PARTS/TOOLS REQUIRED:
1) Hammer (my favourite tool)
2) 25cm (9 inches of submersible fuel hose)
3) Bosch pump 0986 580 979 comes with 2 X quality clamps (other parts in the fitting kit won't be needed)
4) 1 X axle bolt or 10mm threaded rod to push pump out of filter fixture
5) Gauze filter (I used an Aldi shopping bag pre-tested for fuel compatability)
6) High tensile spring 8.6mm wide to be inserted into submersible fuel hose (one of these can be stretched for 2 installations)
7) 10mm and 14mm sockets and ratchet
8 ) 2 X large flat screwdrivers for fuel hatch removal (thanks jimmy57) or suitable tool
9) Pliers
10) Adjustable monkey grips for fuel clip removal
11) Stanley knife (for old plastic hose cutting)
12) Small flat blade screwdriver
13) Scissors (to cut new gauze)
14) Paint brush and vacuum cleaner (to help remove dust/debris before hatch removal and inside pump housing)
15) 32mm ring spanner or ring socket (to locate pump back onto old gauze filter housing)
16) New fuel filter
17) Spare space for item I forgot to mention haha
Of course I removed the seat cushions first by folding them forward and releasing the red clips. Then I pried on the narrow board between the seat backrests and the luggage boards. There are clips that just require prying here. If you don't have the 7 seat option just lift the luggage board up and slide it closer to the tailgate.
Another important step is to disconnect the battery as the connector to the back seat will trigger an SRS code.
- The new Bosch fuel pump for P80 series
- 20141009_211530 %28Large%29.jpg (70.72 KiB) Viewed 1123 times
- Remove the carpet keepers X 2. I used a large flat blade to coerce them
- Pull on this bolster and it will eventually come out
- Remove this connector
- Remove this 14mm bolt in order to remove the large seat backrest
- There are 2 x bungee cords to unclip from the backrest
- Sound deadening material peeled back and finally we can see the hatch. Backrest is upside down in footwell
- Hatch cover removed exposing the pump assembly. The port is very dirty and needs a clean
- The port cleaned up with a paint brush and vacuum cleaner
- I found it easy to press both clips with one of these
- Touche. Engard Dartanion!!
- Finally pulled it out. It doesn't come out easily and is tied to the sender on the other side by wires
- Showing the 2 tabs to depress before removal of the sender resistor (press both in and pull up with pliers)
- Two tabs to press and the sender resistor can be removed
- There are 3 tabs like this around the housing to press in and then pull the pump upwards
- The old gauze filter needs to be removed because in this case I couldn't pry the pump out
- The pump removed awaiting further extraction (notice I have already torn the gauze filter away)
- Forcing the old pump out with a 1999 plus axle bolt (end of pump is metal)
- Pump bodies are both 38mm
- Tops are a very close match
- Ends are near identical
- With good clean Aussie fuel, pumps should last about 60,000kms !! I can now build a sandcastle!!
- Housing assembly after pump removal
- Hmm my wife won't miss this shopping bag
- Place some assembly grease on the tip of the pump inlet and hit the pump onto the gauze housing (gently)
- Please note that the ties are not in their final position to clear the housing
- The original hose can't be removed without breakage. I used a Stanley knife to slice it carefully
- Zip ties @ 5 oclock to the protruding plastic piece
- I used 2 zip ties for safety; hope they last
- Instead of using this much like I first did, it's best to cut the spring in half and stretch it to the length of the fuel hose
- Clamp the submersible fuel line to the new pump
- Insert stiffening spring (you can use twice the spacing I used to have a more flexible hose)
- Fuel sender clicked back in place
- Pump reassembled and ready to be dropped back in
- New pump in and waiting for steel hatch to be fitted
