New Trans Cooler Hoses (PNs 9180542 and 3507931) are about $90/each.
No worry, I will show you how to rebuild the hose for $3/each ($2/foot and the cost of Oetiker clamps)!
Car had ATF change at 70K, so the ATF is overdue (has 80K in it), it was dark/brownish. So I flush the ATF as part of this project.
SIDE NOTE: the Hydraulic Hose rebuild procedure is good for many hoses in a modern car: cooler hoses, even steering rack return hose. The only exception is the high-pressure hose running from the PS Pump to the Steering Rack, this hose carries some 1000+ psi when engine is running, so for this hose, use only OEM part, no matter what car you drive.
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References:
DIY Automatic Transmission Hose (Upper) Replacement by “jreed”. This DIY has some good tips:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=54118
New Modified Transmission Flush Method with Pictures by “MadeInJapan”. This DIY ATF Flush is valid for 1993-2000 models. The 2001+ models have different ATF flow pattern (search forum for info).
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... php?t=8767
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PARTS/TOOLS:
- 3/8-inch trans cooler hose, sold by the foot at Advance Auto Parts in the bulk section at the back of the store. Just ask the counterman for help. You need about 2 feet.
- For clamps, I like Oetiker clamps because they look more elegant than standard screw clamps. But you can use either type. For Oetiker clamps, search ebay for package of 10 Oetiker clamps for $5. Look for 16-mm or 17-mm type (the number 17 means the diameter of the Oetiker clamp = 17 mm before crimping it).
- O-ring at Radiator side 6842413 x 2 ($3 at dealer)
- Seal Ring 6842414 x 2 ($3 at dealer)
- O-ring at Trans side 968757 x 1 ($3 at dealer)
- 24-mm wrench for draining the ATF
- Snap-ring pliers to open the clip at the radiator
- Angle Grinder ($20 at hardware store) with diamond blade to cut the factory crimp off. Alternatively you can use Dremel tool. Wear goggles!
- If you replace the Lower Cooler Hose, a 22-mm O2 Sensor Socket and breaker bar is a must, read on!
- ATF Fluid: I used Quaker State Dexron-III ($3.30/qt at Menards hardware store). You can use Mobil1 synthetic ATF too, see the DIY by “MadeInJapan” above.
- Beer: this is essential, without Heineken, the car will not run LOL. OK, let’s get to work.
- VolvoATF01.JPG (155.61 KiB) Viewed 13501 times
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- VolvoATF03.JPG (108.16 KiB) Viewed 13501 times
PROCEDURE:
- Dirt is the #1 enemy of an Auto Trans, so pay attention to cleanliness!
- Drive the front of the car on wood ramps:
- Make sure you have radio code. Remove battery and battery tray and set it near the fender. NOTE: during install, make sure the battery tray does not squeeze any wiring.
- Use the 24-mm wrench to drain the ATF, about 3.3 qts comes out. Clean the drain plug and re-install it (40 Nm), or just snug it and then go from let’s say 4 o’clock to 6 o’clock positions:
- Remove the Air Intake Duct (upstream of the Air Filter) and the Turbo Pipe that runs near the throttle to the bottom of the car, where it connects to the cooler.
- Now you can see the setup. NOTE: the ATF leak at the hoses.
- Also Note the Clip has a THICK and THIN side: the THICK side goes toward the Radiator.
- Pay attention to the Lower Cooler Hose curvature so later you crimp it correctly. I will explain later, read on.
- VolvoATF04.JPG (147.51 KiB) Viewed 13501 times
- VolvoATF05.JPG (136.13 KiB) Viewed 13501 times
1. UPPER COOLER HOSE:
- The 12-mm bolt that holds the bracket is difficult to get to, but a socket and appropriate extension will get the job done (see “jreed” DIY). The bottom connection is held by a single 10-mm bolt. During install: loosely attach the 10-mm bolt half-way, then install the 12-mm bolt on the bracket. Now tighten the 10-mm bolt.
- To undo the radiator side, use Snap-ring Pliers to spread the Clip. NOTE: during install, make sure the Clip sits correctly and the line is pushed in properly. Then use a standard clamp to squeeze the clip. This is essential as these clips have a tendency to work loose, and you will lose a lot of ATF quickly. This happened to me a few years ago!
- Below is a generic photo (not Volvo) to show you how cut the factory crimp: cut the opposite sides slowly, once you hit the rubber, stop. Do NOT damage the fitting!
- Once the Upper Cooler Hose is out of the car, cut the crimp off. You can the see the barb fitting has 2 little ridges.
- Cut the new hose to the same length as the old hose (about 10.50 inches). Put the four (4) Oetiker clamps onto the hose first. Then wet the fitting with some ATF fluid and slide the hose onto the fittings.
- Use the Crimp Tool and crimp the Oetiker clamps moderately tight. Don’t overdo it as you can damage the Oetiker clamp. Also, orient the Oetiker clamps in such a way that you can access them later should you need to tighten them again.
- Now remove old O-ring/Seal Ring and install new ones. Use a bit of ATF to wet these seals prior to install.
- Clean it nicely then wrap both ends with Ziploc bags/rubber band to keep debris out. During install, the lower hose end will be going through a dirty area, trust me. Therefore it is essential that you cap both ends with Ziploc bags!
- Since I will flush the ATF later, I connected only the lower end (10-mm bolt), leaving the upper end alone for now.
- VolvoATF06.JPG (79.92 KiB) Viewed 13501 times
- VolvoATF07.JPG (68.97 KiB) Viewed 13501 times
2. LOWER COOLER HOSE: This is a fun hose to do.
- The Trans side is flared fitting, so no O-ring. The 22-mm nut on the cooler line is screwed into the 22-mm hollow bolt, which itself spins around and not fixed in one place. So you need to use an adjustable wrench to counter-hold, wedge the adjustable wrench against appropriate areas for either removal and install.
- Install Note: See photo #4 above so you can reproduce the same orientation of the metal pipe part of the cooler hose. The trick is to swing the adjustable wrench around and wedge it against the other side (near the dipstick housing).
- Crimp the 2 Oetiker clamps on the Trans side first. Now hold the new setup and look at the photo above. Bend the hose into a U-turn as in the photo, now spin the other fitting (radiator side) around so it faces the radiator. Then crimp the other 2 Oetiker clamps.
- The breaker bar/long extension/O2 sensor socket will undo the 22-mm nut nicely.
- VolvoATF08.JPG (120.07 KiB) Viewed 13501 times
- VolvoATF09.JPG (112.02 KiB) Viewed 13501 times
- Cover the hole with tape to keep debris out of the Trans while you work on the hose!
- VolvoATF10.JPG (95.49 KiB) Viewed 13501 times
- Final Note: once everything is buttoned up…
- Make sure both cooler hoses are fully inserted into the radiator. Use standard screw-type clamp over the 2 clips. Use a flashlight to be sure, it is easy to overlook here!
- Then flush the ATF as in the link above. The final fill-up is about 3.3 qts or so.
- Drive the car around the blocks and bring it back, now check ATF with car on flat surface, and engine hot and running.
- Now you know why Heineken beer is essential. Good Luck and Have Fun!
PS: If you decide to clean the area, then make sure the ATF dipstick is fully inserted, then wrap a small Ziploc bag/rubber band around it, then spray some engine cleaner such as Purple Power, then gently pour some water to rinse it off. Now remove the Ziploc bag.
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