98 v70 engine mounts maybe worn out

[98v70dad]

My NA v70 with just under 130000 miles has started some new vibrations and sort of an odd hesitation with very brief wobble feeling around 40 to 50 mph. It's sort of like the engine is squirming around a bit as the transmission shifts and then settles back down. It's almost not noticeable, but it's there. It just started a few days ago and I'm wondering if it's any of the 4 engine mounts or possibly the transmission torque strut. They are all old and to my knowledge none of them have never been replaced. When I get a chance I'm going to look at them and determine the condition.

So a couple of questions 1) is any one of these more prone to wearing out than the others? 2) is it best to just replace them all anyway or just get them as they fail? 3) volvo OEM parts are really expensive, but I've read aftermarket rubber parts for the volvo generally don't last long ....recommendations? OEM or what aftermarket brand?

[scot850]

Most likely culprits in order are:

1) The mount under the crank pulley. These are metal bonded to rubber and they deteriorate and the metal and rubber part ways. It will cause what you are feeling and vibrations.
2)Next is the top mount or torque mount from the top of the engine to the bulkhead. Look closely at it and try to move the engine. Look for cracks in the rubber which eventually allow the engine to move when they fail.
3)The other 3 mounts are less prone to fail, but at this age any or all can. Depending on the car, there is one at the front, one at the rear of the engine mounted to the sub-frame. some cars have one just inside the LH wheel arch on the transmission, and there is another torque mount under the engine between the engine and trans. Looks like a buckle.

In terms of quality, I prefer to use OE, but others may suggest other brands. Don't use URO/APA.

The top torque mount is a little more challenging on a 98 V70 as the bracket it is in is a pain to remove. IF you have a Volvo specialist around, they may be able to fit it in situ. You could try it yourself is you like a challenge and cut the old one out and then pull a new one in using threaded rod and large washers and nuts.

Neil.

[98v70dad]

I also have a new very slight vibration / noise at higher speed when accelerating also. It is subtle. I didn't mention it because I don't think its related, but it might be considering the fact that it showed up about the same time as the rumble-wobble.

I'll have to find a video that shows how to replace the torque mount bushing on top. After looking at it I determined that it isn't obvious? On my old Camry it took about 5 minutes. It looks like the Volvo engineers managed to make it difficult or at least challenging.

[98v70dad]

Thanks for the info scot850.

[BEJinFbk]

Front mount under the pulley could account for
all of the symptoms that you've described.
I'd suggest starting with it.

[charleskennedy23]

I just did all five of mine…

1) Bushing up top… If that is bad it's pretty easy to spot. IPD makes a poly bushing that looks easy to install. DO NOT BUY THE PRO PARTS SWEDEN POLY BUSHING!!! Total PITA to get in! I had to grind it down with a Dremel to get it to fit. Good news for me is that it will last forever.
Cost for IPD bushing is $26.95… this is what I would do if I did it again.

2) Mount on the passenger side under the crank pulley… If you have not replaced it before, then its probably bad. Pretty easy job and the part is reasonably priced. I got mine from FCP. Febi part number FEB-26193 ($34.99). Since its FCP it comes with a lifetime warranty.

3) Front mount… Fairly challenging but doable… I'm not a great mechanic by any means and I pulled this off. I used Pro Parts Sweden part number PPS-62434435 from FCP ($34.99). Part is good, but after my experience with the top bushing I'm pretty skeptical of anything PPS. I probably would't go with PPS again, but it does come with FCP's lifetime warranty so if the part craps out at least I can get a credit for a better part.

4) Rear mount… This is the hardest one of the bunch. I used Meyle part number MEY-5146800000 from FCP ($68.99). This one is the hardest of the bunch. Again it's doable but it's a fairly challenging job. Good news is that there are lots of good write-ups and videos on how to do this job and I used them ALL to get it done!

5) Lower transmission mount… This is the easiest of the bunch. I initially went with the PPS poly mount, but the vibration was causing a weird rattle somewhere in my car. I sent it back to FCP and got the OEM brand (not blue box). It was a hutchinson mount which they do not have listed on their web site (FCP part number 524822). Rattle went away after putting in the Hutchinson mount and car idles much better than it did than with the poly mount (although the poly mount probably performed marginally better once the car got moving). I couldn't live with the vibration of the poly mount, but some people can. PPS ploy mount is cheaper and probably will last forever. Hutchinson mount was more expensive ($39.99) and will wear out at some point. But again FCP lifetime warranty will take care of any issues I have with this part.

