exhaust emissions lamda reading outside limits

[belskee]

Apologies, was concentrating to much on description and spelling (am dyslexic), reading my posts I can see why this is important though.
Heavy rain tonight so a very brief maf retest with suggested wires, wire 5 is violet but wire 3 is grey with white stripe but got a reading on a 20v setting at 1.6 on idle, at 2000 revs it jumped up to 1.7, back to 1.6 as it returned to idle, 2nd try produced similar reading, got close to 1.8 briefly but does seem to be fluctuating inline with the revs.
The front o2 sensor does have 5 wires going into the harness but 6 pins inside the connector.
I spoke with a mate about the the rear sensor and he has a working 4 wire uni sat in his shed, I've read that these volvo's are funny about these uni sensors but it only needs to work for 1 day, if the rear o2 is dead i'd imagine it would be better than nothing, would this work at all?

[draser]

You should be able to hook up a voltmeter on 10 volt scale and see changes from 0.1 to 0.8 volts for sensor 2. Use ground at pipe then at battery to see if there's a difference. Check also leakage between heater and sensor with conn. unplugged and ohm meter on highest scale. Same for front sensor for leakage.

[belskee]

Thanks draser for your help end reults was a dead sensor and was replaced, missed the retest but mot again today and passed the emmision test (just).

Lucky really as i went for a little run and parked the car up for about 4 hours, started the much colder engine to drive home and was idling really funny, hunting with vibration at the lower rpm's and almost stalling.

After geting the car to settle I drove back and the engine managment light came on with the emission system service message again, pulled up and same bad idling only with an actual stall, again luckily im through the emissions test so I have lea way but somthing is still really wrong, will haft to see what what codes im getting but I vant help thinking its etm or possibly cam related as to the vibrations I felt, thanks again. Jim

[oragex]

I've heard the flexible pipe near the cat has a tendency to leak and the air that gets inside might foul the sensor reading after the cat.

[belskee]

Will have a look/listen today at the flexi then, also going to check plugs/coils.

Emision test results this time round were
1st high idle.
Co: 0.90... should be at or below 0.30 (fail)
Hc: 8... should be at or below 200 ppm (pass)
Lamda: 0.970 should be within 0.960-1.040 (pass)

2nd high idle.
Co: 0.09 (pass)
Hc: 1 (pass)
Lamda: 0.994 (pass)

[belskee]

Got a friend to hold a rag on and off over the exhaust and can confirm no leaks at any stage of the system, turbo has slight misting of oil on the under side I noticed and the funny rattle I have been hearing is 100% from this area and with my friend applying revs my earlier post of it being random was wrong it is rythmic.

I disconnected the battery (to reset) and had a look at the coil packs and the plugs which apart from the plugs having white ish tips, from lean mix mayby? They are clean with no gunk, coil pack seem ok, clean no melting or rusty connections though the wires themselves feeling abit brittle.

I also checked the timing marks for the cams and I think I found a problem, crankshaft pulley mark bang on with the inlet cam mark slightly retarded but just in the upper mark, the exhaust cam with the vvt however is retarded and is on the outside of the upper timing mark, only just but I checked 3 times and is outside of the mark.

I imagine I cant just take the belt off and move it into place, is there anything relating to the vvt I need to do to set the pulley in the right position?

On the plus side after packing up and reconnecting the battery it started up ok with no hunting, eratic idling or vibration so the ecu reset seems to work for now.

[osman]

That model has CVVT so I am not sure the marks are always line up like in a fixed cam position engine. I would wait for an answer from members that have done timing belts/head gasket on CVVT models. They would know if that is normal or not.

[regent]

CVVT or not, the timing needs to be set on sprocket marks, period.
The CVVT only varies the position of the camshaft relative to the cam sprocket.

[belskee]

I agree with regent here these marks are important, I will need the cam locking tool to tackle this properly from what I've read on another thread, also this problem is for another thread too I do believe so will haft to post a new topic I think.

I have though found that this issue can cause the engine system warning message and engine managment light to pop up, I cannot however find any info on whether it can cause the emmision system service message to pop up as well though.

Really do need this car plugged in but a few more weeks till I can, will report in due time and thanks again.

[belskee]

Finally have a fault code be it from an ebay piece of xxxx, no data from the boost but throttle position data and maf all seem fine, the code reads p1133 so its pointing at that front o2 im now thinking.

I will add that few weeks ago I pulled all the plugs and swabbed the inside of the cylinders o get an idea of whats going on, no oil gunk or liquids of any sort but the middle plug wasn't tightend properly to the point I could undo it with fingers, also the tips of all plugs where white from lean mixing.

Something else I should add is the obd port, the wire leading to it isn't stable and power/signal can easily be lost if I fiddle with it, if I play the wire higher up its fine but if I tamper directly behind the port its breaks singal, could this be an issue at all as since I reset the ecu to clear the code and with good signal monitored the fuel/air feed and o2s were working closed loop and car was responding perfectly, but im sure its not over, im now thinking new front o2 as already replaced the rear and new vacuum hoses should be the end of the problem, thanks again for all your help its been spot on