How to get this off ( rear strut rubber bushing)

[daversm]

yup I think I'm gonna have to go in with a saw

[daversm]

Is the bolt that the struct goes on replaceable, I cut too deep and cut the actual bolt?

Would anybody know were I could find a replacement?

This is the stud/bolt I am talking about. I cut deep into mine.

[abscate]

I can't see the cut. If its less than a third of the diameter of the stud, don't worry about it. You can straighten the thread on the cut bolt with a die or carefully threading a bolt onto it, with some oil, Stop if there is any resistance with the bolt.

[daversm]

That's a picture I got of google, not mine. Mine is in very bad shape unfortunately, its just not usable. The cut is almost half way through the bolt.

But I am a bit sacred that this bolt is not removable. I don't see how I can remove it. If it is removable I was thinking maybe just go to the junk yard and grab one from there.

[abscate]

The 64,000 USD question is where is the cut?

If its on the thread, the only function the bolt has is to keep the shock from sliding off the stud.There is little axial load on this, so if the thread is cut, just bolt it up and forget about it.

If it is on the thread shaft, that does have shear force. If the cut is more than half way towards the stud end relative to the shock mount....bolt and forget.

If its more than half the other way, I would have it welded (remember the shock has to fit over the weld)

Good news is if it does fail, you will see it and it won't be any more expensive, ergo I think its worth testing the safety margin.

[daversm]

I really don't think I can use this. Its Just all messed up. As you can see in the pictures I messed up bad.

So this bolt isn't replacement? Is it welded on?

[jreed]

Agreed.... that's a picture of the stud on my '97 855. I got lucky on that job... the old shock absorber just popped off after I removed the bolt.
I wrote up a little DIY guide and posted it here a while back:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=40415
There is an image in there of my using a long screwdriver to pry the old shock off.

[Ozark Lee]

That isn't pretty but I think you might be able to recover. Get the rest of the bushing off and post back a picture. The threads look a bit grim but I think you could chase them with a die and it would be serviceable.

The part that I can't tell about is just how chopped up the stud is behind the threads. If the damage is limited to the area just behind the threads it isn't that huge of a deal in an engineering sense. The part that must be solid is the area at the junction between the stud and the trailing arm since that is were the lateral load is focused. As Steve pointed out, the axial load isn't much, just enough to keep the shock absorber firmly fixed onto the tapered stud. If there are cuts in the stud behind the threaded area you might not want to fully torque the nut down for fear of snapping the stud at the score marks.

They used aircraft style nuts on a couple of my cars that I have replaced the rear shocks on which should keep the nut from walking off. I think this is also a place where I might add some Loctite Red if it wasn't fully torqued to spec.

...Lee

[tryingbe]

It's a little late now, WD40 stands for "Water Displacement, 40th formula" Great for driving moisture off thing, not good as penetrating oil.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil, Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, are penetrating oil, breaking rust and corrosion loose.



To our current problem, I would go to junkyard, cut a stud out flush off, cut your stud flush off, take your car to a welding ship, weld the stud onto the area.

[Ozark Lee]

To our current problem, I would go to junkyard, cut a stud out flush off, cut your stud flush off, take your car to a welding shop, weld the stud onto the area.

That isn't quite as simple as it sounds. The trailing arm is aluminum and the stud is steel. They can be welded but you can't just use a stick welder and getting the replacement stud aligned in place is a challenge. If a junk yard trip is involved just get the whole trailing arm.

Replacing the trailing arm, unfortunately, means a trip to the alignment shop to get the rear toe set correctly and it likely also means replacing the end link and the delta link bushing(s). Personally, I would do everything possible to salvage what is there.

...Lee