Fix a Volvo flip/switchblade key - DIY, pics and advice

[Loompia]

If i gave you $50 would you do this for me? Thanks!

[bigk]

Thanks Song Huang for this outstanding complete DIY topic. I am sure many people pay over 300 bucks / 150 quids to get a fixable key like this at the dealer. When people are still thanking you 5 years after you post a topic like this it means it is a darn good one. =)

I did the repair (with a couple alternatives) I will share here the details in order to build on your great repair.

Here is the kit I purchased for $4.22 USD: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251877616896

The parts I threw away on this kit are the friction ring and the phillips 0 screw. I reused the originals here (Torx 8 screw, longer) just because the usual whatever is OEM volvo, keep until it breaks.

Since I didn't have a razor saw handy I used a rotary tool with a cutting disc. I used your cut pattern to figure out where the transponder was located.

Winding process
For those who are struggling with the "winding process" (excluding the transponder and epoxy part), the way it worked best for me once the spring and button are in place was to:
• turn the button counterclockwise until I felt the button 'hang on' to the spring
• then, with the key blade in place in the open position, rotate the button until it lines up with the key
• then rotate it 360 degrees and hold it in the keyblade
• Hold it from the lower part of the button that lines up with the blade with your finger tip (not the one my priers are not, see picture)

Winding pic 1

• Pass a pencil with a pink eraser through the hole
• (the tricky part) hold on the top part of the button with the pink eraser

Winding pic 2

• then you can easily slide the top case part in place into the bottom of the case (see picture)

No epoxy and willing to waste some time?
The other thing I did not have was the black epoxy. Instead, I did something I don't recommend to those who want a clean good looking internals solution: I made a retaining ring with a old thumb tack I found lying around. To make it fit I had to shape it and had to dig into the keyfob cover material to make it close properly. Pictures below are self explanatory. The key cover wall is really thin now. I definitely recommend Song's method!

Thumb Tack Ring

Thumb Tacks

Rotary tool tip to dig polymer materials

Immobilizer
When I tried to start my car, it didn't work and I had a "start prevented" message. Don't panic if you get that! All there is to do is to reset the immobilizer. To do this, simply lock and unlock a total of 5 times.

Good luck to the others willing to execute this repair!

[bigk]

Thanks Song Huang for this outstanding complete DIY topic. I am sure many people pay over 300 bucks / 150 quids to get a fixable key like this at the dealer. When people are still thanking you 5 years after you post a topic like this it means it is a darn good one. =)

I did the repair (with a couple alternatives) I will share here the details in order to build on your great repair.

Here is the kit you can get for $4.22 USD: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251877616896

The parts I threw away on this kit are the friction ring and the phillips 0 screw. I reused the originals here (Torx 8 screw, longer) just because the usual whatever is OEM volvo, keep until it breaks.

Since I didn't have a razor saw handy I used a rotary tool with a cutting disc. I used your cut pattern to figure out where the transponder was located.

For those who are struggling with the "winding process" (excluding the transponder and epoxy part), the way it worked best for me once the spring and button are in place was to:
• turn the button counterclockwise until I felt the button 'hang on' to the spring
• then, with the key blade in place in the open position, rotate the button until it lines up with the key
• then rotate it 360 degrees and hold it in the keyblade
• Hold it from the lower part of the button that lines up with the blade with your finger tip (not the one my priers are not, see picture)

Winding Process 1

• Pass a pencil with a pink eraser through the hole
• (the tricky part) hold on the top part of the button with the pink eraser
• then you can easily slide the top case part in place into the bottom of the case (see picture)

Winding process 2

The other thing I did not have was the black epoxy. Instead, I did something I don't recommend to those who want a clean good looking internals solution: I made a retaining ring with a old thumb tack I found lying around. To make it fit I had to shape it and had to dig into the keyfob cover material to make it close properly. Pictures below are self explanatory. The key cover wall is really thin now. I definitely recommend Song's method!

Finished product with ring

rotary tip used for removing polymer material from cover

For the youngsters that don't know what thumb tacks are. Or for the folks who like to reminice it used to cost 49 cents.

When I went to try my key after the fix, it wouldn't start and display message "start prevented". If this happens to you, don't panic. Simply lock and unlock the car with your remote 5 times total. What this does is restart your immobilizer so that it can recognize your transponder again.

Good luck with those who attempt this little tricky repair!

[matthew1]

Thanks BigK!

[rjS60Turbo]

My problem is with a converted straight key to a flip key on my 2002 S60 turbo. It used to work fine but recently it stopped working and of course I switched the battery out and that didn't make much of a difference but it's been hitt this and then recently it stopped I bought a new case and then it worked for a while but then that we work for about a month. any thoughts?. I thought maybe it was when I had some LED lights in the tail but I've since replace those. Thanks. Also the original transponder key number to works fine.

[pierremcalpine]

I did mine this morning...at least the disassembly part. A doner fob is on its way in the mail. Here's a video of my experience although more that sufficient info is already available in the invaluable thread!

[ggleavitt]

I have done this 3 times now, and have purchased a couple of donor keys because I never seem to get the "fix" to last longer than about 6 months before the case splits. Super glue, epoxy, surface prep or not, eventually they all separated.

Had some hardware around and put in a little torx threaded screw. When you have the case halves open, you'll see where you can get a hole put in for a screw to fit without disturbing the transponder. This fob is still working fine after close to 3 years (fixed well before the original photos were uploaded)- https://photos.app.goo.gl/yXdwL7wrtuboD4K02

I don't cut the donors open, I split them very gently with a largish screwdriver. I found that gave me more original surface area for adhesion when I put things back. I added some photos of prepped key cases (bought a couple for practice), they just need the hole drilled for a screw and the transponder dropped in (I use a dab of silicone now) plus key, a return spring, washer and the metal button to reassemble.

[precopster]

Info's far too important to leave to a 3rd party for hosting. Thanks for sharing!!

[ggleavitt]

Did another key swap last night, same old issue with glue delamination on the case halves. I used the donor in the bottom middle photo (above) for the replacement.

That little screw is holding everything together extremely well, so much so that I'm going to try just putting clear silicone in the case this time. My hope is that the inevitable flexing at the key/case interface when the key is twisted to start the car can be mitigated by the silicone instead of using a hard adhesive that will eventually split.

One issue I had with this replacement was that the transponder area had some overflow superglue from where I had tried to re-glue the case halves in place. I mention this only to reiterate that the transponder is made of glass and you'll need to be particularly cautious (and patient) with easing it out. I put super glue remover in the space to get things to soften up and let it sit for an hour or so, using a sharp thin blade to ensure the glue had separated from the transponder. Took a while to get it out.

I'll update the next time I do a swap, can use this post as the timeline to see how long the latest case replacement will have lasted.

Edit 030819, add photos-

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Not bad for a 14 year old key...

[precopster]

This may work long term. I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel and scored the casing quite deeply on the critcal areas. Then used JB Weld to glue. The theory is greater penetration and surface area.

I had to glue in 2 stages to avoid the epoxy running. Permanent black marker finished it off.

I'll use it and report back in a month ( if it lasts that long)