In my case I knew that the upper bushing, the passenger mount, and the rear mount were bad because I had a volvo mechanic inspect the car and recommended replacing those mounts. I just decided to go ahead and do all of them at the same time. Parts cost for all of it isn't crazy.You are looking at just over $200 for all five mounts. I would just go ahead and do all of them if they have never been done. You car is a '98 like mine… 16 years out of a set of motor mounts is fair.

good luck! If you need some advice when you go to replace the mounts let us know. I definitely learned a lot when I did mine.

[98v70dad]

I just did all five of mine…

3) Front mount… Fairly challenging but doable… I'm not a great mechanic by any means and I pulled this off. I used Pro Parts Sweden part number PPS-62434435 from FCP ($34.99). Part is good, but after my experience with the top bushing I'm pretty skeptical of anything PPS. I probably would't go with PPS again, but it does come with FCP's lifetime warranty so if the part craps out at least I can get a credit for a better part.

4) Rear mount… This is the hardest one of the bunch. I used Meyle part number MEY-5146800000 from FCP ($68.99). This one is the hardest of the bunch. Again it's doable but it's a fairly challenging job. Good news is that there are lots of good write-ups and videos on how to do this job and I used them ALL to get it done!

I reviewed some videos last night and also have read the comments here and it sounds/looks like the front and rear mounts are a minor pain (mPITA) to replace and the other ones are pretty easy. The front and rear mounts also look pretty massive and simple. I would guess that they would last a lot longer and have fewer failure modes. So, I may replace the easy ones first....front passenger under crank pulley, transmission and top torque mount and get the other two later. I think the torque mount might be easier if you remove the attach lug at the firewall so you can remove the entire strut and have easy access to the bushings.

[mika]

I might as well chime in as I had the notorious "vibration" at idle.

Basically, repeating what everyone else said: change the mounts that are easy/bad/easy to reach and most likely they will solve your issues. It did for me. Top one wiggled (by the airbox) so the poly mount was a clear choice from IPD: no press needed, just a mallet and 30 minutes. The next one I tackled was the real source of my severe vibrations. Its the one by the crank pulley (pull pass wheel). Few bolts and it comes right out, and then you jack the oil pan up with a jack and piece of wood to hold it into place. MY ENGINE WAS SAGGING 3 INCHES! The mount collapsed, it "floats" in air to buffer out the engine vibration. In my case, the vibration was being transferred to the subframe. This one was a "pleasure" to replace, as it was straightforward, cheap, and very very dramatic difference. Here are pictures of the old and new mount I was just talking about. Robert has a video up on his channel. I got a cheap URO part off ebay for 19 bucks and it is holding up for now.






That being said, I did not touch the "front" pillow mount by the starter, nor the rear one that you see by the exhaust manifold (on my 850). I had a shop do them in my v70 before, and it was not only expensive, but the old ones ended up being OK (at 170k miles).

[rspi]

I would suggest replacing the 2 common mounts if both are warn. If you use cheap after market mounts, they will likely not be as comfortable as the OEM Volvo mounts. There are good after market mounts out there. If you don't like vibrations or rattles, STAY FAR AWAY from poly.

I recently made a home made press for the upper torque mount bushing. Maybe this will help. With the press you can replace that bushing in about 30 minutes.

[98v70dad]

Thanks for the additional info. I've read more than one place that the poly bushings cause a lot of vibration. Engine mounts are "tuned" to eliminate vibration. The tuning is based on the stiffness of the bushing material. Poly material and the original material are different so its not surprising that the poly bushings change the damping characteristics of the engine mounts. So, I won't be using the poly ones.

I haven't accomplished any of these bushing replacements EVER, but It seems to me that lubricating the bushing a bit would greatly ease getting it in. The silicon grease they sell to lube up o rings for plumbing won't attack or break down the rubber. Cool homemade bushing press, RSPI!