The issue is the transmission doesn't correct for wear.
So if you don't update the valvebody, and build with tighter tolerances, it will wear out in about as long as it did the last time.
2000 S80 DIY 4T65EV-GT rebuild (in car) Topic is solved
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
S80 Transmission Rebuild In-Car DIY
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Oly_850
- Posts: 114
- Joined: 6 February 2011
- Year and Model: 2000 S80 T6
- Location: University Place, WA
- Been thanked: 1 time
Someone may have worked on mine previously, but I checked for wear marks and axial play in each valves, and found none. Each of the valves was smooth and the bores were clean, no scratches. I expected to find worn or stuck valves. At 152k the bands and hard parts showed very little wear so the ground up 4th gear shaft and burned 3rd gear clutch did no greater damage than making the trans fail to shift into 3rd or 4th gear.
One Note: The re-assembly job with this method is FAR easier if you wind up the engine to completely horizontal so you're not fighting gravity to insert the clutches, sprags and drums. I would also suggest pre-assembling the driven/3rd clutch shaft, sprag, splined short shaft ( in the sprag ) and the 2nd gear clutch drum with the stove pipe / reverse apply together and installing it all as one unit. It's heavy but easier than doing them separately and trying to line up friction plates individually.
One Note: The re-assembly job with this method is FAR easier if you wind up the engine to completely horizontal so you're not fighting gravity to insert the clutches, sprags and drums. I would also suggest pre-assembling the driven/3rd clutch shaft, sprag, splined short shaft ( in the sprag ) and the 2nd gear clutch drum with the stove pipe / reverse apply together and installing it all as one unit. It's heavy but easier than doing them separately and trying to line up friction plates individually.
'12 Ford Focus SE - Black Pearl
Owned:
'00 Volvo S80 T6 - Maroon
'98 Volvo V70 - Red
'90 Volvo 740 GLE - (sold, too far gone)
'96 Volvo 850 GLT - (totaled) :\
Want - A6 Quattro, XC90, C303
Owned:
'00 Volvo S80 T6 - Maroon
'98 Volvo V70 - Red
'90 Volvo 740 GLE - (sold, too far gone)
'96 Volvo 850 GLT - (totaled) :\
Want - A6 Quattro, XC90, C303
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MyS40T4
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 2 August 2010
- Year and Model: S80 T6 2000
- Location: Australia
- Been thanked: 1 time
Thanks again for the tips! I'll play it by ear and see what state everything's in. The subframe is coming off today and I'll see if I can get the gearbox out this weekend between family stuff...Oly_850 wrote:Someone may have worked on mine previously, but I checked for wear marks and axial play in each valves, and found none. Each of the valves was smooth and the bores were clean, no scratches. I expected to find worn or stuck valves. At 152k the bands and hard parts showed very little wear so the ground up 4th gear shaft and burned 3rd gear clutch did no greater damage than making the trans fail to shift into 3rd or 4th gear.
One Note: The re-assembly job with this method is FAR easier if you wind up the engine to completely horizontal so you're not fighting gravity to insert the clutches, sprags and drums. I would also suggest pre-assembling the driven/3rd clutch shaft, sprag, splined short shaft ( in the sprag ) and the 2nd gear clutch drum with the stove pipe / reverse apply together and installing it all as one unit. It's heavy but easier than doing them separately and trying to line up friction plates individually.
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Godfrey de SaintOmer
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 14 April 2014
- Year and Model: 2000 Volvo S80 T6
- Location: Iowa, USA
- Been thanked: 1 time
Thank. You. So. Much. Expressing the magnitude by which you have helped me, in text, would be galling. Oly_850, you are the liberator of the 4T65EV-GT. The benefactor whom delivered me from my stress and frustration with the seemingly never-ending issues on this car. You have bestowed upon me, hope, and a new fire to see this thing through. Your post is more than a contribution. I believe it to be an endowment. A legacy to aid amateur "DIY Mechanics" like me for many moons. I will follow your future posts, my friend.
To you, I tip my hat.
GdSO
To you, I tip my hat.
GdSO
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Oly_850
- Posts: 114
- Joined: 6 February 2011
- Year and Model: 2000 S80 T6
- Location: University Place, WA
- Been thanked: 1 time
GdSO,
I am humbled by your generous praise, thank you. I don't just fix Volvos to drive them, I fix them because it's a finite art, satisfyingly complex but sometimes just plain mysterious. It's a puzzle to me, and I always have a project car lined up to be the next Volvo rescue. I look for Volvos that everyone has absolutely given up on, and fix and fix and fix. It's therapy really.
If I can in any way help you with your project, I'd be happy to do so.
Regards,
Thomas
I am humbled by your generous praise, thank you. I don't just fix Volvos to drive them, I fix them because it's a finite art, satisfyingly complex but sometimes just plain mysterious. It's a puzzle to me, and I always have a project car lined up to be the next Volvo rescue. I look for Volvos that everyone has absolutely given up on, and fix and fix and fix. It's therapy really.
If I can in any way help you with your project, I'd be happy to do so.
