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98 s70 getting timing belt on - mech tensioner

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
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mecheng
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Re: 98 s70 getting timing belt on - mech tensioner

Post by mecheng »

phat78ta wrote:There is a small nub on the oil pump behind the crank pulley that has a rubber sleeve over it. It gave me holy fits trying to get my TB back on. Sounds like you are having the same issue. Feel behind the crank pulley on the bottom right and see if the rubber piece has slid out towards the pulley. That is what happened to me. Slide it back, make sure the belt gets past the nub, and you should be golden.
I just replaced the mechanical tensioner because it was making noise when cold and the remaining components were not due. It was easy to replace the tensioner, you don't need to remove the serp belt but it was a pain to get the belt on and I believe you need to leave the bolt on the tensioner only finger tight.

I will report that the old tensioner pulley feels fine, so I'm guessing something in the mechanism is either not tensioning correctly when cold or is worn causing the noise.

It has an 05 stamped on the back, does that mean it was made in 2005?
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mecheng
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Post by mecheng »

What do you guys think of this stuff for the WP bolts. I always have a can of it at home. The main use is on gas lines, but it says it is good for water as well up to 10,000 psi ! and 500F.

That is if you don't get the new bolts with your WP. Use the old ones with this compound. I think it would be better for high temps over the plumbers tape.

http://www.oatey.com/products/thread-se ... -with-ptfe
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rmmagow
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Post by rmmagow »

I've used this stuff much in the same manner as I'd use teflon tape. Works the same and is easier to use. This'd work fine on the WP bolts and I've used it on Mazda WP bolts with no problem.
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

I have used that stuff for home plumbing system. Similar to Telfon, it is designed to seal any imperfection so water or natural gas does not leak from the plumbing system.

For cars, that stuff will not increase the "holding power" of the WP bolts. Simply re-use the WP bolts, or get new ones.
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regent
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Post by regent »

I have it in my garage and use it all the time
IMHO, this stuff works well because PTFE is none other than Teflon :lol:
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Post by precopster »

I don't believe the white compound the factory used was meant to "hold" or lock the bolts. It is meant as a thread sealer to prevent coolant working its way back up the thread and out of the block where the threads aren't captive which I believe is the case with 5 out of the 7 bolts.

I've been using teflon plumber's tape on Volvo WP bolts for years now. None have fallen or come loose.......yet 8-)

I did this originally because the bolts supplied with FCPs pumps were shorter than original and protruded less out of the WP and I didn't want to strip the block.
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regent
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Post by regent »

precopster wrote:...the bolts supplied with FCPs pumps were shorter than original and protruded less out of the WP and I didn't want to strip the block.
In my 40+ years of wrenching I have never stripped a block...
(I always use a torque wrench as I don't have 'the feel' to rely on) :D
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Post by precopster »

Good point but if the threads are shorter than the factory specified you stand the chance of stripping them EVEN at the factory torque settings.

To be safer with a shorter thread in aluminium you should apply the shorter thread reach= lower torque rule.
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regent
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Post by regent »

I do not want to hurt anybody's feelings but...
We cannot argue that the lower torque value will be sufficient to produce a reliable assembly. Just the thought of the WP sprocket being a critical component in the timing belt drive makes me uncomfortable enough with those 7 fasteners left in there under-torqued... 8) And with the PTFE patch, that is wet torque, too.

In my line of work we say 'better safe than sorry' = 'use the right size fastener and torque spec rather than gestimate' (that's what protocol says, too)

C'mon, the correct size screws don't cost but a few pennies and are very easy to procure. :D
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Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that

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precopster
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Post by precopster »

That's exactly why I don't use the wrongly supplied bolts and if I must I just reseal the factory bolts with thread tape. I had an ongoing discussion with FCP about the bolts afew years ago and I believe they rectified the problem, though at the time they denied any wrongdoing.

Sometimes I purchase Aisin WPs from Amazon which don't come with them.
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