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99' S80 T6 Cam Seal Replacement/ Oil Leak Repair,Timing,PCV

Everything on the Volvo S80. Sometimes called an "executive car", the S80 was Volvo's top-of-the-line passenger car. P2 platform.
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » S80 T6 Cam Seal Replacement — Oil Leak Repair, Timing, PCV
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xHeart
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Re: 99' S80 T6 Cam Seal Replacement/ Oil Leak Repair,Timing,

Post by xHeart »

Needed.
You would want cam locked after the alignment marks are in sync.
The lock is placed at rear cam seal locations.

There is extra precaution if you are working with VVT.

Replace all tensioners, pulleys, and seals, even those associated with auxiliary belt.
Using proper methods and tools will save you tons.

It is easier to replace the lower radiator hose at this time. Perhaps service and replace parts for cooling and heating.
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Syd_c70
Posts: 15
Joined: 18 November 2013
Year and Model: C70 2002
Location: Sydney, Australia

Post by Syd_c70 »

Thank you Zachary for an awesome post. I have a few questions as I am attempting to service the PCV and run into a few problems taking the manifold off on my 2002 C70 2.3 Turbo convertible.

1) Do I have to remove the oil dipstick to remove the manifold? I have already loosen it.
Oil dipstick.jpg
Oil dipstick.jpg (24.89 KiB) Viewed 1451 times
2) Do I have to remove the coolant line going to the thermostat? Can someone recommend a tool to cut the hose clamp in this tight area?
Hose to thermostat.jpg
Hose to thermostat.jpg (33.19 KiB) Viewed 1451 times
3) How do I remove this hose? I have already cut the hose clamp (permanent type) but it will not budge and I do not want to damage the hose.
Injector hose.jpg
Injector hose.jpg (26.75 KiB) Viewed 1451 times
Thanks everyone.

kaez kaez
Posts: 1
Joined: 8 October 2016
Year and Model: 2001 S80 T6
Location: South Africa

Post by kaez kaez »

Hi zacharyzoosh? this really is great. its rare to find such passion to help others. It makes volvo seem less complecated. I am also not a trained mechanic but i get on with mechanical diy's on the car. i will be trying this out soon as my leak has escallated from a dribble to a gush. A couple of years ago a specialist changed my PCV system because the oil guage kept popping out. That seemed to have sorted my wows until now. The oil guage does not pop out but i have occasionally noticed that it gets sticky when the engine is hot.....mmmmm!

Tropic
Posts: 1
Joined: 17 September 2018
Year and Model: 2000 S80 T6
Location: MI

Post by Tropic »

I know the thread is old but I hope someone can help me. I am the definition of novice but cannot afford $1000 shop cost to replace leaking cam seals.
I am working through step by step and I am at the part that says:

"You’ll need to get your engine cranked over to line up with the timing marks on your cam sprokets and timing cover so that your cams notches (on the back side) are aligned parallel.
Before attaching your cam tool, go to front side of engine, and with the timing cover off, look at the cam sprockets and notice the little marked lines on each sproket/pulley. Crank the engine until the cam marks are pointing upwards together(note: crank CLOCKWISE and ONLY CLOCKWISE with this engine! A little back is okay, but generally since this is an interference engine the official warning is DO NOT crank this engine backwards or counter clockwise at all.) Place the top timing cover back on (if you removed it) because the top timing cover has marks on it also, and you’ll want to align the cam marks to the timing cover marks (see photo)."

This is probably a dumb question but how do you "crank the engine over"? And, how do I know what direction CLOCKWISE is - I mean clockwise facing what direction(driver's side facing passenger side or passenger side facing driver's side) I read that if I loosen the cam sprockets, then I can put the locking tool in place. Do I just need to loosen them in order to "crank the engine over" by hand?

Please help a new guy.

Thanks.

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