DIY: 1998 S70 GLT Turbo Coolant Hoses and 2 Radiator Hoses

[cn90]

The large hose close to the turbo is the heater hose.

A trick when installing any new hose, get the appropriate socket and insert into one end of the hose to expand the hose. Let it sit for a good 10 min. This makes any hose insertion a lot easier. Just wet the inside of the hose with a bit of engine oil, it will slide in nicely.

PS: The Turbo Inlet hose, although well-made and swells up from oil dripping down from the turbo is a big trouble-maker. Some people in have lost an engine because of rapid loss of coolant/overheat etc.
So if the car has more than 130K, definitely replace this hose, the hose is cheap and the labor is fun lol...

[castconcrete]

So, if you heeded the warning and stayed away from the radiator petcock when draining the coolant,
BUT, as you were turning over under the car your shoulder bumped the radiator petcock and broke it off to the point that what is left in place (the threaded portion) is somewhat recessed in the radiator...
what to do to remove the remaining portion. I am thinking to take a flat bladed screwdriver and kind of tap it into what is left to try to turn it out. Obviously, the objective is to not damage the threads in the radiator. Anyone here have any other suggestions? There is not enough left to grab onto with pliers.

[abscate]

If it is closed, just leave it alone. The weak part is the thin wall belie the sealing Oring, so it won't leak if you snapped it off from either over torquing or from hitting it.

[castconcrete]

I would, but it seems (looks) as if there is a small bit of seepage. I have a new one on the way, and my preference would be to coax this one out and replace it.

[abscate]

Maybe heat an old screwdriver up and melt a new slot in, let harden and then twist out?

You could really Charlie Foxtrot your radiator trying to fix this. If mine started too seep, I would JB weld and stuff it shut.

[castconcrete]

That certainly is my concern. I was thinking along the screwdriver line, maybe an easy-out of the right size? I will wait for the new valve to arrive, study it...and then formulate a plan. Thanks for the input.

[j-dawg]

Maybe heat an old screwdriver up and melt a new slot in, let harden and then twist out?

You could really Charlie Foxtrot your radiator trying to fix this. If mine started too seep, I would JB weld and stuff it shut.

you can also try to JB a tool into the broken petcock. JB Weld makes a product called JB Water Weld that will harden underwater or in wet conditions.

[mecheng]

Is their anything to grab onto? If so, use vice grips. I've never had a problem with the petcock, and I've opened many of them. I always use an allen key, I'm wondering if this is a better method as a socket may put too much torque or moment on them. The allen key also insures you do not overtorque it.

[castconcrete]

I think that I have decided to play smart for once. I monitered the area and deetermined that there is not any seepage, ran a bead of silicone caulk around the perimeter of the threaded interface, and have decided to call it a day.
I will have to say that the mention of an allen wrench in the last post here...well I am going to take one more look. I think the center opening in what is left of the petcock is circular, but maybe I did not give it a close enough look. If what I have left is still keyed for an allen wrench...then maybe, but I am so proud of myself for leaving well enough alone and not furthering my headache that I may leave it.

[abscate]

As we say in sailing, better is the enemy of good enough.