What Happen:
- Everything works except interior lights, 2 days prior it passed Safety and Emission inspection only needed both control arms for the front replaced with brand new ones.
-Left my job started right up no issues drove about a mile as I got on the on ramp to the highway I suddenly lost power as if my engine choked or I would of removed the ignition key stepped on the gas but to no avail i made it to the shoulder. Turned off the car puzzled and confused alternator maybe?
-I tried cranking the car and could here a grinding noise hmmm.... bad starter? I got a jump from a stranger and then my friends but nothing. they towed my car with a honda, a piece of me died that day =( hahaha...
What I've Found:
OBDII Codes: P0120// P0500
-Injectors work how do I know i pulled them out turned the ignition and I had fuel come out.
fuel check
-Compression it was working fine I don't know how to check but I assume it should be okay.
Compression maybe?
-no spark checked by grounding spark plug to my engine my spark plug didn't make and arc or spark
What I've done:
-Changed ignition coil when i check the voltage blue wire to ground I get 11.5 volts same as battery charge? should be .7-1.3 right? (Changed my ignition 3 times already all give me the same reading)
-Replaced cam/camshaft sensor tested with multi meter forgot the readings but i can post if it will help diagnose.
-Throttle position replaced reads 1024 ohms when turned off I belive it should be 900-1000 at idle but i don't think 24+ ohms should affect it correct me if i'm wrong.
-VSS (Speed sensor) on the bottom of the transmission was replaced as well ohms on old and new one read about 1800 Ohms? I think it needs to be 200-400 ohms
-Replaced the rpm sensor I thought this was the speed sensor at first sensor on top of transmission tested and works.
-erased all dtc codes from OBDII and P0120 keeps coming back?
I know this is a lot to read thank you for your time any help would be appreciated I know everyone takes time out of there busy lives to help on this forum umm.. I Love this car I put in a custom roof top new seats from v70 and I want to keep it on the road so I can pull the honda next time to redeem myself =)
1995 850 GLT Save My Car - No Start
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Simply_Volvo
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 2 October 2014
- Year and Model: Volvo 850 Glt 1995
- Location: Utah
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JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
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- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
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Ok - 2 things stand out.
The grinding noise ??????
and No start
With the ignition on, we need to see battery voltage on one side of the coil and then a pulsed ground on the other(these are the terminals on the coil next to the ignition wire that goes to the distributor). It sounds like you found the battery voltage on one side (B+) but we need to check for the pulsing ground ( this pulse is what makes the coil fire its energy). Take a test light and hook the clip to the positive lead of the battery, then hook the other end to the ground pulse terminal on the coil ( not the battery voltage one - the other one) . Have a friend turn over the engine and see if the pulse is there ( by checking the test light for flickering).
Let us know.
If the ground pulse is there then the coil, distributor, wires or plugs are at fault. We will go down the line and test until the spark stops jumping .
To rule out the coil pull the coil wire from the distributor and place it very close to a ground ( do not use the battery ground terminal as some batteries vent dangerous gasses). Use the engine or a clean bolt near the coil. You can test if the ground is good by taking your test light ( still hooked to battery positive termial and touching the bolt in question to see if the test light illuminates.
The grinding noise ??????
and No start
With the ignition on, we need to see battery voltage on one side of the coil and then a pulsed ground on the other(these are the terminals on the coil next to the ignition wire that goes to the distributor). It sounds like you found the battery voltage on one side (B+) but we need to check for the pulsing ground ( this pulse is what makes the coil fire its energy). Take a test light and hook the clip to the positive lead of the battery, then hook the other end to the ground pulse terminal on the coil ( not the battery voltage one - the other one) . Have a friend turn over the engine and see if the pulse is there ( by checking the test light for flickering).
Let us know.
If the ground pulse is there then the coil, distributor, wires or plugs are at fault. We will go down the line and test until the spark stops jumping .
To rule out the coil pull the coil wire from the distributor and place it very close to a ground ( do not use the battery ground terminal as some batteries vent dangerous gasses). Use the engine or a clean bolt near the coil. You can test if the ground is good by taking your test light ( still hooked to battery positive termial and touching the bolt in question to see if the test light illuminates.
