2007 xc 70 replaced front wheel bearing

raquette · Post by **raquette** » 13 Mar 2015, 19:53

thanks for the internet. on another site I saw where the front wheel bearing can be replaced without removal of the half shaft. total job took 2 hours and this was a breeze! push in the half shaft that moves about 1/4 " inward and the bearing bolts are accessible.

quick tip on how to determine which wheel bearing is making noise, if you turn left and noise increases it's the right bearing, and vice -versa. (heavier force on outside wheel of the turning radius).

thanks MVS also!

raquette · Post by **raquette** » 16 Mar 2015, 17:25

This is what I found for torqing the axle center bolt:

Have someone step on the brakes, then apply locktight and insert the driveshaft retention bolt and tighten to 26 ft-lb plus an additional 90 degrees angle-tighten:

Not sure what this means -26 ft lbs plus 1/4 turn??

Post by **abscate** » 16 Mar 2015, 18:36

Be careful pushing that shaft in. I broke the inner cage doing this when I did my wheel bearing.

The wheel bearing bolts are really tight, make sure you can get the tool on fully, as you don't what to strip them.

To torque, you take the bolt tension up to 26 foot pounds with a smooth single motion like always. Now look at the hex head. Ypu want to tighten it so that the bolt rotates by one point on a hex. Mark it with a sharpie, the turn. Now move that same point 1/2 of a hex.

Since each hex is 60 degrees turn, you have turned it by 1.5x60 or 90 degrees.

90/360 is 1/4 of a turn!!

Post by **oragex** » 16 Mar 2015, 23:22

raquette wrote: Not sure what this means -26 ft lbs plus 1/4 turn??

That's right. It's how 'stretch' type bolts are tighten. Normal bolts are tighten with a torque which allows the material to remain elastic (the normal state for metal). Stretch bolts are tighten with a higher torque that makes the metal go slightly into a plastic state (permanent deformation). When metal goes in a plastic state, the metal is approaching the rupture point. This is why these stretch bolts, such as the driveshaft and the wheel bearing bolts need replaced with new ones - old ones cannot be torqued to the specified torque or they will snap or develop fractures.

raquette · Post by **raquette** » 17 Mar 2015, 19:44

got it thanks

Post by **SuperHerman** » 19 Mar 2015, 14:36

If you do not have a helper, the other option is to take out center cap, install wheel, lower to ground, torque to spec, raise and remove wheel, replace center cap and re-install wheel.

You can eyeball the 1/4 turn, which as stated before is 90 degrees. Tighten to 26 ft lbs and then add 1/4 of a turn or 15 minutes, looking at it like a clock.