DIY: Oil Pan/Sump O-Ring Replacement 2000 XC

[andybbrown]

Woohoo! It's like a reconditioned engine.
My story:
I would have saved heaps of time if the lower engine mount behind bolt wasn't on so tight. I couldn't undo it on ramps because of restricted access for a breaker, and because I work on a slope when on ramps it is too high to jack and remove wheel. Also, one of my cheap jacks snapped and that just gave me apprehensions. So I worked on the axle stand versus jack versus giving up scenarios each time moving the car and re-arranging.
I ended up I put it on stands just to loosen that rear mount bolt, then up on ramps again. I raised pan and slid in 2 inch wood (2x3) under that solid square bit near the pulley, and sat the wood between that and the member where mount was. But later, that wasn't quite enough. The two inches raised I could loosen and remove those 10mm bolts up deep in the pan using my 1/4 drive 8 inch long bendy socket, but nearer the end I need about four or five inches up to get the pan out. I raised up with a large floor jack just down the side putting a 6 inch long 3x2 on end up into a housing part of engine just to the side of the pan up there. I raised it to get the pan sliding and wriggling over that silly looking oil pipe suctiony thing. It worked fine though and no danger. Do take the transmission mount off before because it just manages to block a couple of bolts.
All fine. I used Rheinoplast or something anaerobic sealer, rolled it out with a paint roller (forget the mini) and all fine. I left the taller wood in there to fit the pan and bolts. I had a diagram and measured each bolt and marked size on paper.
Only thing I did do wrong was that I ordered some oil cooler hose seals, and I thought they were for the oil cooler to pan. I changed one not two. It needed a bit of stretching to get on but fit well. And it was green like the cooler seals are green. On start up, 'boom', oil splash splash. On the commons of the driveway too. But then, I could see where it was from and fortunately not the pan, but the oil cooler. That seal looked fine but the leak from it was no lie. Luckily, the old one was still in good shape. I reused the oil too of course. It was a little foamy but that is not water related but heat reaction of oil. I started up and some smoke came from rear. More than usual. However, that lasted a short time.
I started at 8:30 but didn't have the mount off and beginning on pan until after 1pm. I blew the seal just before dusk about 5. I test drove and cleaned up by 6:30.
The car has become quite smooth. I changed the angle gear the day before that, and that altered the feel of the box, but the effect of the new seals is quite strong and in conjunction even more.
I enjoy listening to the engine when it warms up on these cold New Zealand mornings. Before, the idle choke would stay on and revs would keep up for a good minute and rattle on. Now, after ten seconds the idle reduces and it's quite quiet. There does seem to be a hiss of vacuum sound deep in there. I think it is a good sound. It's a really smooth ride now, except for the suspension.
Thanks heaps to you. I read your write up and Sykes write-up about 15 times.

[cn90]

Old but excellent DIY!

I want to add a trick I learn from BMW E39 5-series forum. When replacing oil pan gasket, O-rings etc., to avoid aggravation from oil dripping on your face, you should drain the oil the night before!

- Put the car on ramps or jack stands the night before.
- Drain the oil into the collecting pan.
- Have a beer and go to bed.

Next day will be much nicer, much less oil to drip on your face!

[cn90]

Question for the sealant guru: do you apply a bead (version A) or use a paint roller (version B)?

Also: how long do you let the sealant sit in open air before installing the oil sump back in the car?

[erikv11]

Version B but there is way more on there than necessary. It doesn't matter how long you let it sit, it will do nothing at all while it sits in the open air. You can put it on instantly, or wait an hour.

[JimBee]

Having used version B a couple of times, successfully, on the camshaft cap that was my inclination on the sump, as well. But the tech support at Permatex recommended a bead which was seconded by the O'Reilly clerk who also does car repair. Against my better judgment, I used the bead on the pan. I know there's way more on there than needed, but so far (very few miles after repair) there aren't any leaks and I don't expect any because all gaps should definitely be filled and bead surrounded all bolt holes. We'll see.

If I do this again, I will definitely use the foam roller approach because it's neater, evenly covers the complete surface and doesn't needlessly waste sealant.

[gsclark]

I have read and reread all comments and I am still having trouble getting the oil pan past the power steering line and the other line next to the power steering line. It has been written to "zip tie" these off to theside....these lines don't move much and I feel I might break them if I try to move them as far as they need to be moved.
Any suggestions?
Thank you

[Ozark Lee]

I have read and reread all comments and I am still having trouble getting the oil pan past the power steering line and the other line next to the power steering line. It has been written to "zip tie" these off to the side....these lines don't move much and I feel I might break them if I try to move them as far as they need to be moved.
Any suggestions?
Thank you

I remove the bolts that hold their mounting brackets, one back at the power steering rack and the other on the front that ties to the sub-frame. They still don't move "freely" but they will move enough to sneak the sump pan past them.

...Lee

[GaelanSClark]

Mr. Ozark Lee,
I did just that AND I worked as hard as I could to move those lines...just out of the way. Thank you for the info.

Also, I used your guide (many months ago) to fix my control module (?)....where you showed how to pry it open and resolder the points. I was able to do that job perfectly without any experience soldering and the car has been working great ever since. You are a fantastic help and I really appreciate it.

[quietcoolone]

Thanks to your guide i was able to drop the oil pan while cleaning out the PCV system in my daughters 2002 S60 Non-turbo. The process was slightly different on the S60, however moving the power steering line and jacking up the engine (passenger side) were key to my success.
As you can see in the attached photo.. the blue arrow points to a 4" 2x3 block of wood placed under the AC compressor. The yellow arrow points to the power steering line removed from its holding bracket and pushed up and back over the frame.

[mlanctot]

Fantastic write up. it appears that it is now my turn. Ellen's little beast, 2001 V70XC with over 302,000miles, has developed the oil warning light. Our son doesn't want to destroy the engine so its parked in the driveway. It's kinda cool in Connecticut this February. We'll have to move one of the summer cars out of storage and tackle this project this weekend. I never thought that this car would last this long. Alright Volvo!