1998 V70 T5, Check engine light is on with no codes

[shawnmacananny]

Some pics of it when i had it apart, thats not a scuff on cylinder 4, its just a smudge i think, i cant seem to find the close ups i took at each cylinder at BDC

[shawnmacananny]

I guess there was a scuff on cylinder 4, and a couple tiny pits on the cylinders, i don't remember that, i couldnt find the other two cylinders, thats 3 of them, 1 of them being #4. Maybe i should do a compression test again. I couldnt find a sodium filled valve i spent some time researching and got a good replacement but now i cant find the receipt for the valve to see the brand and part number. It was a stellite valve.i think it was an AE valve 7mm.

Edit - Nevermind those arent pits, those are dirt/fibers from the cloth when i wiped cylinders down with oil.

[Ozark Lee]

Based on the pictures you posted It is obvious that you know what you are doing and further that you do it right. Having oil come out of the dipstick, even without a good O ring shouldn't happen without PCV problems so my guess is that it it coming from somewhere else. I think we can rule our camshaft seals since they are new.

Once real common oil leak on the turbos, and it makes a mess everywhere thus making it difficult to pinpoint, is the oil cooler lines. I have had a couple of them that had pinholes on the bottom side which made the leak itself difficult to see.

...Lee

[shawnmacananny]

Thank you Lee, I'm going to do some reading on the oil cooler lines. I saw some lines running to the bottom of the radiator, i assumed they were transmission lines, i didnt even think to check to see if this had an oil cooler, that very well may be the case if there are rubber oil cooler lines, its coming from the front of the engine, almost looks like the AC compressor is leaking oil, and it is on the rubber hoses up there, but i think they are AC lines, and trasnmisison lines.

I checked around cam sensor and distributor it wasnt wet. I can pull the cam sensor and distributor easy enough double check them. I greased the center of the seals, and lubed the outside of the seal with three bond 1184, to help them slide in then stick better. I didnt pull the timing cover yet but Cam seals, valve cover, head gasket etc all sat atleast a week before it was started to ensure the three bond was dry. plus i was waiting on the PCV components.

[Ozark Lee]

The lines on the right hand side of the radiator that go into sockets on the radiator tank are the engine oil cooler lines and the ones that go into the tank on the left hand side of the radiator are the transmission cooler lines. For whatever reason, the transmission lines don't seem to go bad nearly as often as the engine oil cooler lines. I guess that it is because the transmission lines are so much easier to change.

...Lee

[shawnmacananny]

I looked at a few threads, and tried to take a couple of pictures. I didnt get that great of pics because i wanted to keep the oil off my phone. I am fairly confident the oil cooler lines are leaking, i'm going to try to find them and order them. Thank you again, i didnt even realize there was an oil cooler, and even an oil cooler thermostat? never heard of one of those before either.

[Ozark Lee]

From the pictures I would say that the oil cooler lines are the culprit. The lines in most of the pictures are indeed A/C lines but they have more or less parallel paths with the oil cooler lines and they are about the closest thing to them. The A/C lines themselves rarely leak and even if they do there isn't that much PAG oil in the system.

The OEM replacement lines are insanely expensive (around $125.00 each) but you can rebuild the old lines with hydraulic hoses and hose clamps for a fraction of the cost. There are several good threads and we may have some information in the repair database on repairing the lines. To make things real easy there is a guy that is primarily active over on VolvoSpeed that sells repair "kits" with the hose and hose clamps for not a lot of money. I tried to locally source some bulk hose from Tomkins Industries, which is the big hydraulic hose supplier in my area, and they didn't have anything that fit the Volvo connectors in stock at the parts counter. I'm sure someone will jump in the the supplier's screen name since I can't remember it.

...Lee

[shawnmacananny]

I did some research and ordered some Dayton lines from Amazon, i saw some complaints they didnt fit right being slightly longer at the connecting end, or the wrong sized o-ring, so i ordered volvo orings, but they come with clamps and orings of their own. I will measure the new and old side by side with a micrometer and verify before i install or make the nexcessary changes. The two lines and extra volvo o-rings - just in case, cost me $130 shipped. I figured it was worth saving $100 buying through Amazon as they have an excellent return policy and i can have them here in 2 days. They are just oil cooler lines and shouldnt see much pressure, if they were power steering lines i'd definitely go with EOM volvo. I bet i could have gotten Esco to even repair the lines once i removed them, they make all of the hydraulic lines ive needed for my euipment.

[Ozark Lee]

A couple of suggestions on installing the lines. When you replace the thermostat ends be sure that the sockets are almost surgically clean. They fit in very tight and it is easy to cut an O ring while installing them on that end if there is any dirt at all in the sockets or on the line connector.

You will also encounter difficulty getting the bolt that holds the oil line mounting brackets to the subframe out due to clearance issues. I have found the removing the mounting bolt for the A/C compressor, while a bit of a PITA by itself, greatly simplifies access to the cooler lines mounting bolt .

...Lee

[shawnmacananny]

Thanks! I sprayed the thermostat down with some brake clean - i know not good for rubber lines but im replacing them, and then sprayed down all connections some Kano Kroil, which will help loosen up bolts, lines, and even clean off some of the baked on oil. Do i have to remove the oil thermostat? I saw people saying they did, i ordered a gasket just in case, but mine isnt leaking anywhere around the thermostat so if i dont have a break a seal there, it would be nice. I saw the bracket bolt, i think i can get to it.

Whats the trick on removing the clamps from the radiator? One of mine has a zip tie round it.