xHeart, I read both threads you linked to and sympathize with problems you experienced. But since my rack is not leaking, I would be loath to undertake replacing it in total with a rebuilt at this point, because at my age, I doubt I have the stamina to do what you did. It appears your rack seals may have failed because of an inadequate seal of the boots which then resulted in rusting of the shaft/piston. I used to own a backhoe and know full well what happens to hydraulic seals if rust develops on a piston, hence we tried to leave all cylinders in the retracted position at the end of each day.xHeart wrote:Working on inner tie-rod will damage steering rack if you are a first timer - failure would follow. Hammering, heating, excessive force, wrong tool is not recommended.dosbricks wrote:Question: Would it help any to turn the wheel to extend the rack toward the side you are working on just a couple of inches so as to get better access for the pipe wrench to get a bite?
Read this post https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=54721
Save all the money you are spending on the tie-rods, and purchase a rebuild SMI rack. It will come with inner and outer tie-rod, boot, etc. Replace the entire steering rack. You will save and get ahead.
Apparently some folks have success replacing their inner tie rods themselves. The main reason I would prefer to do it myself is that putting the car in a shop often results in hidden peripheral damage that shows up later--I euphemistically call it handing your car over to the torturers. I'm dealing with a case of that right now. Nevertheless, I appreciate your warnings of what might go wrong and I'll heed those and weigh them in deciding if I want to tackle the inner tie rods. Without guys like you blazing the way and sharing your experiences, how would any of us know what to anticipate before starting a difficult repair. Thanks.
dos
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