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98 V70 non-turbo PCV system replacement

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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E Showell
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Re: 98 V70 non-turbo PCV system replacement

Post by E Showell »

Changing a starter is MUCH easier with the intake manifold out of the way, but yours will probably go for another 20-50k miles before needing replacement. If you have even the slightest suspicion your starter may be on the way out, then change it while you have the intake manifold out of the way.
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98v70dad
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Post by 98v70dad »

[quote="dosbricks] As I recall the one on the lower far right requires a box-end wrench because of obstructed access.[quote]

I was just lookin at my box end wrenches this morning to see if I had one to handle that one bolt. my 12 mm wrench is only about 6 inches long. Will a short wrench like that do or do I need to do something to lengthen the handle a little?

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Post by precopster »

Just be careful with penetrant around paper gaskets like the intake one which can be weakened.

Less is more :roll:
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E Showell
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Post by E Showell »

Whenever I remove the intake manifold for any reason, I replace the intake manifold gasket. Some will contend this is overkill.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT

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dosbricks
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Post by dosbricks »

98v70dad wrote:[quote="dosbricks] As I recall the one on the lower far right requires a box-end wrench because of obstructed access.

I was just lookin at my box end wrenches this morning to see if I had one to handle that one bolt. my 12 mm wrench is only about 6 inches long. Will a short wrench like that do or do I need to do something to lengthen the handle a little?
[/quote][/quote]

Six in. wrench is fine. Not much torque here, and you will have a feel for the 15 ft lb on the other bolts if you have a small 12" beam type torque wrench. Do not use a large 18" ratcheting torque wrench on these small bolts. Too much danger of snapping one off.

As E Showell noted, replace the intake gasket with a new one. Just a few bucks for insurance that you are not going to have to redo.
Last edited by dosbricks on 13 Jan 2015, 15:00, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by rspi »

I have probably pulled 20 intake manifolds and have never needed to spray the bolts with anything.

The tough bolts are the ones in the bottom of the manifold, 12mm. I get them from up top because I have small hands.

Be extra careful inserting the intake manifold bolts. Use car when tightening them so you don't cross thread any of them.
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Post by kahl »

The manifold bolts I have removed are all 10mm. I specifically got a 10mm Snap On flex socket 1/4 drive for the manifold bolts. Works perfectly on the top and bottom bolts. If you remove the throttle body all manifold bolts are exposed. When the manifold is removed you will see that the wiring loom has broken apart. I use 1/4 and 3/8 loom to wrap up the wires.
Attachments
Snap On 10mm flex socket
Snap On 10mm flex socket
Notice wires with missing, cracked loom
Notice wires with missing, cracked loom

98v70dad
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Post by 98v70dad »

Thanks folks. I've already bought a intake manifold gasket. I thought it was a good idea since it didn't cost much and if (when?) i damage the original one I'll have it. The snap on flex socket looks like the right tool for the job. Since I work on cars as a hobby I usually don't buy tools that are that high quality. I'll see if I can find something like that in a non-professional type tool.. The 12 inch beam torque wrench is an excellent idea and i didn't think of that. I don't have one and now is my excuse to go buy one. I have a big clicking type and I never trust it for small fasteners.

98v70dad
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Post by 98v70dad »

kahl wrote:The manifold bolts I have removed are all 10mm. I specifically got a 10mm Snap On flex socket 1/4 drive for the manifold bolts. Works perfectly on the top and bottom bolts. If you remove the throttle body all manifold bolts are exposed. When the manifold is removed you will see that the wiring loom has broken apart. I use 1/4 and 3/8 loom to wrap up the wires.
It looks like the only place near me that I can walk in a buy flex sockets is Sears. Sears doesn't seem have the shallow type. Sears would be ok if it was closer and I knew they would have the item. I've driven the 10 miles before to buy a tool only to find out that they didnt have something I needed because they were out of stock. Northern tools used to carry individual sockets but not recently. Sometimes Napa has stuff but I can't tell by looking online.

Anyhow, I need to pick up the 10 mm and maybe a 12 mm by Saturday. If anyone knows where to get those without having to order online please let me know. Maybe I can get by with a flex adaptor that works with any socket....don't know. You can find those everywhere but they take more room to use. I'm mostly interested in the easiest way and if I have to spend 25 for a couple of sockets to save me an hours work and frustration I'll do it since I'm still saving a bundle by DIY.

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Post by Ozark Lee »

I have always done just fine with a combination of a 1/4" drive ratchet, 10" extension, a 3" extension, a swivel joint, and 10mm deep socket. I use electrical tape on the swivel joint to give it a bit of rigidity to get to the joint on the bottom left.

I just this week bought a set of wobble extensions at Harbor Freight to work on getting a 4L60E transmission out of my Suburban. Based on the way that they worked for that task I am anxious to see how they work on removing an intake manifold. I think they will simplify things a bit since they seem to "aim" better than the swivel joint.

...Lee
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