No heat to the floor 96 850R with climate control

Post by **billofdurham** » 05 Feb 2007, 12:20

The damper motors are mounted on the climate control box under the dash.

To get to them remove the sound dampening panels either side of the dash. Remove the glove box and you can then get at the climate control box.

Bill.

ycmike · Post by **ycmike** » 05 Feb 2007, 13:16

The previous diagram is good- the floor damper is the easiest one to get at.
Remove the glove box and it's right there.
Seems to me the Haynes manual has some good pictures as well.

Mike

craig1104 · Post by **craig1104** » 07 Feb 2007, 10:17

thanks guys! much appreciated.

Craig

craig1104 · Post by **craig1104** » 06 Oct 2007, 12:18

Guys,
I took the glove box out and I think I saw the floor/defroster damper motor, but I couldn't get it out. Is there a way to get at it? I am afraid of setting off the air bag. What is the black metal device that sits below the glove box, that's is in the way.

Craig

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 06 Oct 2007, 15:43

What is the black metal device that sits below the glove box, that's is in the way.

That is the knee bolster. Although it has the SRS warning stickers all over it there is absolutely no association between it and the SRS. I think the stickers are more of a warning that you are getting close to the SRS.

Four nuts will release the bolster if it is in your way. On my manual unit I could get to everything from the bottom after I removed the lower dash panel but the bolster may be in the way on an automatic system.

The only problem you will encounter is that as you remove the nuts that hold the bolster in place they tend to fall out of the socket down into the bolster. If you remove it entirely they just fall out of the end. If you partially remove it you may need to go after them with a flexible gripper tool. I think I got mine with a magnetic tipped screwdriver but it took a few tries.

...Lee

Post by **Maxbaby** » 06 Oct 2007, 18:21

I just dealt with this problem this past spring... here's a link showing you the flap and the shaft which could possibly be split...

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... opic=67666

You don't have to remove anything other than the glovebox insert to check as this is how I diagnosed the problem shown. You'll need a torx in the shape of an allen-type key, not a screwdriver type, as it's a very tight space in there and a screwdriver type would not fit for me. In the end, what I actually used to re-install it was a "flex-shaft" socket extension with a torx bit in the end. It fit back in there and then it was just a case of being a bit of a contortionist to twist the three torx screws back in.

The flex-shaft is something I had never seen before and is just what it sounds like, flexible, and is made of heavy-duty woven cable. It cost about $10 from Princess Auto. They take quite a bit of torque, and proved invaluable for my recent work removing that far left lower bolt on the intake manifold while replacing the oil catch can, but that's another story...

I ended up replacing the flap and therefore removed the entire dash. It took about 9 relaxeddhours in total from start to finish and was spread over two days. I found some awesome information with detailed step-by-step pics and will dig up the link if you decide to go that way but if that is indeed your problem, you might want to consider the suggestion made above, which I'll expand on...

If the shaft is split but the four sides of plastic are still there, get some good solid copper wire (not the multi-strand wire, but the single piece copper wire... Home depot for instance), and carefully and tightly (but not overtight) wrap the shaft continually along the length that is exposed.

... one other thought... If memory serves, right now your air flow should be out of the defroster since the flap is sitting closed. Make sure you turn your dash switch to defrost (if its coming out of defroster) before pulling the motor out to inspect the shaft and/or possibly doing that repair above, so that when you go to reinstall the motor, it's in the right position for the flap. That way you don't end up causing the motor to go in the opposite direction. You can also pm me with specific questions if you care to.

craig1104 · Post by **craig1104** » 08 Oct 2007, 07:17

Now I am confused as to which damper controls the floor vents.
is it right behind the glove box or off to the left behind the controls?

Craig

Post by **Maxbaby** » 08 Oct 2007, 18:19

If you look at the diagram provided above, I believe you're looking for damper 15 which is what I was referring to, and that is behind the glove box. There are two on either side of the unit in the diagram. When you pull out the glove box insert, it will be almost in line with the left side of the opening of the glove box insert. There will be another one further back and a little harder to see from just that opening. That link above that I included in my last post shows the actual flap for the floor/defrost side of that whole unit, after that damper motor and side of the housing has been removed.

Ivo · Post by **Ivo** » 09 Oct 2007, 15:02

craig1104 wrote:Now I am confused as to which damper controls the floor vents.
is it right behind the glove box or off to the left behind the controls?

Craig

1. Remove the glove box;
2. Remove the black metal cver as described above in one of the postings - it has an yellow stiker for SRS, disregard it bu keep the nuts;
3. Look at the upper left corner - black box hold by 3 screws ( I think they were 3) - you have to remove all 3 of them (or as many as they are)
4. Swithc the blower to 12 and note the position of the splited plastic - try to adjust the position of the plastic end to corespond to the position of the damper shoft or you are goinog to have problme later to install it;
5. Once you finish the above step, find the smallest hose o-ring - the size of the one that is on some of the vacuum lines but use the tipe with a screw head as it is easy to install - do not thight it yet, just slide it over the plastic;
6. Insert the shaft of the damper motor and thighten the o-ring well but make sure the head of the o-ring ins not touching anything else and the shaft rotates free. If you alligned the motor and the plastic end - you should be able to screw the damper motor bolts back without any trouble - if not - you have to play with the control intill it stops under an angle allowing you to reinstall it;
7. Once everything fits nicely, give it a test run - it should be fixed;
8. Reinstall the rest and enjoy

Ivo

craig1104 · Post by **craig1104** » 13 Nov 2007, 13:25

Thanks guys, I took it apart and found the broken item. I glued it and duck taped it together and it works fine. Again, THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!

Craig