Retired
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Simply_Volvo
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 2 October 2014
- Year and Model: Volvo 850 Glt 1995
- Location: Utah
Thank you for your reply JDS60R
-I did Try grounding the wire (going from the ignition coil to the distributor) had a friend start the car and did not see a spark.
But I will give it a go tomorrow & I'll post pictures in case I'm doing it wrong. I will also be replacing the pnp switch, I had a bad battery which leaked acid and I'm afraid it could have damaged it and may be part of the problem.
-I did Try grounding the wire (going from the ignition coil to the distributor) had a friend start the car and did not see a spark.
But I will give it a go tomorrow & I'll post pictures in case I'm doing it wrong. I will also be replacing the pnp switch, I had a bad battery which leaked acid and I'm afraid it could have damaged it and may be part of the problem.
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Simply_Volvo
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 2 October 2014
- Year and Model: Volvo 850 Glt 1995
- Location: Utah
Thanks Tryingbe
No haven't checked the timing belt will check it today as well. would that cause no spark?
No haven't checked the timing belt will check it today as well. would that cause no spark?
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JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
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Yes -timing belt being broken would cause many issues including not turning the cam which is where the cam sensor gets its signal. No signal= no spark . This is where the coil pulse ground test is important. If the pulse is there then the belt is turning the cams . ( belt still may have slipped - grinding noise)
Test for the ground pulse and let us know.
Test for the ground pulse and let us know.
Retired
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Simply_Volvo
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 2 October 2014
- Year and Model: Volvo 850 Glt 1995
- Location: Utah
Used a test light to check the pulse
What I found:
Battery is hooked up/ connected and when I tested it while the car was off I had a solid light no pulse when I had my friend turn the key the light went away and I had no pulse, as soon as he took the key out i was back to the solid light. I'm uploading the picture showing where i was testing the positive lead on the battery and the Blue wire which I believe is the one that sends the signal to the coil?
Let me know if i did it right/wrong and I will be checking the timing belt to see if it's broken. Thank you everyone for all the help.
What I found:
Battery is hooked up/ connected and when I tested it while the car was off I had a solid light no pulse when I had my friend turn the key the light went away and I had no pulse, as soon as he took the key out i was back to the solid light. I'm uploading the picture showing where i was testing the positive lead on the battery and the Blue wire which I believe is the one that sends the signal to the coil?
Let me know if i did it right/wrong and I will be checking the timing belt to see if it's broken. Thank you everyone for all the help.
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Simply_Volvo
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 2 October 2014
- Year and Model: Volvo 850 Glt 1995
- Location: Utah
Used a test light to check the pulse
What I found:
Battery is hooked up/ connected and when I tested it while the car was off I had a solid light no pulse when I had my friend turn the key the light went away and I had no pulse, as soon as he took the key out i was back to the solid light. I'm uploading the picture showing where i was testing the positive lead on the battery and the Blue wire which I believe is the one that sends the signal to the coil?
Let me know if i did it right/wrong and I will be checking the timing belt to see if it's broken. Thank you everyone for all the help.
What I found:
Battery is hooked up/ connected and when I tested it while the car was off I had a solid light no pulse when I had my friend turn the key the light went away and I had no pulse, as soon as he took the key out i was back to the solid light. I'm uploading the picture showing where i was testing the positive lead on the battery and the Blue wire which I believe is the one that sends the signal to the coil?
Let me know if i did it right/wrong and I will be checking the timing belt to see if it's broken. Thank you everyone for all the help.
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Simply_Volvo
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 2 October 2014
- Year and Model: Volvo 850 Glt 1995
- Location: Utah
I think we might have found the problem guys
Timing belt was loose and when I pulled it out I had a couple pieces, I will be replacing this today hopefully done by tonight and will be holding off on the pnp switch for the moment.
Really appreciate everyone's help and input very hopeful but I'm not calling it a victory until it purrs and runs.
Timing belt was loose and when I pulled it out I had a couple pieces, I will be replacing this today hopefully done by tonight and will be holding off on the pnp switch for the moment.
Really appreciate everyone's help and input very hopeful but I'm not calling it a victory until it purrs and runs.
- abscate
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Don't move that engine with the belt out!!!
How many miles are on this car?
How many miles are on this car?
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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