I am confused as to whether this engine (B5234T ) comes equipped with a high pressure or a low pressure turbo. I had thought all 1995 850 Turbos came with high pressure.
Also, my mechanic is replacing my blown engine with a used which I am told has relatively low mileage for its age and good compression. It may not be from the same year as mine since it has EGR and mine doesn't. Is this a sign that the turbos may not be the same pressure? Whether my current engine ran with a low or a high pressure turbo doesn't really matter to me. I just want to make sure as far as possible that the kick that the turbo gives with the replacement engine is the same as with my old one. He tells me that the condition of the turbo on this replacement engine will depend not just on how the oil was maintained but also on how hard the car was driven (higher than normal rpms will affect the turbo's efficiency he says). I have no complaints about the turbo that I know (in fact its the main reason I wanted to keep the car plus the manual transmission) but would it make sense to to transfer it to the replacement engine and if so how much time is needed to do this job?
Finally, just as I received delivery of the replacement engine ($350 plus $100 shipping) having bought it not knowing about the fact that my old engine was not equipped with EGR, my local wrecker called to say someone had turned in another B5234T and he knows for a fact that the engine was not driven hard (he wants $350 for it as well). I will find out if it has EGR or not but in case it doesn't would it make sense to swap that one in instead of the one with EGR to stay consistent with my old one? My mechanic says the added expense of swapping manifolds to deal with the EGR issue is not required since he can plug the hole(s?) with a threaded bolt. I am thinking that as long as I can return the first engine and get a refund of the $350 this might be a better way to go. If the seller is not keen on this idea could pointing out the EGR issue help convince him to take it back so that I can go with the engine that just turned up at my local wrecker?
Lots of questions for sure but I would really appreciate any advice on this.
1995 850 Turbo Turbo advice needed
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
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- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
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There was no low pressure turbo (LPT) until 1997.
If the engine has EGR then it is probably a 95, though it could be a 96 or 94. Hopefully not a 94, they have some quirks. But it will definitely have the same turbo you are familiar with, the Mitsubishi 15g.
While the engines are out of the car, swapping turbos is very, very easy. The 15g is very hardy so there is only a minimal chance the one on the replacement engine is better than yours (due to lower miles), but the mechanic can test this quickly (like, in seconds) by feeling for shaft play. The less play the better; there should be none. But the CBV membrane could be bad on either turbo, they get old and inflexible and crack, I would ask him to open up the turbos and take the best CBV. Again very easy, only 3 little bolts.
The EGR issue I agree in principle with both you and your mechanic. I hate EGR and would rather not mess with it. I would be comfortable asking the yard for the swap. If the other engine just got turned in then it is less likely to have brittle oil seals and may be better anyway.
No matter what, be sure the mechanic replaces the rear main seal before the new engine gets installed. It is worth the extra expense, which should be minimal. Buy a Volvo branded seal, nothing else.
If the engine has EGR then it is probably a 95, though it could be a 96 or 94. Hopefully not a 94, they have some quirks. But it will definitely have the same turbo you are familiar with, the Mitsubishi 15g.
While the engines are out of the car, swapping turbos is very, very easy. The 15g is very hardy so there is only a minimal chance the one on the replacement engine is better than yours (due to lower miles), but the mechanic can test this quickly (like, in seconds) by feeling for shaft play. The less play the better; there should be none. But the CBV membrane could be bad on either turbo, they get old and inflexible and crack, I would ask him to open up the turbos and take the best CBV. Again very easy, only 3 little bolts.
The EGR issue I agree in principle with both you and your mechanic. I hate EGR and would rather not mess with it. I would be comfortable asking the yard for the swap. If the other engine just got turned in then it is less likely to have brittle oil seals and may be better anyway.
No matter what, be sure the mechanic replaces the rear main seal before the new engine gets installed. It is worth the extra expense, which should be minimal. Buy a Volvo branded seal, nothing else.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
Thanks for your reply providing all the info regarding the turbo and for pointing out the rms. I had forgot about that and while I am fairly confident my mechanic would have brought it up, it was good to get a reminder.
One more question and this has to do with the fact my mechanic's garage is some distance from home and I am sourcing all the parts myself. He mentioned on the phone that a mount attached to the manual (standard) transmission needs to be replaced. At first I thought he was referring to the transmission torque mount but now I am thinking it probably isn't since he describes it as a mount attached to the transmission at the level of the rack and pinion.
I reviewed the transmission tutorial at the following link to see if I could figure which mount it could be but still not sure. I wondered if his description narrows it down for you or do I have to get a look at it to be safe before I order one.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=53437
Thanks again.
One more question and this has to do with the fact my mechanic's garage is some distance from home and I am sourcing all the parts myself. He mentioned on the phone that a mount attached to the manual (standard) transmission needs to be replaced. At first I thought he was referring to the transmission torque mount but now I am thinking it probably isn't since he describes it as a mount attached to the transmission at the level of the rack and pinion.
I reviewed the transmission tutorial at the following link to see if I could figure which mount it could be but still not sure. I wondered if his description narrows it down for you or do I have to get a look at it to be safe before I order one.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=53437
Thanks again.
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j-dawg
- Posts: 1154
- Joined: 20 April 2013
- Year and Model: 1999 V70 T5
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
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in addition to the rear main seal, have the mechanic replace the coolant hoses (especially for the turbo) and timing belt before the engine goes in. these things are super easy to replace with the engine on the stand, and kind of a pain when it's in the engine bay. the parts will be cheaper than just the labor for the same jobs with the engine installed.
with the RMS, coolant hoses, and timing equipment replaced, you'll be covered for the vast majority of catastrophic engine failure scenarios. you should probably change the belt and check the tensioner, idlers, and water pump on any engine that you don't have records for, anyway.
with the RMS, coolant hoses, and timing equipment replaced, you'll be covered for the vast majority of catastrophic engine failure scenarios. you should probably change the belt and check the tensioner, idlers, and water pump on any engine that you don't have records for, anyway.
1999 V70 T5 5-SPD | ~277k mi | sold
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