850, 940 Buying Questions

larryh · Post by **larryh** » 27 Jan 2007, 20:04

on that broken odometer.. if she has service records (with the milage on them), you can tell pretty close how long it's been broken. seems like a pretty low milage car, but watch out, s.f. city miles are a lot harder on a car than highway miles.

another thing to consider...
i would suggest looking for cars with some of the big items replaced already. a car with 89000 miles could (prolly will) be ready for a lot of work. in my opinion a car with more miles and a bunch of new parts (say, a new transmission) could be a better deal. the seller might also be a bit more motivated if they've been dumping cash into it for the last year....

and...Hey dripcandles.. that was a LOT more than 2 cents worth bro

!

Italiano86 · Post by **Italiano86** » 27 Jan 2007, 21:54

Haha, she emailed me back, this is what she said: "I have maintenance records, just serviced the car next one due in April, current registration, nothing at all major broken to the car,odometer died shortly ago as per the carafacts report, probably 95,000 - thats all the picutres Elyn. I asked her to send me the carfacts report and the vin number so I can see what's what. How much would it cost to replace the brakes on the car? I may check it out tomorrow if my moms not busy and the lady is available, it will be the first time to drive an 850 and I can't wait. My moms 940 turbo is damn fast, so I can imagine this one will be a beast. Is there any way to look up a vin number for free?

larryh · Post by **larryh** » 28 Jan 2007, 00:20

if you can do the brakes yourself, for me it was $330 for the pads and rotors for all four wheels at fcp groton (just did mine last year). not sure what a repair shop will charge, but my guess would be $600- $700.

good luck

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 28 Jan 2007, 09:14

Haha, she emailed me back, this is what she said: "I have maintenance records, just serviced the car next one due in April, current registration, nothing at all major broken to the car,odometer died shortly ago as per the carafacts report, probably 95,000 - thats all the picutres Elyn. I asked her to send me the carfacts report and the vin number so I can see what's what. How much would it cost to replace the brakes on the car? I may check it out tomorrow if my moms not busy and the lady is available, it will be the first time to drive an 850 and I can't wait. My moms 940 turbo is damn fast, so I can imagine this one will be a beast. Is there any way to look up a vin number for free?

On a '94 you can dump the actual mileage from the ECU and remove all doubt. The procedure is here:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... php?t=6731

...Lee

Post by **luketrash** » 28 Jan 2007, 11:13

I bought my 94 850 thining it had 91k miles on it.. The odometer was broken, and I popped the hood and learned that the car had 108k miles on it!!

Carfax last reported the Odometer reading in July of 2005. After the car is 10 years old, apparently they are exempt from reporting actual mileage... So, I called to complain to the dealer and told them I wanted reimbursed according to the difference in book value (200 dollars).. They finally sent me a check after I threatened to drive back and annoy them.

I fixed the odometer for 54 bucks plus taking the cluster apart 3 times

Third time is a charm and it works even in cold weather now...

As for the brakes, I bought Mintex pads and ATE rotors all around, for ~250.00 plus shipping. More spendy than using local car parts store parts, but higher quality, and so far it's the best brake job I've ever done as far as no squealing afterwards and a good combination of quick stopping without problems of fade, extensive brake dust, or other issues that you usually make tradeoffs for. I like the Mintex pads.

I buy all of my parts at FCP groton. Low prices, fast shipping with good packaging of the materials.... 3 days from CT to IA.

Italiano86 · Post by **Italiano86** » 28 Jan 2007, 13:03

Looks like I'm gonna have to stick with the 240 for now. I have always wanted my own car because this one is as about as appealing as a pinto, but I will have a hard time paying for insurance and repairs, since I'm full time student with barely part time work. I can afford the car, but insurance would eat up most of my paychecks, so I guess the 240 will have to last a few years. The speakers are totally blown and I have no radio, I guess I will just have to replace them since I'm stuck with this car for awhile, lol. Cali insurance sucks, my 6 month premium average is like 600, with only 25k liability and nothing else. I even have a perfect record with a student discount, what gives? Everything is more expensive here it seems, lol.

Post by **luketrash** » 28 Jan 2007, 19:11

I think everything is more expensive out there including annual registration.. In Iowa we don't even have to pass emissions testing (they don't have it here.)

Full coverage on my 850 wagon through State Farm is 150 bucks every 6 months, so 300 dollars/year. (and I complain that it's too expensive, ha!)

Insurance on my crappy 240 was 50 bucks/month when I was a student. After I got out of college the rates went down until Sept 11th happened. When I had my 240, I had a big stereo in it. I ran Boston 4" speakers in the front and back doors. Those ugly, square plastic grilles that Radio Shack sells look excellent in a Volvo 240

They look stock even.

petershen1984 · Post by **petershen1984** » 15 Mar 2007, 06:18

I agree on the posts acknowledging that the white block engines are more prone to issues here and there - and that the red block would score more points for dependability. However, the white block engines are more modern, produces more power, and weigh less, and are smoother to run than the straigh-4). The fact the inline-5 now powers nearly the entire line of late model Volvos (unless otherwise specified) gives credit to the success of this engine in the "new" 850 and the 960s.

The red blocks are known as "low friction motors" and oversquare (long bore short stroke, more precisely 96 x 80 mm), providing you with suffecient low end torque, but not enough to attain maximum horsepower (the naturally aspirated engines). The white blocks have a 90 mm stroke and bores between 80~84 mm depending on engine displacement), and even the naturally aspirated B5204 will provide smooth acceleration all the way up to the 6,500 rpm redline (floored and in sport mode).

I now drive the 960, but I've also had some experience with the said 850. Even though my 960 is not equipped with the handling refinements in the latest models, I prefer the rear wheel drive "pushy" feel over being "pulled" forward by the car.

Git-R-Dunn · Post by **Git-R-Dunn** » 27 Aug 2007, 19:58

yeah i would go with an 850, try to get the 97 model year. i have one, its been the most reliable car i have ever run across. i have 172,500 on it, and i dont even have a single problem with it...the 940s are sick, but the 850 is far more superior. so go with one of them.