How to get this off ( rear strut rubber bushing)

[cn90]

- Next time, use a dremel tool with cutting wheel and cut LENGTHWISE. Go slow.

- This stud may be OK, when tightening the 18-mm nut, decrease the torque a bit to avoid breaking the stud.

You should be fine. Even a broken stud causes no safety issue, the rear just bounces around more than usual. When you get to that point, replace the stud (drill the old one out and use a new stud).

[JDS60R]

I agree. Have a local welder open the cut and weld in material. You will be fine.

[JDS60R]

Many welders will come to you. They won't take long and the charge is so much better than changing the delta link. If you can't get a welder its off to the yard for a delta link. If the welder won't reweld the stud then have the junkyard cut off one for you and the welder will weld it in.

Some welders don't stock the filler needed for this application so make sure they know what they are repairing before showing up.

[daversm]

Thanks for all the info guys, helped a lot. The second one came off much easier.
And yup, I'm going to look into the welding option.

Thanks again

[abscate]

You don't need to weld that. The 18mm nut is way over-engineered for the job of applying lateral pressure to the shock mount to keep it in the taper. Its tapped 18mm just because the diameter of the taper has to be that size to take the force of the shock mount.

Your cut is nasty, but it does nothing to compromise the shock mount load. If you use a lock nut, or two nuts locked together with a washer to push the shock mount onto the taper, and then lock them with the washer instead of the tension of on that stud, it will be fine for 99 years.

If you torque that nut to spec, it might break the stud, but probably not.

On edit...backing off on this. A real PE should do this calculation rather than a jerk with a keyboard.

[daversm]

Thats actually what I did I used some washers to push the strut over the taper. And I drove the car around, bounced on it. The stud isn't showing any signs of breaking or even bending. I feel like I'm fine with it, not scared about it snapping off.

But maybe if I see signs of bending later on ill looking into welding. But for now I think I'm OK


Thanks for all the help and advise abscate.

[JDS60R]

If the shock has thrust forces laterally it will likely break the stud. The shock load can be absorbed by the remainder of that stud if the motion is truly only up and down, but that is not the reality of suspension dynamics. Cornering forces create lateral stress. Even if you double nut lock the retainer the lateral force is transmitted to the remainder of the stud.

That being said, it is a "rear" shock which is generally under loaded so it is possible it may never experience the loads it was designed for. That cut is significant and will break with any decent, repeated, side load.