04 XC70 Replacing front pads and rotors

[el_loco]

My '04 Xc70 has 107k miles and the rotors are just below minimum so I'll be replacing them with new pads in the next couple of weeks. I understand that there are 2 sizes of rotors on this model and then, of course, corresponding pads so I need to know which are on mine before ordering parts.

1) I have not found any good write-ups for this pretty straightforward brake job, can someone point me in the right direction if there are one or more helpful resources out there (I do not have VIDA)

2) I mostly need torque specs for everything, especially and most urgently for the wheel lug nuts as I will pull a wheel to measure my rotors before ordering parts.

3) Are there any surprises I should know about (seals or O-rings or anything I might thrash and would want to replace as a matter of routine while I'm doing the front brakes)?

Thanks

[cwise]

I didi this a few months ago on my 2002 xc. really straightforward and easy. I followed the FCP video for P1 cars and it was a breeze.

[el_loco]

Perfect, thanks cwise I'll check it out.
What pads and rotors did you go with? Does the video list torque specs or did you have them from another source?

[abscate]

I don't think I've put a torque wrench on a lug nut/bolt in 20 years. Make sure wheel is flat against wheel hub, spin them down to contact, drop car, then estimate 100 FT lbs with 100 pounds on a 12 inch lever.

Technically no lube should be used on lug hardware but in the salty Northeast I do this too.

[el_loco]

I don't think I've put a torque wrench on a lug nut/bolt in 20 years. Make sure wheel is flat against wheel hub, spin them down to contact, drop car, then estimate 100 FT lbs with 100 pounds on a 12 inch lever.

Or I suppose I could set my impact wrench to a medium setting and torque them that way. I do like having torque settings though, it's never a bad thing to know what the engineer had in mind when a thing was designed.

Technically no lube should be used on lug hardware but in the salty Northeast I do this too.

I've hit the lug threads with a SMALL amount of anti seize before but don't typically concern myself with it as I'm in the PNW and have never experienced any serious issues with lug bolt corrosion. What kind of lube would you use on a lug bolt, out of curiosity?

[cwise]

I used the Brembo rotors and the Akebono pads. When I replaced, I had only had the car for about a month, so I can't really compare these parts to stock. They definitely perform better than my worn out rotors and pads, and the Akebono pads create very little dust, which is quite nice.
I am not sure where I got the torque specs, either online, or I used VIDA. If you need me to open up VIDA and track them down just let me know.

[oragex]

Tips

The right moment to also flush the brake oil because you need to push the pistons back on each caliper to fit the new pads. Don't force the piston back without opening the bleeder, it could damage valves in the brake circuit

- open the bleeders and while bleeding don't push the brake pedal all the way down, only about 1inch at most (or it will damage the master cylinder)
- rear bleeders will be seized, use penetrating oil weeks in advance, don't force the tiny bleeder.
- after opening a bleeder, push the piston back, this way the old oil behind the piston will drain
- a bleeder doesn't have to be tighten back too strongly
- at all time keep an eye on the fluid reservoir so it doesn't go below MIN line

Servicing the caliper
- remove the sliding pins and pull out the rubber boot
- sand all the rust inside the hole in the caliper where the sliding pins rubber is seated. make sure you see clear metal all around inside the hole. rust builds up there preventing the pins to slide normally.
- add grease on the sanded surface so the boot slides back in easily.
- grease inside the boot only with silicone grease (all other grease will damage the rubber)

It's a great moment to also inspect the front wheels flexible (rubber) braking hose. it tends to crack at the lower portion and needs replacing.

[abscate]

I don't think I've put a torque wrench on a lug nut/bolt in 20 years. Make sure wheel is flat against wheel hub, spin them down to contact, drop car, then estimate 100 FT lbs with 100 pounds on a 12 inch lever.

Or I suppose I could set my impact wrench to a medium setting and torque them that way. I do like having torque settings though, it's never a bad thing to know what the engineer had in mind when a thing was designed.

Technically no lube should be used on lug hardware but in the salty Northeast I do this too.

I've hit the lug threads with a SMALL amount of anti seize before but don't typically concern myself with it as I'm in the PNW and have never experienced any serious issues with lug bolt corrosion. What kind of lube would you use on a lug bolt, out of curiosity?

Light machine oil, or even left over engine oil from an oil change. If you are using torque settings, you will probably find that lubing the lugs nuts/bolts will make you over torque the fasteners, so you cant use the torque numbers in this case. I lube, then tighten to my 'experience level'

[el_loco]

Thanks very much to you all, I really appreciate it. I ended up getting Genuine Volvo pads and rotors on sale. Maybe next pad change I'll try some Akebono's as I've heard good things.

cwise: I'd appreciate torque specs if it wouldn't be too much to ask!

oragex: Awesome breakdown.

abscate: You sound like you know what you're doing. I wish I had your experience level to trust myself over FSM torque specs!

[abscate]

I use an electric impact wrench to remove, but the car jack handle to tighten the lug nuts/bolts. That way, when you get a flat on the highway, you have a shot at getting them off.

All data lists wheel lug nut torque at 80 FT lbs. if your wrench is 12 inches long, put 80 pounds of force on the end. This would be for dry nuts. With lube, you would use less torque.

For most people, putting a foot onto the factory wrench will over torque the lugs. It's better to under rather than over torque. They have to be grossly under torqued ( 10 FT lbs or less?) to come loose.