **mecheng** » 28 Apr 2014, 11:34

I finally got around to changing the fuel filter to complete Stage 0. I was busy installing a new garage door opener, the old one crapped out and with life in general. I was also not really eager as I rarely expect much from a simple filter change.

How I was wrong, this was the single most performance gain from all the Stage 0 work besides the transmission fluid change. It was a bit of dog in city driving and I attributed it to turbo lag at first but I can say the car feels much peppier. The filter must have been really clogged, it looked like the original as it had some undercoating on it. I used a Bosch filter. I plan to cut it apart with a Sawzsall once it dries out and I flush some water in it.

Here is a pic of her after her first car wash.

Post by **abscate** » 29 Apr 2014, 02:24

I'm glad you were able to turn over a new Maple Leaf with your car...

Welcome aboard!

1998 T5 - New Member Introduction and Questions

Re: 1998 T5 - New Member Introduction and Questions