1998 S70 T5 Low Compression after stall, will not retart

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 16 Jan 2007, 14:02

Your low compression is probably related to excessive fuel washing the cylinder walls of all oil lubrication and causing the low compression readings. If your spark plugs are gas fouled ,your car won't start (which seems like they might be) solution,new spark plugs.From what I've read ,it seems like too much fuel is getting in the cylinder. Other excessive fuel cause could be leaking fuel injectors which I don't think is the cause because the likely hood of all five leaking is not probable. Dirty or clogged air filter can cause excessive fuel rich conditions also. Try taking the air filter out when trying to start with new plugs
From all the time and cost of the parts you keep changing, if you can't get it going , I'd get a AAA gold membership for like $100 a year and get it towed up to 100 miles free. Guessing and buying parts can ad up to a ton of money.

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 16 Jan 2007, 18:03

Thanks for the input. Remember I replaced the pluggs 2 days ago to try and start it. So far it's the only expense besides $7.95 for a used camshaft sensor and a used Coolant Temp Sensor. I'm still trying to find the cause of the stall. I'm snowed in or sleeted in, go figure San Antonio. I tried everything so now I'm just gonna traced the wires that don't check out because I can't be towed because of the weather. Your logic with triple A makes sense thanks.

Anyone can help about the A21 terminal I mentioned in the last post, I 'd appreciate it.
Tri

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 16 Jan 2007, 18:23

One consideration is that the camshaft position sensor you got used was no good. When I look up A21 in VADIS, I get camshaft position sensor signal which should read 0-5V.

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 16 Jan 2007, 18:40

I had a 1994 850 that stalled and started and finally would not start anymore and it was my cam shaft position sensor. I did have a engine code that indicated that. Mine cost almost $200. If you are putting in a old used one you had laying around it may be bad, otherwise why would it be out of the car, but a bad one will pervent the car from running

Post by **pfeener** » 16 Jan 2007, 19:00

Keep in mind guys, he does have spark. If the camshaft sensor was bad, he shouldn't have spark; correct.

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 16 Jan 2007, 19:39

That's my point Vadis said it should read 5 volts mine reads 11.76 volts. Chilton repair manual said if it's over 5 volts there is a short circuit to voltage in the wiring between Camshaft sensor and the ECU. That's what I'm looking for. If the ECU is getting the wrong info in voltage just maybe that's why I could be getting so much fuel.
TRI

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 17 Jan 2007, 06:35

More for info for everyone: You can still have gas fouled spark plugs that spark when checking them out of the cylinder and grounding them ,but under compression they don't fire. I had that problem with a motorcycle once,"faulty plug under compression". Once a plug gets gas soaked ,even a new one,it's no good. The gas gets inside the plug
Did you try spraying in starting fluid into the throttle bore to see if it fires?

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 17 Jan 2007, 07:17

Starting fluid was one of my first steps in the troubleshooting process. I believe something happen in the beginning to cause the stall that led to the gas washing, that led to the soaked plugs and low compression. I'm trying to backup and fix the codes. The car just stalled like someone choked it. The first code was 02 sensor, from what I understandthis sends a signal to ECU to lean out fuel, another code was 117 for ECT this also has something to do with fuel enrichment. As I explained earlier I have a bad voltage signal that I will have to trace for a short circuit. This could have led to the last set of codes 301-305 Misfire in all cyliders. It's sleeting again and My car is in the middle of it, so I'm on a weather hold.

Thanks Bob, Pfeener & MIJ, I'm still open to possibilities. Please note I will also be testing my expansion tank with a pressurized pump to see if I get coolant leakage into the cylinder head to rule out blown head gasket.

When I get a fix on this problem I will post it clear enough for everyone to see and there will be no question of what was wrong. I tried to find alot of fixes on this forum with people with similiar problems, but alot of them are not that clear. I will make mine very clear. Thanks for hanging in there guys
TRI

Post by **pfeener** » 17 Jan 2007, 08:01

Thanks trilarry; I'd love to know what the final fix turns out to be.

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 27 Jan 2007, 21:03

UPDATE!

ECU checked out good. Changed out d-cap, Rotor, coolant temp sensor. Camshaft sensor. car still fails to start. It has now been a whole month. Will try again in the AM. If there is no fix will tow to the dealer on Monday.

Car seems to be spinning over pretty fast now. Compression is still low. I still have spark and fuel. What are the posibilities of an Imobilser going out. I do have a fuse for one in the fuse box? (I know I sound desperate right now, I really am)