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96 855 best option for rebuilt/new A/C compressor?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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abscate
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Re: 96 855 best option for rebuilt/new A/C compressor?

Post by abscate »

I would value the warranty at 0 dollars. eBay merchants without 1000 reviews of warranty cases aren't likely to honor a warranty on a part like this that requires expertise and tools to install.

The part is probably fine but be prepared to eat the cost if things go bad.

Seller has 1000 reviews and a 98% approval so thems the numbers
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Post by cn90 »

1+,

A warranty from ebay is worth something but:
- You are out of luck if the compressor fails at day #366, one day after the warranty period.
- You have to remove the compressor, i.e., labor is yours.
- You have to pay shipping costs back and forth.
- You have to pay to have the R134a evacuated and recharged.

You need to factor in the fact that: how long do you plant o keep the car?

If this were me, I plan to keep the car another 5 years, I'd go with the "New Old Stock" Zexel, as the Zexel compressor is known to last 15y/200K. I understand that costs more, but at $300, it is still cheaper than a car payment.
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Post by JimBee »

Good points, gentlemen. This 5 speed manual n/a 855 base model (138k miles) has proven to be a dandy road car and I plan to take a trip or two this summer. Is it a long time keeper? Not sure. I might like to find a nice clean '98 5 speed n/a low mileage replacement for the longer haul. But for the interim, the base will serve as my summer car.

We all the know the grim reaper is hiding out there waiting to fling its monkey wrench into the works.
What if a guy keeps a short belt handy and for the months of vehicle use that don't call for a/c, he puts on the short belt to take the device off line.
Then with no parts moving, does the device not tend (probabilistically) to self-preserve for a much longer time—thus, once again defeating the G-R?

burnout8488
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Post by burnout8488 »

With the compressor clutch disengaged, the compressor is basically just a freewheel pulley. There'd be no benefit to bypassing it.
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Post by jimmy57 »

I don't know where you are but where I live the a/c is needed in winter as there are days when its dehumdifying is a great aid to clearing windows on rainy days when it is 50F an up.
If you turn the controls to defrost a/c is turned on for this purpose. The compressor will not run at something around 36F and lower due to the pressure being too low to close the cycling switch contacts.

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Post by JimBee »

So, some things to keep in mind. Thanks all for the feedback.

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Post by abscate »

jimmy57 wrote:I don't know where you are but where I live the a/c is needed in winter as there are days when its dehumdifying is a great aid to clearing windows on rainy days when it is 50F an up.
If you turn the controls to defrost a/c is turned on for this purpose. The compressor will not run at something around 36F and lower due to the pressure being too low to close the cycling switch contacts.
On most cars the AC is actually inhibited directly below 32F by the control system. This is the case with my 99.
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