Regards,
Thomas
'12 Ford Focus SE - Black Pearl
Owned:
'00 Volvo S80 T6 - Maroon
'98 Volvo V70 - Red
'90 Volvo 740 GLE - (sold, too far gone)
'96 Volvo 850 GLT - (totaled) :\
Want - A6 Quattro, XC90, C303
Owned:
'00 Volvo S80 T6 - Maroon
'98 Volvo V70 - Red
'90 Volvo 740 GLE - (sold, too far gone)
'96 Volvo 850 GLT - (totaled) :\
Want - A6 Quattro, XC90, C303
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Oly_850
- Posts: 114
- Joined: 6 February 2011
- Year and Model: 2000 S80 T6
- Location: University Place, WA
- Been thanked: 1 time
A couple more pictures left out of my original post - Oly
- Attachments
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- Input clutch, 3rd gear clutch, 2nd gear clutch and apply drum all standing on top of the sprag and short splined shaft to engage the planetary all assembled as one stack for installation past the installed reverse band. Remember that all of the rebuild manuals / videos assume you have the transmission out, in a fixture and facing down for this procedure, which I did not. Lining things up otherwise is very difficult so I used this method.
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- Make certain that your shift sensor mechanism looks JUST like this before you put the side cover on. The black sensor carrier needs to rotate completely to the left behind the lip of 4th gear carrier, and notice that the detent roller is between the two black plastic blocks. To insure proper position, disconnect the spring clip on the shift cable (directly above) remove the cable and manually test the action of the shift / detent / sensor assembly. If you've put it together correctly you should be able to do the following:
1) Rotate the shift lever all the way towards the firewall, this is Park.
2) Make certain that the actual shifter is in the Park position.
3) Rotate the right front wheel backwards, so the parking prawl / gear snaps into a groove, it should make an audible 'click'.
4) Put the shift cable back on its pin, it should fall into place with zero resistance, forward or back.
5) (carefully) hook up the engine compartment battery connection, turn the key to position II.
6) Ensure that the shift position indicator 'agrees' with the fact that you are actually in park.
7) (after putting something in the now empty LF caliper to provide resistance and keep you from blowing it up...) foot on brake, shift into all gears, shift indicator on shifter and in instrument display should agree.
Continue. Lower assembly, side cover on, and so on..
'12 Ford Focus SE - Black Pearl
Owned:
'00 Volvo S80 T6 - Maroon
'98 Volvo V70 - Red
'90 Volvo 740 GLE - (sold, too far gone)
'96 Volvo 850 GLT - (totaled) :\
Want - A6 Quattro, XC90, C303
Owned:
'00 Volvo S80 T6 - Maroon
'98 Volvo V70 - Red
'90 Volvo 740 GLE - (sold, too far gone)
'96 Volvo 850 GLT - (totaled) :\
Want - A6 Quattro, XC90, C303
-
MyS40T4
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 2 August 2010
- Year and Model: S80 T6 2000
- Location: Australia
- Been thanked: 1 time
I joined the transmission rebuild party - but have removed the subframe and gearbox from the car.
People comment on how hard the turbo oil drain pipe seals are to replace - it's a lot easier without the gearbox/subframe in the car
Disassembly of the transmission was pretty straightforward, my 3rd gear clutches aren't as bad as Oly_850's but not far off. The 4th gear splines are worn as expected and the forward drive band broken. Virtually no wear on any of the remaining unbroken bands/clutches but I'll replace them all anyway...
The reluctor plate has a loose pin which is not good so will replace it.
2 of the 3 M8 valve body bolts were extremely tight as expected and the torx 30 bolt down the bottom resulted in my torx bit shearing off. The M8 bolts have shallow heads and like to round off despite using a 6 point socket and care.
I was blown away by the various levels of tightness (or not) for all the transmission case/valve body bolts - no signs of previous activity in there but I think whoever put it together didn't give a damn. Surprised it didn't leak like a sieve and not surprised it failed.
When I first got the car I flushed the transmission and replaced the filter but despite this, there was a fair amount of black clutch material in the torque converter (still trying to flush it out), in the valve body channels, the trans cooler in the radiator and as a post mortem of the filter showed, in the new filter. Any of this clutch material could jam a valve causing an issue resulting in the trans needing to be dismantled again...
Torque converter (FMVV for T6) - has 6 bolts for attachment rather than 3 bolts for GM motors.
People comment on how hard the turbo oil drain pipe seals are to replace - it's a lot easier without the gearbox/subframe in the car
Disassembly of the transmission was pretty straightforward, my 3rd gear clutches aren't as bad as Oly_850's but not far off. The 4th gear splines are worn as expected and the forward drive band broken. Virtually no wear on any of the remaining unbroken bands/clutches but I'll replace them all anyway...
The reluctor plate has a loose pin which is not good so will replace it.
2 of the 3 M8 valve body bolts were extremely tight as expected and the torx 30 bolt down the bottom resulted in my torx bit shearing off. The M8 bolts have shallow heads and like to round off despite using a 6 point socket and care.
I was blown away by the various levels of tightness (or not) for all the transmission case/valve body bolts - no signs of previous activity in there but I think whoever put it together didn't give a damn. Surprised it didn't leak like a sieve and not surprised it failed.
When I first got the car I flushed the transmission and replaced the filter but despite this, there was a fair amount of black clutch material in the torque converter (still trying to flush it out), in the valve body channels, the trans cooler in the radiator and as a post mortem of the filter showed, in the new filter. Any of this clutch material could jam a valve causing an issue resulting in the trans needing to be dismantled again...
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MyS40T4
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 2 August 2010
- Year and Model: S80 T6 2000
- Location: Australia
- Been thanked: 1 time
A few pics of some of the dodgy bits from my transmission:
The 3rd gear clutches (they're toast):
The 4th gear hub (partly worn - you can see the band of wear):
Finally, the forward band which failed (sorry, can't find the missing bit):
The 3rd gear clutches (they're toast):
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