reggie,
If you have electric power (voltage) at the relay pin and the pump itself, you should be able to hear the pump running. If it were me, I would want to test the pump directly by jumping from a battery lead to the pump (very briefly, like a few seconds) with the other pump wire grounded. I suggest waiting for others to reply who may be more familiar with the pumps, but personally I don't think a quick test would hurt it. I would not put it in water. I don't understand your last question if you do have power at the pump.
1998 Volvo v70 xc - awd fuel pump issue?
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
1998 Volvo v70 xc - awd fuel pump Fix
Re: 1998 Volvo v70 xc - awd fuel pump issue?
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
- abscate
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You can run it dry, briefly, 10s of seconds, with no worries. Don't put water through it. Don't run gas through it either, though...thats Youtube-able
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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precopster
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A serlies of quick tests may help:
1) run a temporary ground wire from anywhere from chassis to the pump and see if it starts.
2) run a temporary power (12V+) wire from the battery to the pump (fused is preferable) however splice it in around 12 inches prior to the pump for safety.
You want to spend as little time as possible on the above tests soake the wiring asbcourse or rudimentary as possible because you may be dealing with a faulty new pump and you'll have bigger fish to fry if this is the case.
Some of the cheapest meters have piercing test leads (very sharp points) which are great for testing for breaks.
1) run a temporary ground wire from anywhere from chassis to the pump and see if it starts.
2) run a temporary power (12V+) wire from the battery to the pump (fused is preferable) however splice it in around 12 inches prior to the pump for safety.
You want to spend as little time as possible on the above tests soake the wiring asbcourse or rudimentary as possible because you may be dealing with a faulty new pump and you'll have bigger fish to fry if this is the case.
Some of the cheapest meters have piercing test leads (very sharp points) which are great for testing for breaks.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
hi guys,
just replaced my pump, i wanted to add some tips to the thread.
i cut the top part of the panel when doing the pump, in hindsight it would be better to cut the bottom panel because the seat pulls the panel down when attached.
i ended up tack welding the panel back and worked great. if you used fastners, i think aluminum or zinc plated bolts would be better. Inititally before welding i tried stainless steel bolts, but upon further research the bolts would have caused some galvanic corrision to the panels.
just replaced my pump, i wanted to add some tips to the thread.
i cut the top part of the panel when doing the pump, in hindsight it would be better to cut the bottom panel because the seat pulls the panel down when attached.
i ended up tack welding the panel back and worked great. if you used fastners, i think aluminum or zinc plated bolts would be better. Inititally before welding i tried stainless steel bolts, but upon further research the bolts would have caused some galvanic corrision to the panels.
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Ozark Lee
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On the two that I have replaced I did cut the bottom rather than the top for that precise reason.i cut the top part of the panel when doing the pump, in hindsight it would be better to cut the bottom panel because the seat pulls the panel down when attached.
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
I just did the same job. The cutout makes it much easier than dropping the rear end and the tank.
My question is: the fuel level sending unit has two white wires. Does it matter which goes where? I just guessed which went to which, and the gauge appears to read correctly. Would anything go wrong if the wires were reversed?
The fuel pump wires are red and black, so there's no guesswork there.
My question is: the fuel level sending unit has two white wires. Does it matter which goes where? I just guessed which went to which, and the gauge appears to read correctly. Would anything go wrong if the wires were reversed?
The fuel pump wires are red and black, so there's no guesswork there.
I just did this on my 98 xc70 and this thread was infinitely helpful. I did the cut out method for mine as well and I replaced the whole unit rather that just do the pump. The one thing I did different than I've seen here, was actually run the new harness through the corner where I made the cutout through a grommet. Then through the wire loom on that side up to the connectors. I have pics I'm going to try and post. Thanks for the awesome thread everyone!
99 V70xc Darkwing (gone
)
08 xc90 Tabitha
06 V50 T5 Awd 6spd. Skeeter
66 barracuda "very long term project"
08 xc90 Tabitha
06 V50 T5 Awd 6spd. Skeeter
66 barracuda "very long term project"
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configsys
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I have a '00 V70R and I believe the fuel pump is bad but I'll probably just have someone drop the tank. However to save money I see there is a ProParts Sweden model that is $109 compared to the OEM $370. Does anyone have experience using this pump? Also, how do you check the ejector pump and should I replace that as well while we have the tank off?
'16 S60 AWD
'17 S60 (totaled)
'13 XC60 Polestar
'12 S60 T5
'04 XC90 (sold)
'02 S40
'00 V70R
'93 850 GLT (sold)
'13A DICE/VIDA
'17 S60 (totaled)
'13 XC60 Polestar
'12 S60 T5
'04 XC90 (sold)
'02 S40
'00 V70R
'93 850 GLT (sold)
'13A DICE/VIDA
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BriCourbat
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 17 October 2016
- Year and Model: 1998 V70 XC
- Location: Syracuse, NY
The fuel pump was replaced on this vehicle two years ago so the access panel is already cut. This car runs for about 10 seconds and stalls. I'm sure this could be multiple different things but wondering if anyone changed their fuel pump and still had the stalling issue. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Best,
Brian
Best,
Brian
- alpha318
- Posts: 33
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Quick question, what is the purpose of using this style of pump and not an OE one, price aside? Is there a distinct advantage to this kind of fuel pump?dusty wrote: ↑16 Aug 2009, 13:42 I purchased a pump, from highflow fuel systems (http://highflowfuel.com) though ebay last year, brand new 1 year warranty, it was about $80 with shipping. Highflow part number HFFS-340, it wasn't an exact match (shorter by about 1/2") but I needed a running car and long story short, it runs out of gas with around 2 gallons in the tank. I spoke with highflow on the phone and they sent me a replacement under warrenty. The replacement is basically identical in size and shape to the original walbro GRJ 235 and actually for a Dodge Neon SRT (highflow part number HFFS 377H).
Those who say, "Money can't buy happiness", obviously never bought a turbo charged car, or paid a pet adoption fee!
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